Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Your tyre pressures seem very high. On the road I run 28 all round but when we get to the track I drop them down to 25 cold. That’s with nt05s and 123s, I did run them at 30 once by mistake and it would blow the tyres off every time I drive to drive out of the corner. Also a good wheel alignment will help 1000s but not your road driving one but a track one, my guy I use sets up a couple ss2000 cars and does what you ask.

We have a big track day coming up and I’m more worried about not having enough downforce over the rear end

  • Like 1

With the AR1 I run them at front 32 & rear 30 (255-40-17) but my 180sx is a lot lighter and less power, the suzuki swift we run around 28-30 (225-45-17). May need to go up in size if sticking with them. I used the hankook z222 in the past and found them a good compromise for street & track. How big a tyre can you go?

With the oil issue have you looked at putting a breather/fitting in the oil cap or off the side of the passenger side cam cover?

  • Like 1
17 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

With the oil issue have you looked at putting a breather/fitting in the oil cap or off the side of the passenger side cam cover?

That's not a bad idea, I'll slowly chip away and see what each change does. Here's hoping venting the crank case where I've highlighted will help dramatically, if not will pull the motor out and weld on a fitting to the sump and mod the cam covers.

@WR33KD I found when I went to 30psi hot, the car would slide around even more. I feel going too low you end up compromising the side wall rigidity. I'm going to just destroy these tyres and straight up go Hankook Z221 and see I can do Wakefield in a kebab spec R33 under 1m7s.

This is a screenshot from nankang uk about recommended hot pressures for various weight ranges. I've found the recommendation pretty accurate for skyboats and didn't achieve much by reducing pressure too much.

 

Z221 is a much better tyre,in a different league really but so is the price. Gotta pay to play I suppose.

 

Screenshot_20200630_204350_com.android.chrome.thumb.jpg.7df8b9444f81418dad969cffbe91a655.jpg

Link to site https://www.nankangtyre.co.uk/products/motorsport/ar-1/ for anyone interested.

  • Like 2

Seen that scale before and at a guess that’s for normal road driving. 37psi on a race track should only be seen in boost levels not wheel pressure. 27 psi looks better but most of a land yachts will see over 1400kgs with all the mods we have done to them so that’s kinda scary they say 34+psi in there tyres hot

There's no simple rule for tyre pressures, different tyres work best at different pressures. Avon hillclimb slicks about 15psi, and Kumho V70a about 42psi. Most common hot pressure range is 32-34 in a track tyre but you need to try it out and see.

  • Like 1

Im looking at these few mods to help with my oil issues at the moment, anyone used them or have any feedback on them?

https://www.boostdoc.com.au/product/camshaft-oil-splash-plates-rb-twin-cam-engines/
and getting the head shaved similar to the vid here
https://www.facebook.com/aaron.spec/videos/pcb.2956846604441146/1413247245730179/?type=3&theater&ifg=1
 

And replacing my tiny catch can with one of these with a drain back to the sump
https://atperformance.com.au/product/nissan-skyline-r32-oil-catch-can/

 

  • 2 weeks later...
8 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Oh yeah, under 2 years old and it now has a cracked thermostat housing ???

Check out the service notes under Recommendations ?

20200710_095302.thumb.jpg.863d04845314416eebec0b0bfbdeac5f.jpg

Busted!

I like how they need to  special order some distilled water and coolant.

  • Haha 1

lol yep busted.

2 years old, 4 problems to check, and a cracked part?

you are clearly meant to throw it away at the end of warranty and buy a new one

  • Haha 1
1 hour ago, Duncan said:

you are clearly meant to throw it away at the end of warranty and buy a new one

My exact plans, sell the German sausage at 4 years and 6 months.

 

Haram exhaust tip fixed, catch can with bigger fittings and an additional fitting for crank case vent.

I am ready for the show down with @BakemonoRicer, get ready to witness broken gearboxes.

Thank you Third Strike Fabrications for the fabrication work, bloody amazing! (he's ex Hypertune if that helps)

20200716_125701.thumb.jpg.3154e0ec2f71f1c4468473975dc88c4b.jpg

Screenshot_20200716-134849_Instagram.thumb.jpg.9cde3a1d42db465e4c066304751ee508.jpg

  • Like 7
On 16/07/2020 at 1:55 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Haram exhaust tip fixed, catch can with bigger fittings and an additional fitting for crank case vent.

I am ready for the show down with @BakemonoRicer, get ready to witness broken gearboxes.

Thank you Third Strike Fabrications for the fabrication work, bloody amazing! (he's ex Hypertune if that helps)

20200716_125701.thumb.jpg.3154e0ec2f71f1c4468473975dc88c4b.jpg

Screenshot_20200716-134849_Instagram.thumb.jpg.9cde3a1d42db465e4c066304751ee508.jpg

What are the velocity stacks for?

I likes da trumpets 

On 7/1/2020 at 9:00 AM, Jasoncauser said:

Im looking at these few mods to help with my oil issues at the moment, anyone used them or have any feedback on them?

https://www.boostdoc.com.au/product/camshaft-oil-splash-plates-rb-twin-cam-engines/
and getting the head shaved similar to the vid here
https://www.facebook.com/aaron.spec/videos/pcb.2956846604441146/1413247245730179/?type=3&theater&ifg=1
 

And replacing my tiny catch can with one of these with a drain back to the sump
https://atperformance.com.au/product/nissan-skyline-r32-oil-catch-can/

 

Can you try a link to the video again? Didn't work for me.

Also i am a large contributer to the oil control thread but i disagree with unzippied, i believe those splash trays will actually be beneficial as long as your ring pack is not already absolutely fkd. I will be purchasing some soon for my next engine (mystery spec RB20).

 

@Dose Pipe Sutututu jealous you have the extra blank plug on your AWD block. I will be fitting a crankcase pressure sensor on mine but no good place to put it ( i dont want it in rocker covers for aesthetic reasons). I think i will end up welding a -3AN line to the dipstick and run the sensor remote. If i had the blank in the block it would be ideal.

  • Like 1
33 minutes ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

Can you try a link to the video again? Didn't work for me.

Also i am a large contributer to the oil control thread but i disagree with unzippied, i believe those splash trays will actually be beneficial as long as your ring pack is not already absolutely fkd. I will be purchasing some soon for my next engine (mystery spec RB20).

 

Yer I just tried the link and works fine, but you may need to be a member of that Outside Skylines group to see it? 

They also put this post up the other day which does show some merit :)
But can you believe everything you see on facebook lol

image.png

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...