89CAL

For me - that you spent $20k on an engine with no internals, with all jokes aside im assuming means no forged bits etc.....

$20k on engine and no internals? Im confused.....

What car? And what car did the new engine come out of? (Or are you adding a turbo to your engine?)

Oh dear...... Probably should read things before you post them.....

Are those cam cover seals any different to normal? Thought they might be vitton etc so possibly a little better than stock

Seen as it gets its info from the CAS i dare say thats not the problem. Fairly sure there will be a wiring issue between the tach and ECU

Personally id rather wear the cost of the MLS, buy a genuine one and have him fit that. Still cheaper than doing it all over again You might be lucky but the stock gasket is def more forgiving

It sounds like you have something else wrong. You are only able to adjust the relief. Oil will not reach this pressure at idle and you should not be taking that long to get the oil temp up

I dont understand how the cooler piping could be around the wrong way? Airflow in, airflow out. Makes no difference which way it goes

Yeah 100% agree with this. There are usually pretty specific roughness ratings required for a good seal on an MLS. Dont just assume that MLS are always better. Std gasket will be fine by the sounds of what you are after. If you build an engine from the ground up, thats the time to think about MLS. ARP head studs are a better idea.

God damn street racers

I dont really see a problem here. Cold oil is thicker so you will run higher pressure until it warms up. As far as I'm concerned, 60psi at full revs is far too low. Mine runs around the same oil pressure when its warm, im not sure why yours is so high when its cold. Simple fix - dont rev it until its warm. Im guessing you have an oil cooler? Does it have a thermostat in the system? Sounds like it doesnt. My oil gets up to temp after about 5-10 mins of light driving

The cams have grooves cut in them for this reason. Should be able to remove the head with cams in place, just have to rotate them to the right spot

If you remove the spring you will have no pressure....

I believe you can add or remove shims. I'm not sure why you would want it as low as 60psi at full revs though You have to take the sump off to get to the relief

Eh.... sell the SSQV I think the pipes have different mounts but not sure

Jump another car to it and run both then try again. This should eliminate alternator or battery

Is the evaporator clean so air can flow through it freely?

Why didnt you just get your turbo highflowed? Bolts back in the same + more durable. I know you were trying to do it cheap but im guessing now you are seeing why buying things off Ebay and trying to make them work isnt the best idea

Ahh i just went to whatever R34 GTT book came up.

Does this help?

So was the real problem here that the car was not making boost?

What is this cam you speak of? I thought they were gerotor pumps For what its worth: I started my car when I bolted my new engine in and did all my running checks and had a small play with the tune (all up about 30mins of running) and had forgotten to fill the system with oil. That was about 5 years ago. Pump is still in my car working no problem. They are fairly durable it seems I might see what would be involved in doing a DIY refurb. I have a spare one at home

Wrong way round. More of a rubber seal between the two halves and metal between the head and manifold The NA gaskets are paper or similar

Or.... NPC also do a twin plate that I'm told (and I know it means nothing unless its first hand experience) feels like a stock clutch Looking at close to $2000 from memory however. but the local support is really good. They have been great whenever I have had to deal with them