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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Don't give up VCT, worse thing to do. GTR owners are paying thousands to retrofit them to their RB26 motors. Purpose of the car: track work, drift, might dabble in roll racing too. Goal: 4k of usable RPM.
  2. I have basic Tomei 260º/ 9.15mm cams going in with a Hypergear 45SAT (ceramic BB version) going on. Should make a modest 400~420kW at the wheels.
  3. 1st sentence of 2nd paragraph. Coolant could be anything from radiator to hear exchange to BHG.
  4. I've got a set installed on a motor I'm slapping together as well. 85lb seat pressure with titanium retainers because I was upsold by my mate LOL. Will spin the motor to 9k RPM, will have a balanced crank and Spool Import billet oil pump gears along with matching pump collar. Funny part is, will be on stock rods, stock pistons with ACL Race conrod bearings. #wishmeluck
  5. Convert to a single turbo, twin gates, twin scroll. Will be better than any set of twins, with 6+6 or 11 blades on the compressor side. Twins on a GT-R is a fail. Even BMW went to a TS turbo on their N55 motor.
  6. o2 correction will be still applied, they are the cells highlighted in that teal/green-ish colour, the best way to see if they are doing anything is by looking at the Short-term & Long-term Fuel trim graphs. If they're on '0' and your AFRs are stupid rich, try dropping the latency a little bit - however if the injections don't like low pulsewidths then you're going to massive issues with light load / moderate RPM cruise.. it will buckle and splutter.
  7. Could do close to 400kW but those valve springs are very soft and you'll end up with valve lift. Has happened to 2x SRs I've tuned with big boost. Torque/power falls on its face when you add boost and the motor hesitates as though it's misfiring. New springs in, problem gone.
  8. You can enable Alpha-N flag which will squirt extra fuel based on the TPS voltage change, I've never used this feature on any Nissan I've tuned on Nistune but I suspect with the GTR and 6 ITBs you get air into the cylinders before the AFM(s) are able to register a change. I think this "may" only be available on the Feature Pack version of Nistune as I've only recently noticed it. Try setting the idle cells to 0 and also change the possible minimum TP Load. Also disable the o2 correction on those cells (usually bottom 4) by highlighting them and pressing O (for octopus).
  9. They should be adjusted the same so you'll end up with equal castor on each side. If you're installing it as so you'll have one side with like 6degrees of castor and one side with 4 degrees of castor (numbers made up)
  10. Yeah, see if a R33/S14 fuel tank hat/lid is the same size. Use that - easier.
  11. Credit: http://forums.nicoclub.com/rb25-haltech-and-fuel-system-upgrades-t557106.html A bit extreme, but you get the idea
  12. People have drilled out R34/S15 tank hats before as they might be restrictive. Or, if sizing permits, use a R33/S14 tank hats.
  13. How long is the run? Because there will be a significant voltage drop if it's 16GA from the engine bay to the fuel pump. Small wire, higher resistance, more heat, energy loss during transmission (well not lost, it's converted into heat - laws of conservation of energy).
  14. A bit thin, theoretic max current on 16ga is 22amps. I run 12ga because I had it lying around from my subwoofer wiring about a decade ago when I chased dBs instead of kWs
  15. And what a waste of money for 0.01% performance gain. Save your money for a single turbo with a divided rear housing and a proper twin scroll manifold. I'm assuming you're American.
  16. still.. many GT-R boys will sads
  17. So much epics in that S13, does it still run VCT?
  18. Throw your American Spal shit into the bin. Install the OEM shroud, OEM fan blade and a good condition fan viscous hub. Raced my car last summer is 38+ Celsius degree water, water temperature never exceeded 110 degrees. And I'm sure my car made heaps more power than yours.
  19. and higher chances of you splitting old 20 year old heater hoses and/or crack apart your heater core, best solution is OEM cap, OEM thermostat and an awesome radiator.
  20. car runs a Nistune with feature pack, I say jack up the FPR to 4 bar run flex fuel
  21. Not to mention now you have decreased surface area between pad and rotor. You'll find say a T2 slotted/cross drilled rotor will perform worse than a T3 4000 plain as their cooling channels are just basic straight lines where as the T3 uses that "kangaroo paw" BS which increases surface area aiding in cooling dramatically as the rotor moves.
  22. Buy some BCPR7ES gap them to 0.6mm see how you go.
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