hardsteppa

Pretty easy to replace if you have a press, but you might just need to tighten the nut. Pull the cap off and have a check.

Springs are about $6 each. Rebuild kit is $250ish, plus about 70 postage, direct from JPN.

$50 for the diff, it's just gathering dust. Items above all still for sale.

yes definitely, have some new springs on the way along with a rebuild kit.

strutbrace and tyres were sold. Other bargains still available. Also have a stainless steel intake pipe for R33/34 - has 2x BOV return nipples for those custom setups. $75 +postage.

yes. Be very careful pulling off old hose and pushing new ones on to old plastic ps reservoir, to avoid snapping off the plastic titty...i mean, nipple. Cut hoses slightly (not heaps) longer to give you a bit to manouvre them around. I cut mine to 'exact length' as previous hoses, and wish i'd left an extra cm. Head to Enzed and ask them for p/s hose; there's only a few standard sizes I believe, and r33's use 2 standard sizes.

i wasn't aware they failed that frequently...and considering a 2nd hand one is <$100, and genuine nissan seal kit is $33, i'd give rebuilding another 2nd hand one a go.

hey team so car is a '96 S2 R33 gtst, with a Cusco 1-way lsd. Having an issue with a clunkclunkclunk pulsing feeling coming through the car from the rear when driving in a straight line, present between 25-35kph then goes away, and a grindy/vibraty feel between 1-10kph. But, when going through the 25-35kph range under any reasonable acceleration, can't feel any issue present - although goes through that km range very quickly. Things done so far - rebuilt rear driveshafts just recently, thinking this might have been the issue - no change - replaced centre bearing in tailshaft - replaced all wheel bearings with gen nissan - every single bush replaced with poly, and solid diff front bushes At low speed 1-10kph, the grindy feel is the same as you get from normal operation of the lsd when turning, it's just happening when in a straight line, so thinking it could be the plates are worn and not enough initial torque keeping it 'locked'? Measured the plates and all of them measured as worn by 0.05mm but haven't been able to find out any info about cusco lsd's to see what they class as the min thickness, and when to be replaced.

my oem Nissan gasket was metal....as all gaskets for intake joints that see boost pressure are.

wait, you have removed stock subframe bushes completely, or using the pineapple-type inserts? From the pics looks like you're using full replacement bushes. It's a few years back now but from what I recall, there were differing designs, and I went with whiteline bushes instead of superpro, I think for what you're experiencing now - they list them for r33 but they're based off r32 or 300zx or something, and don't fit as flush as they should. I have a gap now, and did even with stock subframe bushes/superpro pineapple rings, but it doesn't move up/down with jacked up, the gap is fixed in position. If yours moves up and down even with the 4x nuts still one tight, that's a bit of a worry. Was the crush tube the same length as the bush it slides into, or longer?

New gasket on a clean prepped surface, no sealant. Gasket is metal, pretty hardy when new.

OP, does sound like could be a tps issue. If you search, there are how-to's about putting r33 auto trans into diagnostics mode; suggest you try this and see if it registers any tps fault.

i believe you mean, any exhaust shop could weld some bits together, scratch their heads and wonder why it doesn't fit back in, then write it off as too hard then charge you a fortune. It takes a lot of fiddling to get it to fit in perfectly. OP what's your budget? I have my old 3in one sitting on my garage floor at moment, have now gone to 3 1/2in.

If the new turbo is relatively stock-sized, should be fine if not upping boost level. Pls search for other info, it is freely available in here.

emanage ultimate piggybacked on a stock auto ecu, I would say.

Jumping between load points would be where i'd start; one of them needing adjustment.

Ok so you'd be planning to put your own unroadworthy wheels/tyres on the vehicle as soon as you get the cert issued, is that the plan?

I recommend 10w-140. Hard to find, but VERY multipourpus.

i don't think that's it.

Cats like to climb into warm places during winter, maybe a cat climbed up in there while you were parked and the exhaust was warm and is now stuck. I would stick my head under there and say 'here puss', see if you hear any meowing.

The ultimate also has preset settings for engine types including rb25, setup itself should be minimal and fairly foolproof.

Emanage doesn't have base map because you still run off factory ecu; that IS the base map. I have read they can fry easily though, something about being put on the vtec setting, when used on non vtec motors? So the unit itself doesn't even power up, is that your issue?

good springs dude, still got my set sitting unused but can't part with them " just in case"...$100 is great price, GLWS

i'm going to say, it's 2017....no you didn't. For that kind of HP you better figure out how to look after it real quick; reading the oil thread on here would be best. See what suits your build.

I agree.... F&ck the subforum clearly marked " CLASSIFIEDS Items for Sale or Wanted to Buy - (Private sales only)"....right here will do just fine. none for me though thanks mate.