Duncan

good point, actually I put an rb26 in the stagea the other day, but it didn't go any faster? But I feel like I'm in the wrong thread.

Am I the only one that doesn't understand the question?

umm the pads are the same as the AP 6 piston calipers so pads are readily available from most brands - they just aren't cheap!

I thought it was about normal for race pads; after all it costs less than a single semi slick racing aint cheap, even when you are trying to do it cheap. I'd guess anyone that sells those kits could probably source the pads, but Just Jap might be the only ones who actually have them in stock.

epic prophecy!

I got the race pads from Just Jap, and while it was a while ago I think they were about $500.

if there is a clunking noise when you apply or remove power, and you've just shimmed the diff, by far the most likely reason is the backlash is not set properly. Are you confident you followed the right procedure there?

I got them from Just Jap. I would guess that ATTKD brand is from the same source as D2, Ksport etc

As per my earlier post (#2), I run the "race" pads and they are fine. They are certainly a more serious pad than A1rm which are a heavy street/light track pad, not a race one.

you can overtighten them like any nuts but they are much more likely to be under tight If you aren't confident in how tight they should be either get a mechanic to do a quick check (should be free) or use a torque wrench to make sure you don't go too far. Hopefully whatever the new knock is can be found....but maybe stay out of potholes?

the 32 and 33 series 1-2 parts are superseded so you can only buy the series 3 r33 stuff now anyway. I'm not sure exactly what is and is not included, I just had it all changed across when the box was rebuilt (by Award, the guys Adam mentioned)

A common place for a knocking noise is the top mount of the shock. Did you reuse the factory mount or did the shocks come with new top mounts (either bush or pillowball/rose joint). Also is the shock top nut tight?

yum. I saw a genuine, unrestored gt-r just the other day on a hoist at just jap. If you have the right sort of budget you should talk to someone like them because the sales for those sorts of car happen privately not via auctions.

because you've personally killed them all! sorry I am no gearbox expert but with the GTR box I do know there were changes for the last series (series 3 r33), and that the old design was made obsolete. Since the internals are similar/the same are there any series 3 changes you can apply to your box? BTW great to hear the old girl is still hustling around tracks nicely

good luck tomoz!

sorry for the slow response....it must be frustrating getting stuck at this bloody spot! Basically I would get a pry bar (maybe very small at first, maybe even a screwdrive if the fit is very tight) into the area pictured. The end of the drive shaft and the bronze coloured steel shield come out together, so get the bar underneath that bronzy disk and start prying. As it can require some force be careful.....levering stuff out is a really good way to hurt yourself when it does finally let go! Or, since you have the cap off, in the diff centre as pictured are 2 small spider gears, the end of the driveshaft is inside the spider gear and you should be able to get something in there to pry it out too....the pic doesn't really show it because you are looking straight on, try looking from the right side back to the left and you should see the end of the shaft. Failing all that....whereabouts are you? I'm actually in Canberra tomorrow night and can give you a quick hand if you haven't won....

It wasn't really a slapper because I did go a forged bottom end....but I did reuse the original stagea head without refreshing and it has about 300,000klm on it now. getting a bit smokey on deceleration but still makes the same power it always did (250awkw)

I am not certain that r34 is the same, but on 32-33 it is possible to remove it without removing the diff cover (bit late now!). You can pop the driveshaft out even if the circlip is in place using a pry bar. The other end is trickier, I've found the easiest is to remove the lower control arm at the ball joint at the hub.

I like that style of set Eric, and almost went with one for easy use at the race track. but I couldn't find a good quality kit that was metric only....damn seppos.

thanks Jayson Jimmy I did the rear diff 10 years ago The diff(erence) is that rebuilding the standard rear is fine, and as it is used more often is likely to be a bigger difference. In the front the quaife LSD is a particularly good option because will power understeer less than a normal mechanical diff, but it's not a priority unless you are genuinely getting wheel spin at the front wheels.

It's motorsport....it is about times. which is why drift is not motorsport

because $AUD has fallen 15% in the last 3 months Looks like the just jap prices are good, maybe they would discount a little for a couple of them

hmmm I was about to pick up one too.....if someone gets a good group price I'd be in.

what! I was undercover! who wants to be spotted buying cheap, style-less scandanavian furniture!

Umm no Tats is affiliated with Shell, pretty sure Ash is on his own BTW the new Shell ad says: Can anyone tell me how a fuel could possibly add zip or vroom? Or is it just false advertising.