Advice on setup for R34 GTR 600-700awhp RELIABLE

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

On 18/07/2022 at 9:44 PM, bigboss59400 said:

I think they didn't specify because they don't intend to sell them if you are not using their camshaft ?

And since I will be using their camshafts I supposed that's the right thing to do ? or am I missing something ?

The Japanese never envisaged running 2~3bar of boost through a motor, nor was E85 in mind for them. This is why you see cars with boost running Jap springs getting into all sorts of issues with valve float.

One thing to note, with VCAM the consensus is to stick to about 80lb seat pressure. @The Mafia had a few goes at getting it right. 

[Piggaz]

4 inch internal through. Big, shut the car up and flows. Big enough to fist 🤜

[Piggaz]

On 19/7/2022 at 11:30 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

The Japanese never envisaged running 2~3bar of boost through a motor, nor was E85 in mind for them. This is why you see cars with boost running Jap springs getting into all sorts of issues with valve float.

One thing to note, with VCAM the consensus is to stick to about 80lb seat pressure. @The Mafia had a few goes at getting it right. 

Got caught out a decade ago with jap slinkies. HKS step 2’s floated at 5000 ish rpm with 20 ish psi behind them. It had about 43 psi on the seat which is less than factory 🙄🙄 Admittedly using a custom grind cam which was a lot more agro than the Japanese molehills that are on the market. Ripped them out and chucked in the firmest supertech single springs with Ti retainers and problem gone.

 

[BK]

On 19/07/2022 at 11:46 AM, Piggaz said:

Got caught out a decade ago with jap slinkies. HKS step 2’s floated at 5000 ish rpm with 20 ish psi behind them. It had about 43 psi on the seat which is less than factory 🙄🙄 Admittedly using a custom grind cam which was a lot more agro than the Japanese molehills that are on the market. Ripped them out and chucked in the firmest supertech single springs with Ti retainers and problem gone.

 

Same deal with using Tomei type B rubbish - floated worse than stock springs. Similar fix too, Supertech Dual springs, titanium retainers and Tomei cam cap studs - still standard 26 valves though as they are one part that gets changed a lot for absolutely no reason.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

They were good for their time in the 90s and 00s lol.

Noticed most jap tuners back in the day rarely went more than 1.5bar boost?

 

[r32-25t]

I had a head built and had a set of tomei type bs, shop measured the seat pressure and made me buy a new set because they weren’t going to be close to doing the job. 

[r32-25t]

Once you cut the seats the Japanese springs lose so much seat pressure they aren’t worth they price in scrap 

[Kinkstaah]

There's a big difference between "is shit" and "wasn't designed for that purpose" though 😛

[r32-25t]

And the Japanese valve springs comes under is shit 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

On 19/07/2022 at 1:25 PM, Kinkstaah said:

There's a big difference between "is shit" and "wasn't designed for that purpose" though 😛

and Nissan engineers never envisaged these RB blocks/heads doing triple to quadruple the power they were designed for, but here we are  

(inserts blown motors, cracked blocks, blown turbos, etc.)

 

[Kinkstaah]

Not to mention comparisons to other cars (like falcons, commodores) which also are great at doing what they were designed to do... but this is off topic now.

If you want a reliable R34 GTR with 600HP, the answer is buy a 911 GT3, because that is what it takes lol.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

On 19/07/2022 at 1:33 PM, Kinkstaah said:

f you want a reliable R34 GTR with 600HP, the answer is buy a 911 GT3, because that is what it takes lol.

I agree with you here, or even a M5 F90 V8 TT, out of the box 460kW STOCK

[robbo_rb180]

On 7/19/2022 at 1:33 PM, Kinkstaah said:

Not to mention comparisons to other cars (like falcons, commodores) which also are great at doing what they were designed to do... but this is off topic now.

If you want a reliable R34 GTR with 600HP, the answer is buy a 911 GT3, because that is what it takes lol.

Funny you say that as a mate with a r34 800hp sequential is about to sell and get the porsche. The GT3 is generations ahead and does everything much nicer. 
*I have driven the GT3 pdk and been in said r34 a lot.  Porsche gt3 > R34800hp gtr

[hattori hanzo]

bolt on GTX35 or 6262

E85

 

good to go

 

[Robzilla32]

Plenty of good reading in this thread. Gives me lots of ideas on how to make myself poorer.

[bigboss59400]

Thanks a lot guys for your reply

 

The goal here is to have a reliable car that will not explod at the first lap of track and not the fastest one...

I know there are more performant car now in the range of price of the r34 gtr but that's not what I want.

 

I don't want to sound rud or whatever but can we please go back to my questions please ?

 

- Ideal oil Temp transmission part

What are the ideal and max temp for gearbox, transfer case, rear and front diff ?

- Valves

Regarding valves, yes I saw the topic, if I'm not mistaken the mafia went with the HKS to solve the problem

So I don't know if the HKS springs would be sufficient for 30psi with 8k-8.5k max rpm ?

Considering HKS cam are 31mm base, should I buy TOMEI lifter and machine down 0.5 to use stock size of shims ? or can I just use bigger shims ? I'm afraid of popping shim out with bigger shims ?

