Duncan

well a common problem these days is the nitrogen cannister loosing pressuring requiring the attessa pump to run continuously which may mean the actuator is not fully engaging. anyway, I don't actually know how fixed the standard system was designed to be. SInce you were on a 4wd dyno, did they mention the concern because other cars they have run on it were noticably more consistent? Other than actuation issues (you would expect the computer to want max front torque on a dyno because it is 100% wheel slip), they are basically an auto trans inside with wet clutches so it is possible there is a mechanical issue in the transfer case too like worn clutches. I'd have to say that if my street car had 4wd varying by 10% in extreme conditions personally I wouldnt lose a moment's sleep. Different in a race car or if you genuinely need a perfect 4wd system for regular snow driving or something,

you really need an appropriately sized pin punch and a bigger hammer

Yeah you need to remove the roll pin that holds the shifter receiver onto the rail. Bonus points if you don't knock the pin into the transfer case and never see it again

Excellent info, thanks!

It will be a blue relay above the ECU. If there are 2, one is the ignition and the other is ECCS (ECU power) But what exactly is the input you need? Just ignition on (from the key) or something else?

Try white hot motorsport on facebook?

2wd and 4wd front ends are totally different (strut vs wishbone). Best to just make a custom setup for the ABS sender if it is that important

And adapters are specific to a source model and target disc size, so your specific combination may not exist off the shelf

About bloody time for an overdue intro! I reckon we crossed paths back in the day; I had my blue r33 gtst up there for about 18 months when I worked down at the base in 2003-04. Used to love the commute to work, no speed limits or traffic (unless I was going at the same time as all the buses). Damn hard to find 98 octane though, if I remember right there was only 1 BP that sold it, for any price they wanted.

Good work to weigh both

lol thanks Ben and no stitches Yes, best way to have anything actioned by mods is to use the report button. And no, we removed the edit feature (including attachments) long time back due to scammers.

There really isnt a big difference in pressure with a 1.3 bar cap, so if using one causes leaks, it is time to replace the hoses anyway as they are on their way out (or, even easier, hose clamps might just need to be nipped up a little tighter.

yeah that's exactly why I was wondering. stock pump and not happening under sustained high revs means it is unlikely to be a "too much oil in the head" issue, just a "oil shifting in the sump under high g" issue....it obviously goes ok overfilling should be fine until you have a reason to open the engine

Great to hear that the oil pressure warning was doing it's job. What sump, baffles and oil pump, what is the oil breathing setup, and was anything done around block oil returns or cam cover baffles?

great outcome from the engine these cars should have left the factory with let us know how it goes once you lean on it a bit.

The easiest way to deal with 12mm bolts in a 14mm hole is a 14mm outer diameter , 1mm thick spacer tube. I don't think you are talking about 14mm bolts in a 12mm hole, but if you are, yes you can just drill out the hub, but if you need to drill out the caliper you would also have to tap it to M14 and the right thread pitch which is a big tap. Or, buy a kit that fits like I suggested above, or at least go r34 gtt brakes which will be the right size (but this option can add up between second hand calipers, new discs, new pads, and either keep old brake lines or buy new ones)

Sorry I might have missed this, but you had this apart the valves were bent? Either way, if you can see cross hatches in the bore then it was probably rebuilt reasonably recently. Assembling a bottom end is not rocket science, particularly with the manual available (although i've learned through experience to always double check the measurements). All the machining (and preferably cleaning) needs to go to a machine shop. You'll need new rings, big end and main bearings, spiggot bush, rear main and crank seals and all gaskets. Consider putting in a new oil pump too. However, since it had good compression, didn't burn oil and bores looked clean, I would not be doing anything with the bottom end.

Putting aside the tuner's responsibility... You need to look at the top of #3 piston to decide how much damage it is. Every engine with a few klm on it will be pretty dirty so clean it up with a scotch brite pad and see what the damage looks like. Assuming it looks OK, next question is, how many klm on the engine, when you say the compression is "really good", what do you mean, and does it smoke or use oil. If all of those point to the bottom end being in good condition, leave it as is and just replace the timing belt etc, head back on and cross your fingers. If there is any sign the bottom end is tired, now is definitely the time to deal with it, pull it out, disassemble, measure and put at least new rings and bearings in

You want these, or equivalent https://justjap.com/catalog/product/view/id/20578/s/attkd-brake-kit-nissan-skyline-r34-99-02/category/2868/ Everything is new including brake lines, pads, discs, and they are well made and well tested Just contact them first to confirm they will fit NA R34 (I expect they will), and what the minimum size wheels are. I run these on my Cima and Stagea, and have used them on my race car (with different pads), have found them reliable and good value.

Firstly, there is nothing wrong with a PFC, they've been reliably running rbs for decades. Yes there are newer ECUs with additional features but a PFC is able to run it perfectly until you start to get pretty highly modified. The afm curve is not really that important. Pick whatever is closest and then just tune it. Basically your fuel map is based on whatever the AFM is telling it for load, so whatever it is set to when you tune is fine. Just don't change it after you tune it! If you are trying to put back an unknown AFM curve so your tune will be OK again, you are out of luck. Even 1% different to the original curve can be enough to make the tune unsafe. FWIW I do have the rb26 data for standard, vg30, vh41, power intake and the calculated result I used for nismo afms per GTSBoy's approach because I went through that (turns out vg30 and nismo afms are not exactly the same after all) but it was pre-tuning, and it was never really worth the effort because you still just tune the result the same way

It's just a stud in a thread, but it could be seized. Couple of tricks -spray well with penetrating oil over a day or 3 -heat often loosens these things, eg a 15sec with a blow torch -with a nut just protruding, give it a firm hit with a hammer to loosen the threads. if it is the lock nut coming undone from the 2nd nut you need to tighten them. If you think there is too much force and they still are not turning, try those 3 tricks

This is a really simple question....but did you centre the rack before putting the steering wheel on?

reading out of order! good finding. missing a 1 on the tensioner stud

actually, I seem to have the tensioner stud part (13073-V5001) but not the idler bolt. please double check before trusting the internet!

well, sorry to bring bad news, but at least you know before it's all back together. I'd strongly recommend you change the bolt and stud that hold the idler and tensioner at the same time. There have been instances of old bolt snapping which throws the timing belt off, and will result in piston/valve damage in the engine.