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What are your intake temps? if you're hitting over 60, time for a new FMIC. You'll be surprised at the power gain to be had with decent IATs.

On 2/20/2017 at 8:21 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

What are your intake temps? if you're hitting over 60, time for a new FMIC. You'll be surprised at the power gain to be had with decent IATs.

What is the best way to check intake temps Johnny?

I used a thin 1.5mm thick K thermocouple between a hose and the fmic with the sensing part around the middle of the flow. Plug it to an egt gauge and you have a reasonably accurate iat reading.

 

I made a measurement on my car last year and with 30℃ ambient temp the iat rose to 43℃ near the limiter in fourth.

 

 

 

 

 

8 hours ago, kingtube69 said:

What is the best way to check intake temps Johnny?

either buy a compatible IAT sensor and weld it on the cold side of your IC (never install it into your plenum like the OEM 32/33 GTR as it heat soaks) and run it back to your ECU or just a basic gauge on eBay with an open sensor (probably wrong term used) ie fast sensor not the solid ones that react slow similar to your oil/water sensor 

Just for the record the IC Tao uses is shown in P550 of this thread . I didn't go back far enough initially but chased a link to it from elsewhere .

I'll be ordering one Monday and looking into the 100 C cat as well .

Also my IAT sensor is in the back of my cast X over pipe and I'm wondering if it is heat soaking because of it .

A .

Just for the record the IC Tao uses is shown in P550 of this thread . I didn't go back far enough initially but chased a link to it from elsewhere .
I'll be ordering one Monday and looking into the 100 C cat as well .
Also my IAT sensor is in the back of my cast X over pipe and I'm wondering if it is heat soaking because of it .
A .

Iat sensor is fine there. I have mine there and it only heat soaks if the engine is off. Doesn't take long to go back to normal once driving.

I'll have to take some logs next weekend. Mine is on the cold side right behind the radiator and it heat soaks incredibly bad.
If you turn the car off and come back a few minutes later and go to drive it feels like its around 60+deg and for me thats around -5 deg timing. It takes a long non stop drive for the power to come back slowly. Even though the sensor has an insulation seal, it doesn't stop the radiator heat from soaking into the sensor itself.

I will be moving it to the chassis rails section of the ic.

Hey Tao I was wondering if maybe I could get a quote to rebuild my stock r33 gtst s1 turbo was on your site earlier just trying to get ballpark figure im also located in okinawa if thats gonna be an issue shipping and all?

Hi, we can supply a donor turbo for $150 so you will not need to send one in. The cost to high flow is $850 for G2 that is made for stock ecu and fuel system, while the upsized G3 cost $900, that supports around 260rwkws on P98 fuel, but will require a custom tune and bigger injectors to work. postage to Okinawa is about $150. Oil line is included in price quoted. 

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

 

3 minutes ago, -S- said:

Guys,

Let's say the vtc plug wasn't connected during a tune... does the car require a retune if u connect the vtc plug?

Yes.

The tune should be checked either way.  VCT changes both the engine VE and the build of cylinder pressure, which means timing and fuelling requirements will change with versus without VCT engaged.

  • 4 weeks later...
17 minutes ago, inmaniac said:

Hey guys.

Just wondering who here has experience with the standard "G2" high flow and what your real world results were?

Cheers!

I'll be honest with you, if you go through the efforts of removing the stock turbo to replace, you might as well go for something that's going to be of a decent size.

Just now, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I'll be honest with you, if you go through the efforts of removing the stock turbo to replace, you might as well go for something that's going to be of a decent size.

Thanks for the reply dude.

I was thinking the same thing, and therefore I wanted to go G3, but my understanding is the wastegate for this is set to 18psi. I'm hearing conflicting things that this might be too much boost for my 209xxx km engine (despite being well maintained, 200k service, etc)

Happy to hear opinions. Supporting mods: NISTune, Z32AFM,3in Turbo back + high flow cat, Walbro 255, 550cc injectors.

Goal was originally 240rwkw but am happy to temper expectations based on reliability.

Nah, that's rubbish. It's not boost that blows apart motors, it's timing and or torque.

I "had" a 300 000+ motor running with 1.8bar worth of boost for a good amount of time and thrashed regularly at the track too. It died about 3 years later lol

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