Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What are your intake temps? if you're hitting over 60, time for a new FMIC. You'll be surprised at the power gain to be had with decent IATs.

On 2/20/2017 at 8:21 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

What are your intake temps? if you're hitting over 60, time for a new FMIC. You'll be surprised at the power gain to be had with decent IATs.

What is the best way to check intake temps Johnny?

I used a thin 1.5mm thick K thermocouple between a hose and the fmic with the sensing part around the middle of the flow. Plug it to an egt gauge and you have a reasonably accurate iat reading.

 

I made a measurement on my car last year and with 30℃ ambient temp the iat rose to 43℃ near the limiter in fourth.

 

 

 

 

 

8 hours ago, kingtube69 said:

What is the best way to check intake temps Johnny?

either buy a compatible IAT sensor and weld it on the cold side of your IC (never install it into your plenum like the OEM 32/33 GTR as it heat soaks) and run it back to your ECU or just a basic gauge on eBay with an open sensor (probably wrong term used) ie fast sensor not the solid ones that react slow similar to your oil/water sensor 

Just for the record the IC Tao uses is shown in P550 of this thread . I didn't go back far enough initially but chased a link to it from elsewhere .

I'll be ordering one Monday and looking into the 100 C cat as well .

Also my IAT sensor is in the back of my cast X over pipe and I'm wondering if it is heat soaking because of it .

A .

Just for the record the IC Tao uses is shown in P550 of this thread . I didn't go back far enough initially but chased a link to it from elsewhere .
I'll be ordering one Monday and looking into the 100 C cat as well .
Also my IAT sensor is in the back of my cast X over pipe and I'm wondering if it is heat soaking because of it .
A .

Iat sensor is fine there. I have mine there and it only heat soaks if the engine is off. Doesn't take long to go back to normal once driving.

I'll have to take some logs next weekend. Mine is on the cold side right behind the radiator and it heat soaks incredibly bad.
If you turn the car off and come back a few minutes later and go to drive it feels like its around 60+deg and for me thats around -5 deg timing. It takes a long non stop drive for the power to come back slowly. Even though the sensor has an insulation seal, it doesn't stop the radiator heat from soaking into the sensor itself.

I will be moving it to the chassis rails section of the ic.

Hey Tao I was wondering if maybe I could get a quote to rebuild my stock r33 gtst s1 turbo was on your site earlier just trying to get ballpark figure im also located in okinawa if thats gonna be an issue shipping and all?

Hi, we can supply a donor turbo for $150 so you will not need to send one in. The cost to high flow is $850 for G2 that is made for stock ecu and fuel system, while the upsized G3 cost $900, that supports around 260rwkws on P98 fuel, but will require a custom tune and bigger injectors to work. postage to Okinawa is about $150. Oil line is included in price quoted. 

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

 

3 minutes ago, -S- said:

Guys,

Let's say the vtc plug wasn't connected during a tune... does the car require a retune if u connect the vtc plug?

Yes.

The tune should be checked either way.  VCT changes both the engine VE and the build of cylinder pressure, which means timing and fuelling requirements will change with versus without VCT engaged.

  • 4 weeks later...
17 minutes ago, inmaniac said:

Hey guys.

Just wondering who here has experience with the standard "G2" high flow and what your real world results were?

Cheers!

I'll be honest with you, if you go through the efforts of removing the stock turbo to replace, you might as well go for something that's going to be of a decent size.

Just now, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I'll be honest with you, if you go through the efforts of removing the stock turbo to replace, you might as well go for something that's going to be of a decent size.

Thanks for the reply dude.

I was thinking the same thing, and therefore I wanted to go G3, but my understanding is the wastegate for this is set to 18psi. I'm hearing conflicting things that this might be too much boost for my 209xxx km engine (despite being well maintained, 200k service, etc)

Happy to hear opinions. Supporting mods: NISTune, Z32AFM,3in Turbo back + high flow cat, Walbro 255, 550cc injectors.

Goal was originally 240rwkw but am happy to temper expectations based on reliability.

Nah, that's rubbish. It's not boost that blows apart motors, it's timing and or torque.

I "had" a 300 000+ motor running with 1.8bar worth of boost for a good amount of time and thrashed regularly at the track too. It died about 3 years later lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...