Duncan

Second thing first, I'm really not sure what is on the bottom of the intake valves, carbon build up is not normally white. Also, I hope the cams are still in because some of those valves are open (if not, valve stems are bent). Depending on your plans other than a new head gasket, it is a good time to get a head job anyway; even if it is only a factory spec rebuild at least all your stem seals, valve guides and valve seats will be good. New springs are a good idea in an older engine that will be pushed as well. Head shop will tell you what is happening on the valves For the piston, I don't think that is normal but it's hard to tell as that is very close up. Is there only one piston that looks like that, and how does the matching head chamber look....I'm concerned it might be pinging lightly but for a long time. And yes, some idea of the klm on the engine might help.....overall the pistons look super clean (or is that just a flash making it look silver?) which is unusual in a factory engine after all this time.

Good progress, back on the dirty side though:) I guess the boost doc water fitting / AN converter is press in, do they recommend a sealant?

I hadn't considered buying new they are reasonably well available through yahoo japan for late model examples...I'm sure they will be the same between the 2 models.

Hi mate, there are a couple of other hybrid owners here who can share their experience too. One thing before buying an old hybrid (as I did), you should get the battery voltages checked before you buy as it is a $5K+ to replace the battery (plus the difficulty of getting a battery from Japan to Aus, assuming that is where you are). Consult or other good scan tools can check the battery voltage when fully charged. My experience with the hybrid has been excellent; between both motors it is a suitably quick car (280kw) for my daily use and the car itself is super comfortable and has all luxury toys you would expect from Nissan's flagship at the time, plus it was very good value (I paid about $30k for mine) However....having said that, I have had a major issue with the hybrid system and as a result mine has been off the road for months, mostly because I have another car and don't work on fixing it every day. Basically I got hit in the rear coming onto the freeway and the car spent a while at the smash repair. When they were finished it would not start, turns out the 12v battery had died (potentially crash damage), then the hybrid battery kept trying to charge it until it was flat too, at which point it didn't have enough power to start the engine to recharge the battery and I was stuck. I'll post up the full story (once it is finished), but in summary I had to remove the pack and charge it manually, and had some (user error) problems doing that So.....100% I would still buy the hybrid, they are great value for the price, but there is some risk involved due to lack of local nissan/infiniti support

It would be easier to have an opinion with pics I took the one out of my stagea years ago (yes, that car has some dash holes from that and other things over the years. The one in the Cima was built in and occasionally failed, causing japanese lady in the back to shout at me every now and then, but I just considered that "character"

Glad you are happy with your choice, do you have a dyno graph to share (and, what dyno was it on?) My direct experience is 20+ years racing on journal bearing turbos due to class rules, and watching those with modern BB singles on the same motor driving away in a straight line, is your experience one dyno pull? I'd expect that coming to the forums and telling everyone their experience is "nonsense" will get you a bit of push back.

cnc valve seats and clearance the head for big cams? It kind of depends which head you have, and what your current/potential future plans are. Any idea why the valves are leaking? Have you ever had a timing issue?

It was very high tech Officeworks A3 scanner at 300dpi black and white, then stitch each A3 scan together manually in paint. It has worked pretty OK, you can see the folds in some early scans but I back folded the later ones and they were OK

You are best to look up the part number for yours, and then check the part number for other years and see if they match. If they don't match, when you look up the old part# on a parts site like amayama, it will give you the "supersession chain" which is the later part number that is interchangeable with yours

OK, so if you haven't seen in the first post, per GTSBoy's suggestion I have done high res scans form the original printed manual (instead of the photocopy which is not the same quality) Zip file of the all diagrams (excludes Oz specific, they are in the first post if you need them) R32-wiring-hi-res.zip C-1 Logical Wiring diagram (better for understanding) W-1 Physical Wiring diagram (if you are trying to physically trace something) RB26DETT Physical wiring diagram W-3 ATTESSA physical wiring W-4 Door physical wiring W-5 HICAS physical wiring W-6 Air con physical wiring

