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89CAL

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Everything posted by 89CAL

  1. 89CAL

    Oil leak

    89CAL replied to Shyboy's topic in General Maintenance

    Is it a track car? If not get a standard pump not an N1 Its easy to think because its a flash 'NISMO' pump its going to be better but not the case for driving around town. The N1 pump is designed to work at higher RPM
  2. 89CAL
    Its well documented that if it doesn't work with the timing loop wire, you use a spark plug lead between cyl 1 plug and coilpack and use the timing light off there
  3. 89CAL
    Wow
  4. 89CAL
    Why don't you pull the head and find out instead of getting people to guess in an online forum Compression. Results that low mean something is def wrong so I wouldnt bother searching for a reason to pull the head beyond that
  5. 89CAL
    I thought it would be pretty obvious (as it shows you where the other hose (for other turbo goes) Looks like it goes to the turbo inlet hose, as it should being the BOV recirculation line
  6. 89CAL
    Did you ever check the old engine with a known working gauge (fitted externally)? Seems a bit crazy to change an engine because you THINK there is no oil pressure
  7. 89CAL
    FYI Supercheap auto sell non load dependant flasher relays. Thats what I have in mine with no issues
  8. 89CAL
    Any updates?
  9. 89CAL
    I dare say the cold Canadian climate puts much less stress on the coils
  10. 89CAL
    Stock ECU? That will be alot of your problem if you are putting different AFM's in the car. The ECU is not designed to run anything but the AFM it came with unless you change the ECU Also, how are you testing the voltages? Using a multi meter the wrong way can sometimes give the opposite results to what is expected. I'm not trying to be mean, just have to ask these questions. I'm still convinced that if you are on a stock ECU your problem is the non-stock AFM though
  11. 89CAL
    If you can't find any info on yellow jacket coil-packs dying on these forums, I'm sorry to say you obviously haven't searched hard enough
  12. 89CAL
    Is the problem noticeable at idle? If so, pull coilpack plugs one at a time while idling. Listen for a note change as you pull the plug. If there is no note change or a less pronounced note change one one, then chances are that is your dud coil (if that is indeed the problem)
  13. 89CAL
    They are just pipes arent they........
  14. 89CAL
    Nice. Good timing seen as I only just messed with mine and could give you half an idea haha
  15. 89CAL
    It should still start as long as it is 'around about' in the same spot. First things first, I would check the keyway in the CAS is still there. If this is gone then you can be out easily by putting the CAS back on with the shaft a tooth or more out. If this is O.K then check anything else you have pulled off. Have you left the ignitor unplugged? Something silly like that. Have you pulled a plug to confirm you are getting spark?
  16. 89CAL
    Then id suggest not lowering it any more
  17. 89CAL
    Doesnt it need power before cranking to prime the fuel pump and power the ECU? Or have I misunderstood what you mean?
  18. 89CAL
    Is it a street car?
  19. 89CAL
    I think it should be $40 cause I gave you the answer and you still bet against it ?
  20. 89CAL
    BTW, I take cash or cheque
  21. 89CAL
    Pretty sure the $20 is mine. I was first in with starter motor [emoji108]
  22. 89CAL
    There is no real issue with removing them as long as you understand that everything behind them will be more exposed to the elements. Mine leaked water through a grommet into the footwell so when it rained my right foot got wet. My inner guards are in for this and other reasons. Out of curiosity, what wheels do you have that are rubbing? My 19s and current 18s dont rub unless I am turning hard and hit the brakes or hit a bump
  23. 89CAL
    Funny, i just plated with mine the other day Mine just had some crap on it that was sticking when it passed through the seatbelt extender (or whatever you want to call it) That panel is fairly easy to pull off. There is 1 screw somewhere in the middle and the rest is clips. Get a trim remover tool (super cheap sell a little kit of blue plastic ones) and pull the clips out to avoid damaging them. I took the bolt out of the top seatbelt carrier but cant remember if that was exactly necessary So mine was only catching in the top, the retracting part was fine. Easy test for this is to grab the seatbelt below any of the parts it passes through and pull it to see how free it is. I cleaned my seatbelt with wax and grease remover then wiped it with some interior trim cleaner/shine
  24. 89CAL
    A quick search shows that they work on either 25 or 26. Link
  25. 89CAL
    I think they are classed as a 'life of the engine' part, as above, no designated working life. If you were really worried, why didn’t you call or email ACL and ask them?
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