GTSBoy

Physically it's all the same, except that Neo is push clutch and 30 is pull, so you will need to sort that out.

Full face Extreme is a sensible choice. Mantic is 50/50 on whether people think they're great or suck balls.

Trace the wet up to where it comes from. It is not unusual for the water pump to start to leak at the shaft seal, sometimes even at the gasket. These things need to be replaced every so often. The PS pump could be leaking from it's shaft seal, from a hose connection or a body seal. You know what fluids are leaking, you know what they are supposed to be kept inside. You just need to find out where they are getting out.

Bah. One is a bastardised BMW that will have all sorts of expensive and shitty mechanical problems courtesy of being a BMW. The other is a Renault/Nissan, of which there have been precisely zero desirable cars made in the entire relationship, on either side.

Yuh, the one labelled AUDIO.

You have to be careful with N1 pumps. They used to be a good thing. Then there was a period of time where they were apparently not from the original factory/stock and there were a lot of failures. I'm not sure where they are at right now. The 25Neo oil pump is an original N1.

Strictly speaking, you don't really need to do anything for your power level and usage model. Except maybe the recommended restrictors. Particularly for your plan, I would not consider drilling the oil returns. If the engine will be apart, I might radius the top ends a little. If you want to do anything useful for breathing and oil return, a hose connecting from above oil level in sump up to the cam covers is the right idea. This is described very nicely in the last 100 pages or so of the oil control thread. Also so easy to do if the engine will be apart anyway. Any good pump upgrade is a good idea. If the engine is apart, it makes sense to look into the pump drive and make sure that whoever is putting it together isn't a f**kwit.

1 minute of searching on here. https://cdn.sau.com.au/post-7461-1238892012.jpg

Is it too obvious to say it's in the fusebox?

You better post up what you f**ked up in the hope that the next bunny finds it when they do the same.

The first rule of timing belts is, if you don't know when it was last changed, change it. Water pump too. Seals, bearings, etc are not subject to that rule. If they look fine, they are fine and you needn't bother. If the thermostat is working and the coolant is clean, no need to open that either.

Coax for a phone antenna probably.

Most of those workshops are building drag cars and a rear oil drain is gravitationally attractive. I'm personally of the opinion that there are valid reasons for ever-so-slightly enlarging the oil drains in the block. At the very least, radiusing and smoothing the tops (and maybe bottoms) of them can't hurt. A more vague thing is that a machined hole in a casting is stronger than an as cast hole. The cutting/machining leaves a surface that is slightly toughened and less likely to crack. The problem in this context is only drilling out such a tiny amount (so as not to remove material that is critical to block strength) yet still provide a machined surface, not one that's just "rubbed" by the bit. Anyway, I think when you're getting to those considerations you're either building a gold plated motor and so have a bajillion dollars to spend on everything, or you are building a gold plated motor and so have a bajillion dollars to buy new blocks.

When you finish the oil control thread you will come to the realisation that the rear oil drain is no such thing and there are better ways to do it. This involves Running a decent sized hose from the top of the sump (fresh hole + fitting) to the cam covers. The main thing about doing ANYTHING about oil drains is that it is not so much places for the oil to go down that you are creating, as much as places for the crankcase gases to come up. When the gases are coming up and the oil is trying to go down, through the same smallish holes (in the block) then the oil loses and gets blown up. If you increase the area available for the gases, the velocities decrease and the oil has a chance to go down where it is supposed to. So it is actually easier and better to put in hoses to take care of the gas than it is to try to squeeze oil back in through a disused turbo oil drain.

Do you want us to tell you where to put your fingers?

Um, the comp version of the Nismo is <$50 more and >100kW more. I know which one I would buy if I was looking at 400rwkW. This is just me harping on a subject that I have little direct experience with though. So listen to the others ref the Extreme. I have an Extreme clutch behind my Neo, but it is a baby clutch, so not relevant. Except inasmuch as it did have a mechanical problem years after I bought it and Extreme covered something like half the replacement cost, even though it was well used. They are good people.

I just realised that the "No." I typed above looks like I am saying "No", when what was intended was "Number".

Carefully.

No. 14075N. I can see that happening.

It's an uncontrolled vacuum leak while cruising (which is when the ECU will open the solenoid). You should fix it. Just superglue it back on then put some epoxy around it for strength.

Isn't the standard answer to this question Nismo Supercoppermix?

That's the purge control solenoid. If you followed one or the other of those lines, you would end up at the charcoal canister. The other line should go to the plenum. You can see that someone has already superglued that broken connection back together in the past.

Had a look see. The middle hose actually goes down to a nipple that comes off the heater hose offtake. At the very back lower corner of the inlet manifold there is a heater hose sized nipple sticking out sideways, pointing more or less at the bottom of the brake booster. There is another smaller nipple off the back of that, facing towards the firewall. That's where the middle hose goes.

No, because you can't see down there. It's a tangled mess of hoses. You've got the heater hoses both there, plus a couple of others. I can take a look and see if I can work out exactly which line it hooks up to. I think it is the steel tube that comes around the back of the engine from the turbo. There are drawings in the manual that show these pipe and hoses.

There's no cons on the S14 except that it's not a Skyline. I wouldn't trust those kms on the S14 either. Car is 25 years old. Where has it been all that time? The only problem with S14s is that the diff will be viscous LSD at best, and the driveshafts have tripod style CVs (not quite as good as proper CVs). But these things can be easily changed.