Yep, 90A is just the maximum it can put out, going slightly higher output than standard won't cause problems

Try Hooks at Barrell Bros, he is a skyline guy from way back

I guess they were trying to say the "clock spring" failed, it is the electronic part that let you have wiring in a wheel that turns connected to a steering column that doesn't. The steering wheel airbag won't be working (there will be a procedure you can check with the flashing light to confirm) You can get the specific part number for your car from one of the parts sites like amayama using your VIN#, it will vary depending on model, air bag system, cruise control or not etc. The part lives between the steering wheel and the column. Repair isn't difficult but brand new part is pricey if you can't find second hand

wow, big job to replace then repair! So I can't remember in a 33 GTST, but in a 32 the fog light button turns on the fog lights and tail lights...sounds dumb but you'd be surprised how many times it has caught people out. Assuming you are sure that it is not that, I don't think you can trust colour matching. But in any case you need to start by pulling every fuse until one or more of those issues are fixed, there are very few unfused circuits (eg alternator and starter) so you will be able to narrow it down. Then you need to trace the loom for those circuits, I can't think of any short cut. Reverse lights send the positive power through the gearbox switch so that might help a little in that case. In 32 the fog lights/dash/tail lights positive all go through the dash switch but I'm not sure if that is the same in 33.

What a specific question I am pretty sure the rule of thumb is that your maximum HP is restrictor diameter x10hp....therefore you should should size your turbo for max 380hp (ie, tiny/fast spooling). Unless you follow the tried solution of an accidental air leak downstream from the restrictor of course

Hi Denis, per earlier in this thread (and there is similar info elsewhere), it is unlikely you can get factory seals and clips and will have to go generic replacement. Even if you can get hold of all of the factory moulds the clips that hold them in are not available and yours are almost certainly broken by now. So, all you need is a competent installer who can fit generic seals. The last 2 times I had the seals done, they were not done correctly and came loose (1st time) and are fitted fully but don't sit very well (2nd time). Sorry there doesn't seem to be a better solution out there. Of course, if your retaining clips are not amazingly broken, you can try and refit the factory trims.

classic anyway, rb25 and 26 use hydraulic and solid lifters, not rockers, so no adjustment required (except theoretically for wear in an solid lifter shim over time)

You're a billionaire having 9x R32 front indicators!!!

That is unusual (noting you didn't say what size Walbro it is). What was the pre and post fuel pump fuel pressure. I have Bosch 044 in the race car and Walbro 525 in the Stagea, both with the stock fuel regulator, not issues. BTW Josh good point about the FPCM, I assume that people bypass it when changing the fuel pump by running the fuel pump negative straight to the chassis.....the standard FPCM is calibrated to a good condition standard fuel pump so it might give unreliable results with an aftermarket pump.

Yeah sorry i wasn't clear, so was I. Eg in this kit, the reservoir cap is attached to the pressure bleeder via a standard nitto air fitting, therefore the cap is interchangeable with any other brand pressure bleeder that also uses a nitto fitting (Or, without too much creativity, the fitting could be swapped for another style of air fitting)

The SP pressure bleeder just uses a regular nitto air fitting for the cap, if the motive pressure vessel is the same you can probably grab any brand cap

Interesting. The casting is different (but interchangeable) for R34 RB26 because it used a physically larger crown wheel than could fit in the early model housings, not sure if that is what you are seeing here..... No idea why the block bolt pattern is different though, I've never heard of any sump that wasn't interchangeable on the rb AWD block

Yes, I agree with that logic. I don't know enough about the spec to confirm the list is correct

Well, the speedo sender is trying to work out road speed from the gearbox's output shaft speed...therefore the diff ratio (and tyre height) must be assumed in the speed sender. So, if your car/diff (r34 auto) matches the speed sender you are looking at it will be fine.

It will run fine, as the fuel pressure regulator makes sure the injectors get the right pressure, not the pump. You should check the maximum current draw of the 255 is within the standard wiring's fuse (and therefore wire size), and if not you may want to take the opportunity to replace the factory wiring with a properly fused direct battery feed