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Finally got my gas struts regassed today; no more getting belted in the back of the head when I throw backpackers in the boot.

Guess I'll have to get a bat or something to knock them out now.

This has been on my To-Do list for, oh, about 5 years now...

Nice!

Can you get the sedan in a manuel, or are they all auto?

7-speed auto in the KV36 with the 3.7 motor for JDM, but the US got a 6-speed manual... :-) But I do have flappy paddles now!!

looks good smile.gif I'll have to have a think about what I want to do! there is a good satisfaction I suppose when you do it yourself! :cheers:I know there is some pretty good instructions on how to do it on here.. using those magic bar things after the washhave attached an rtf document a made when I copied the instructions off one of the posts long ago biggrin.gifattachicon.gifCar Care.rtf

Nice instructions for car detailing... I'm off to Supercheap Auto :)

Timing belt replaced, fuel filter replaced, airflow meters cleaned, finally found an r33 Gtr aircon compressor but found that the 260rs lines are bigger than the r33 compressor, so now need to find r33 Gtr lines, also purchased a twin 2/1/2 in exhaust off an r33 that I'll get modded to fit, also found the suspension I purchased of eBay was s tune so just sorting out ordering new replacement front shocks, not bad for $65

Edited by poohkies

Timing belt replaced, fuel filter replaced, airflow meters cleaned, finally found an r33 Gtr aircon compressor but found that the 260rs lines are bigger than the r33 compressor, so now need to find r33 Gtr lines, also purchased a twin 2/1/2 in exhaust off an r33 that I'll get modded to fit, also found the suspension I purchased of eBay was s tune so just sorting out ordering new replacement front shocks, not bad for $65

busy day!

I replaced the factory radiator because it had sprung a leak while towing to Bulldelah with a cooling pro one from Just Jap. Actually I'm pretty surprised the original lasted over 300,000klm including about 120,000klm with the 3l.

  • Like 1

Painted my grill satin black today.. got it painted okay but underestimated how much (or little) paint I had left so the inside bits arent so proper but i cant get more paint bah good friday. Looks okay at the moment.

Edit.. also polished up the fog light/indicator lens' as the were cloudy

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Edited by c34Florry

Finished off doing a blue dash light conversion today after a few weeks with out a speedo due to dirt and no globes. Also had my car finally back on the road a month or so ago after a second hand motor went in after a yr of being off the road. And also de badged the grill today as well of the stag emblem and the rs four badge

Finished off doing a blue dash light conversion today after a few weeks with out a speedo due to dirt and no globes. Also had my car finally back on the road a month or so ago after a second hand motor went in after a yr of being off the road. And also de badged the grill today as well of the stag emblem and the rs four badge

and painted black like this?

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Hi guys just sharing our Stagea 260rs After 2 years out of action due to turbo Failure.

Been racepace done their stage 1 engine rebuild with 2860-9 turbo. also did the LED front indicator and Ganador mirror too :)

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POWER!!!

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  • Like 1

Hi guys just sharing our Stagea 260rs After 2 years out of action due to turbo Failure.

Been racepace done their stage 1 engine rebuild with 2860-9 turbo. also did the LED front indicator and Ganador mirror too :)

20140414_171900_zps179d7457.jpg

IMG-20140422-WA0000_zpsffa2488c.jpg

POWER!!!

That's looks fanastic, love it :) what sort of grill is that? also any more info on the LED's conversion?

That's looks fanastic, love it :) what sort of grill is that? also any more info on the LED's conversion?

It's the Dolphin LED :) mine is the smoked version but you can get the clear LED version. Got it from Yahoo Japan through import monster.

As 66yostagea said the grill is the N/A Grille.

Finally got all the parts needed and had my e-Manage Ultimate installed and tuned last weekend.. Many thanks to Scott & Cihan :worship:

Well worth it IMHO and very happy with the power gains and the attitude of the car. Has made a big difference.. notably in responsiveness and mid range torque. Mods already done include full 3" turbo back exhaust with scotty dump, Turbosmart BOV, Turbotech Boost Controller, Blitz filter, v35 'power duct'. Still running stock turbo, intercooler, injectors, wastegate actuator, fuelpump (soon to be replaced by Walbro). Car made ~180awkw @18psi :thumbsup::D Probably next on the list will be intercooler (and maybe a high flow :w00t:)

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Edited by skyguy3804
  • Like 4

Hey Guys

Just thought I'd share what I've done to my M35 since buying it in December, it's an 02 Axis.

Tein wagon adjustable coilovers

Dronell 20x9.5 2 piece wheels

Freeway dolphin 80mm cat back exhaust

Brake upgrade to go on next week!

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  • Like 2

Hey Guys

Just thought I'd share what I've done to my M35 since buying it in December, it's an 02 Axis.

Tein wagon adjustable coilovers

Dronell 20x9.5 2 piece wheels

Freeway dolphin 80mm cat back exhaust

Brake upgrade to go on next week!

Exhaust looks awesome! how does it sound?

Also surprising how damn good those wheels look on it. keep up the good work

  • Like 1

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    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
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