- Fans

All right, I will go with the metal jacket then, it should be enough indeed

- Exhaust

The tomei was already on the car when I bought it that's why

I will check next time it's dissasembled but from what I recall there aren't any restricition even in the muffler

- supertec spline drive with which oil pump ? or nitto sine oil pump ?

Well they are also making these spline gears for TOMEI, JUN,HKS, N1, NISMO housing

But looks like NITTO is the way to go ?

-Block

new stock 05U block + PRP brace main cap or should I go BILLET + brace ? (I don't think billet is necessary here)

nitto stroker kit 2.8 with wide bearing V2 or nitto stoker kit 2.7 V1 ? I prefer to have a 2.7 stroker but I like the idea of wider bearing...                   

 

Thanks for all

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

On 21/07/2022 at 2:24 AM, bigboss59400 said:

- supertec spline drive with which oil pump ? or nitto sine oil pump ?

Well they are also making these spline gears for TOMEI, JUN,HKS, N1, NISMO housing

But looks like NITTO is the way to go ?

Just get a Nitto oil pump and call it a day. Many worked cars used them without issue. I also moved to a Nitto oil pump myself and oil pressure has been fantastic across the RPM range.

 

[bigboss59400]

Thanks a lot I will go with nitto then 

- valves 

There aren't any lifter for 31mm circle base cam and looking into hks vcam datasheet and Jun cam specs. They still use the stock lifter so I will stay with the stock dimension lifter 

Regarding springs I will go with Jun (65psi and standard lift ), should be a bit harder than hks (around 55psi from the mafia )

 

so here are the remaining questions :

- new stock 05U block + PRP brace main cap or should I go BILLET + brace ? (I don't think billet is necessary here)

- nitto stroker kit 2.8 with wide bearing V2 or nitto stoker kit 2.7 V1 ? I prefer to have a 2.7 stroker but I like the idea of wider bearing...                   

 

Edited July 21, 2022 by bigboss59400

[Piggaz]

Why a 2.7 over a 2.8? 🧐

[burn4005]

I have a 655whp r34 gtr that i track a bit so I have a bit of experience here.

my engine setup is:

forged 2.6 with sump vented to catch can along with cam cover ports, 1.3mm restrictor for head

Crank Trigger (THIS IS A MUST to get the most out of the engine)

Stock fan is best, it just makes it sound like a landcruiser, deal with it.

85mm HKS super turbo exhaust with a 3.5" dump. I had the Cat flange cut off which is 76mm and replaced with a 3.5" one at it flows the power fine with the wastegate plumbed in. would shit it in with a screamer pipe

1650cc bosch injectors (these really flow 1420cc at 3 bar for me, but are at ~80%DC

Tomei Pump and a 9L baffled sump (this doesn't work well even over-filled with sticky tyres, so much so I have a loud warning alarm to tell me its getting low and to back off before it becomes a problem that engine protection functions activate.

EFR8374 1.05A/R with a 6 boost divided manifold and 50mm progate (perfect track turbo. very responsive. I am at 127k rpm max speed at 8300rpm and 26psi at 492wkw.

ATS carbon twin plate. I love this thing. not very strong when cold which means it slips nice when warming car up but amazing once its hot and you are on it and holds the power fine. extremely light plates (190g) so easy on your syncros.

4" thick G-reddy tube-fin intercooler. works fine

25 row setrab 625 cooler ducted in wheel arch (lasts 5 laps of QR before overheating)

Kelford beehive springs (these are the springs you should be using)

Tomei 9.15mm 260 cams (these have done the job, but I would be using Kelford 182-B or 182-S if its a new build. my head has been clearanced to allow larger cams in future if needed.

48mm Koyo Radiator with a (swirl pot tank connected to top of radiator and head bleed point, and down into lower rad hose)

a Peirburg E3LM fuel pump in tank running at 17.5v with a range rover FPCM for speed control and boost-a-pump voltage booster with a large hydromat on the floor as pickup and the return flowing onto it (don't do this, the hydramat helps but below 1/4 I still get fuel surge on track. street is however fine. the correct solution to be neat these days is a Radium in-tank surge tank kit.

 

the lessons for me are:

if you want to circuit drive on semi slicks, a dry sump and a surge tank are a must.

you will get oil pressure problems. I have a tomei pump and a 9L gated sump and I have oil pressure issues (with ECU power cuts if it gets low. an accusump is a bandaid and as hard to install neatly as a dry sump tank. if you're going all out then dry sump it.

I have a 25 row setrab in the passenger wheel well using the Nismo ducting. the car gets hot (120c+) after 4 or 5 laps at QR. you need a bigger cooler if you want to go longer, but you're tyres will give up around this point so its fine for me.

unless you run slicks your tyres (and probably brakes) will be shot after 4 or 5 laps and need to cool down.

you will 100% need a fuel surge tank.

a coolant swirl pot is a very very good idea. removes any air/vapour from the engine constantly.

Castrol SRF fluid for the brakes. its expensive but you'll never go back.

you will actually drive like a bitch on the track now your car is worth $200-300k and isn't really designed to do it, and 500kw at the wheels is a real handful despite how good you think you can steer, especially after lap 3 when your semi slicks start to complain. a Porsche GT3 is a much better tool.

 

Edited July 21, 2022 by burn4005