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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. KiwiRS4T
    Get a wideband and check the actual afrs. They may be rich or lean but unlikely to be right. If they are wrong you can either put standard injectors back in or get an aftermarket ecu and a tune (or work out a Nistune solution with an R32 or Z32 ecu. If your injectors are bigger than stock an fpr is not the way to tune.
  2. KiwiRS4T
    We have eight electric cars now. A service is a $100 annual event. There are no clutches or transmissions. Well not as we know them. Using power regeneration to slow down means brake wear is minimal. Tyres would be the main consumable. Of course things will eventually have to be repaired. Mechanics will just have a different set of skills. When I was an apprentice I learned how to bend the spring retainers in the distributor to alter the timing curve. Not much of that going on now...
  3. KiwiRS4T
    I would advise against. I trailered my car to the tuner, got him to fit the Link and do the initial run in while he was tuning it on the dyno.
  4. KiwiRS4T
    Any brakes on the trailer? I haven't had a look under the back of an M35 but from other posts it seems you need to be very careful to reinforce places where you bolt the tow bar up. I would take the risk, driving very carefully, but be aware of the potential weakness.
  5. KiwiRS4T
    France will not register any new IC powered cars after 2030. All of the main car manufacturers are racing to provide all electric models although research into other alternatives continues. China is already producing 100s of thousands of electric cars and they and their batteries will only get better. Where is the power coming from? In NZ we are lucky to be able to produce all of our requirements from renewable sources but in countries like Australia many alternatives are being pursued. China is producing more efficient solar panels and the energy from the sun (let alone the wind and the tides) is not going to run out in the foreseeable future. Anybody who thinks that climate change will not drastically affect our driving experiences is living in a bubble. Big horsepower (or possibly any mint) skylines will be true collectors' items!
  6. KiwiRS4T
    Wow that's about NZ$50K so not cheap! Looks very good though.
  7. KiwiRS4T
    https://www.google.co.nz/search?tbm=isch&q=garratt+V+flange+dimensions&chips=q:garratt+v+flange+dimensions,online_chips:v+band&usg=AI4_-kTdQEC2ysQ5R7vP-AFb0KImIDnaEg&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjApsLV_6vhAhUJeH0KHWPcDt0Q4lYIMCgH&biw=1920&bih=966&dpr=1
  8. KiwiRS4T
    Does this car have a power assisted clutch pedal?
  9. KiwiRS4T
    Sounds like the wastegate is fine but there may be a problem with the actuator. The solenoid is unlikely to be the problem. You could short out the lines leading to the solenoid to check. Can you find another Neo powered car to check under the bonnet (although almost everybody modifies the boost in some way)?
  10. KiwiRS4T
    Getting confused. This is not a GTR but an RB25DET - plumbing looks far from stock...unless the R34 Neo is different to the R33.
  11. KiwiRS4T
    Only if you use stainless as steel will disintegrate after a while. If ports are not marked they are presumably all the same. Its a pity the baffled and filtered on is so small as I would consider 2L a minimum size.
  12. KiwiRS4T
    Gidday! 370 not as exciting as an RB but much more value for money. If you want more grunt (and fuel consumption ) the Nissan Fuga 450GT sport is a few more $$$
  13. KiwiRS4T
    There's quite a few specialist Nissan wreckers so hop on to Google and send them all an email. Hmm if you haven't already got one that is....
  14. KiwiRS4T
    Interesting question. Actually dynos were often called "rolling roads" and they date back to a primitive version developed in 1820. Of course computers are a more recent development and before that they did things that some still do such as using listening devices to hear detonation and vacuum gauges to tune carbies (remember carbies?). And of course road testing with a stop watch.
  15. KiwiRS4T
    http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/valve-suit-nissan-200sx-skyline-gts25-rb25de-sr20det-p-1479.html
  16. KiwiRS4T
    He's in Norway. Highly doubt the O2 sensor was the cause of your problems.. What gap are you running on your plugs (or sparks as you call them over there)?
  17. KiwiRS4T
    Good plan. I have at one point run 2 catch cans until I worked out a better set up. Some of the Japanese race cars used to run an air oil separator as well as a catch can although a modern air oil separator can make the catch can superfluous (at a much greater cost). But final output should be to the intake not to atmosphere.
  18. KiwiRS4T
    Your cold start problem is probably down to the tune...or if you have dirty injectors take them out and get them tested and cleaned. If they are dirty you will fix the problem . If they are not try the tune.
  19. KiwiRS4T
    Focus! Do the test properly. Start the car from cold when you don't have a kid to pick up 5 minutes later and drive it until it has fully warmed up. If the fault does not happen then you know it needs a new sensor. If it does happen you have not spent a lot of time and money eliminating a possible cause.
  20. KiwiRS4T
    Most Nismo stuff is rebadged from other manufacturers so you probably have genuine Nismo wheels made by Rays Engineering. My Bilsteins were labelled "Nismo". Nismo oil is supplied by Motul. I'll give you $100 for the set if you pay freight?
  21. KiwiRS4T
    You shouldn't have stopped the car. If you unplug the sensor the ecu has a default map which has no relation to actual engine temps which will take it through until normal operating temps. By stopping the car you reset the ecu to cold start whereas the engine was no longer cold. I suggest you get a new temp sensor (the one with 2 terminals) - they are only about $30 from an auto electrician. And there is no way you can tell if your yellow jackets are any good by looking at them. Try gapping your plugs down to 0.8mm or even .6mm
  22. KiwiRS4T
    Disconnect the water temp sensor that goes to the ecu (the one with 2 terminals) when you turn the car off. Start again when the car is cold (overnight ideally).. If your car runs better (ecu has a standby map) then you need to replace that sensor.
  23. KiwiRS4T
    I got a set of Bilsteins for my C34 Stagea with Tein springs but being in NZ didn't have ready access to SK so they were not re-valved but was still a great suspension.
  24. KiwiRS4T
    Is it an auto? If so could be from the heat exchanger in the bottom of the radiator. Have you got water in the oil? Blown head gasket?
  25. KiwiRS4T
    What are you trying to achieve? If you want to test it pull the plug out and see if the car starts and idles better. If you want to get rid of it the answer is as above.
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