hardsteppa

so i see Hankook Rs-3's seem to be back in good supply in Oz....checking their specs though they are only 'Traction A" rated, not AA? bit weird for a performance-marketed tyre?

are they true hubcentric though? bit bloody dangerizzle otherwise.

6mm is pretty thin. don't know it would even cover the hub lip thickness?

Wasnt it something about the seals/pistons being pissweak and not up to any performance use? tho i might be thinking of another caliper.

i used a gtech hicas bar...big weight saving, but can't tell the difference between having it and not...then again i don't track the car.

get one of those borescope cameras off ebay for $12, do a before and after view.

when i had the head off recently replacing head gasket, i used the liqi-moly carbon cleaner to get rid of the carbon buildup on top of the pistons (rb25det). It worked well, in that it really dissolved it, but even then some small spots took heaps, letting it sit, and then some scrubbing to get them removed completely. Pistons looked great afterwards though. So not sure how much carbon these products would remove if just sprayed into the intake, doesn't seem they would remove the really caked on stuff...and don't know how long it would take before it builds up again?

What are any of us really doing? and are we really doing it? But your question is much more easily answered, heaps of info on here about it. You will need to search tho, i cbf doing it.

good on you for posting this up; not dealt with DMS directly but did deal with Jeff Beaumont many years ago in Bayswater who was affiliated with them and wow what a shocker he was. Hope it works out for you in this case.

Either something not connected/air leak or something not plugged in/electrical.

He says bottom of strut nuts, not top.

Doesnt look done to me. You seem to be missing a car....benches don't need much brake, generally speaking

Bottom strut mount on r33's is a pressed in stud not a bolt so is definitely not single use only. Yes use blue loctite when doing back up. They are around 65-70 lbs torque i believe, but there are exact numbers online somewhere, a full list for r34 which will be the same for r33.

Coolant flowing thru heater core will not make any restrictions relevant to temp/flow across test of engine. Looping is better, blocking creates a dead-spot that collects sludge, contributes to rust& corrosion.

Don't imagine. Do research, and know. It's crucial when making a claim.

Yes. Where did u get 4 grand from as an asking price and what advantages do you see in these over the evo brembo kits, and what master cylinder have you found a skyline to require during your testing of this prototype kit.

thats bloody awesome

well i'm a fair man...a very well hung and fair man...so credit where it's due, did take it back to another supercheap and after they saw the amount of leaking, had no trouble giving a refund on the spot so good on them. Matter now closed.

$25,000. Comes with free tomei engine.

Yep stopped into a place yesterday and dude was very helpful, will be following up further for a refund. Century battrry is sitting in a plastic container now in a puddle of battery acid, definitely not just a bit of weeping.

Century battery leaking so i bought a new Century battery back in July, and noticed on the weekend that it's leaked, making some nice corrosion into the passenger rear seatal area and boot. Cleaned it up, and more leaking evident today. Stopped back to Supercheap today, and they ask, has it been dropped? No...it's safely secured in stock mounting area (boot, in R33). Is it overcharging? No, according to my apexi and defi digital gauges it's exactly in the prime charging range. Has it been overfilled? no buddy, apart from a small topup yesterday after I noticed it leaked, it's as I bought it. They say, well that's the only reason it would ever leak. I say, you're forgetting about manufacturing fault. They're now saying, can't do anything unless I give them back the battery and they send it back to Century for further testing (who, call me sceptical, will likely claim there's nothing wrong with it) meaning if i want to drive in the meantime, will have to buy another battery (NOT a Century). I ran a Supercharge battery without any issue until it suddenly died about 6 weeks after the 3 year warranty expired, on exactly the same setup and my alternator is a fairly new Bosch, so wouldn't think there's anything wrong with my setup. Anything else to cover or check, before I call my legal dept about launching a claim for refund of purchase and damage to my car?

and rear end. and front end. and side end. and engine. and front suspension design. and gearbox. R33 is the IJN Yamato, R32 is the USS Walter Mondale.

well...it didn't have the greatest battle history but still...it was an engineering marvel, the pride of Japan, instantly recognizable by its' stylish lines..much like the R33.

allright, the Village People! i mean...ha fkn ha. More like the mighty Yamato built for battle...street battle that is. I think you get where I'm going with it...it's a weapon, a destroyer, etc.

Soft and fluffy???! How dare you. The r33 is a mans car.