89CAL

Both the fittings from the cam cover to the catch can then a line from the catch can to the intake. So instead of teeing them at the cam cover fitting (factory setup) they are teed in the catch can Bit hard to see in the photo but can kind of see it

1st step is by an aftermarket ECU

Having to unplug the TPS to start it suggests that there is something wrong in the tune. The TPS is part of the reference for what cell of the tune the car is in so i would say unplugging it puts it in the "right" cell to start or puts it in some sort of default. Would take it to a good tuner. If there is only an issue at startup, it cant be anything to majorly wrong with the TPS

There was a site you could buy all the different connectors from. I cant remember it unfortunatly. Im not much help lol

Is this helpful? Its for an RB26 though as my manual must be for an s2 gtst (no ignitor pack)

What is the problem specifically? You can buy the harness from the plug to the light FYI For about $25 each Replaced mine a while ago

If you have a VIPEC you can watch the TPS voltage on your laptop. You can also do a TPS calibration with the VIPEC software. You should be able to see if is seeing the throttle at 0% closed and 100% at Wide open throttle. If this is the case it wont need calibrating Take it back to your tuner?

Kill switch? Are people putting these in cars now?

Electric supercharger was unplugged?

There are several needle roller bearings in the gearbox. If its only reverse I would say it is to do with the idler gear

Its not just the noise the gearbox makes in reverse? Mine howls pretty loud if i go in reverse fast enough.

It might be too lean on idle. RB's usually like a little more fuel at idle the stoich

92425-70T00 Bought one for mine a while ago. Looks like it was about $30 from Amayama back then Not a GTR but cant see them being any different. Mine is just 2 x plastic joiners on a metal bracket Check on here: http://jp-carparts.com/nissan/partlist.php?maker=nissan&type=80&fig=278D&part=9242570T00&page=1

Wow, read things before you post them. I cannot make any sense from this

Remove intermidiate shaft?

The check valve on an RB25 is in the oil cooler not the block I thought the standard restrictors had check valves but guess not. As I said previously, I never gave it a second thought. 5 years later and my head is still fine As for the above about rotating the cams etc. And there being score marks - something else is going on there. I rotated mine several times while building my engine and no marks/scoring Engines are not that fragile that they will die after 2 seconds without oil (at idle) on startup. Have you ever watched how long it takes for oil pressure to come up after doing a service?

Yeah pretty simple, Whatever got a vac/boost signal off the original manifold, is going to need one on the new manifold To make it simple: - Boost Gauge - Fuel pressure reg - Carbon canister - (Pretty sure) the last one is a larger nipple for the PCV

My stock oil restrictors were check valves from memory. I pulled them out and put smaller restrictors in as per the guide floating around and havent had any issues with it though

It will be a short accross the wiring i would say. The boost gauge reads by sending power to a sensor, getting a signal back (in a voltage) and the third wire is ground If you think about it like this, most 3 wire sensors share the same principal, 5v in, 'x'v out and 5v - 'x'v to ground So it sounds like either you have picked a wrong wire somewhere or there is a short from the 5v to the signal wire. So the gauge will always be reading max Have you got a multimeter? Check the voltage going to the gauge (i will assume its 5v or 12v depending on what voltage it uses) now work back to the sensor and see if it has 5v out. You can also unplug the sensor and test to see if it is the sensor plaing up (e.g. if you get 5v out of the signal wire with the sensor plugged in and 0v with it unplugged it may indicate a sensor fault) Check all the wires and see if what they are reading makes sense

Isn't that a fusable link?

Touche Now that you mention it i do remember these Disregard my comment

Your not the first person to do this. Im sure its not as hard as he is making out. I would take above advice He is contradicting himself and in my opinion whenever someone is doing that, they arent real sure what they are doing

I think the offset you needed on the back was +32. I have the same size wheels with 265's on mine and fit fine. I rolled my guards because i had to do the fronts anyway and have normal camber rates Trying to share photo but I cant on my phone for some reason You could always stretch smaller tyres on?

Personally I like having easier access to parts of the top of the engine and I think it does look a lot better In saying that, there are better mamifolds out there. If you were serious about getting a real performance gain I would shop around. And it is quite a pain to do the initial fit up of the GREDDY manifolds, especially if you don't have a fitting kit Just some food for thought

Im a bit conused by this. Why not by a NEO RB25 head? There are definetly ways to keep VCT and go solid. Im just a little confused as to what the problem is and why he cant find some valve springs that will work