Duncan

Yeah it is very tight getting the lines into some cores and I'm not surprised a generic kit doesn't always fit perfectly since depending on turbo and manifold combinations. In my case I used an AN extension which I had to bolt on before installing the turbo and then changed one of the hose ends from straight to 45o to keep the line away from the compressor cover. You really should either head sleeve or replace the rubber oil return too, it won't last long with all the heat down there

Can you bypass the damper as well, it can also fail

well....I'm no turbo selection expert so I'll leave that to others, looks like you've got what you need from a supporting mods side though including the twin scroll manifold; that means you really want a twin scroll turbo to not waste the advantage, it will make the same boost/power a couple of hundred rpm sooner than a single scroll turbo

Hey Eric, it will help to put your location in your profile. 91 Octane is the lowest quality fuel available in Australia so I'm thinking maybe you mean US 91 not Australian

Not much info in that request..... If you have a VIN you could look up the factory part number here: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan

pfft that's not a crash

that looks identical to the WGNC34 Stagea one I was poking around the other day. Is the other end of that not the ECU plug? If so checking continuity at both ends will tell you which ECU wire it is. I can start by telling you ECU pin 31 is the top of the large pins on the right in your second pic

Bit late....but the one on my stagea has additional holes too, it is for clearance of the bolt heads which hold the radiator latch upright to the radiator support (ie, they are not to locate the panel)

Which ECU model are you using (standard?) What ECU type is is, 2 or 3 rows of pins?

no way in the world does the same strut brace fit both, they are totally different width, PCD, angle for the strut tops. also the M35 would need to be way higher to come up and over

Does the passenger vanity mirror have a light?

Mostly likely it is blowby....past the rings, through the crank, straight through the catch can and out the breather so there is no evidence it ever happened. I know the compression test was good but that is really the only way to loose oil without any (much) evidence, assuming nothing is plumbed back into the intake of course. It would be interesting to see if the cold compression test is much different as that could be when it is getting through the rings Still....just fill it up and keep going if it makes good power, a lot of higher power RBs are built with loose piston clearances and use a bit of oil as a result

Yeah the question is really too broad, it depends what you want to do with it. R and S chassis are still good for club racing, but I'm retiring my 32 GTR from rally because I just can't get hold of body parts (at any price) if a repair is needed. It is still outright competitive but not practical any more

Before worrying too much about what to do....most likely the transfer case just got hot from all the work and has been pushing fluid out the breather. Just start with a full fluid change with some nice synthetic auto trans oil (and have a good look at the oil that comes out). The xfer cases can be rebuilt if necessary, don't worry too much about swapping unless you need it back on the road the next day. BTW the gearbox and transfer case are separate (or at least, separate-able) so you you can keep your current trans and swap a new xfer case onto it if needed. I should add, you probably have access to options we don't like Q50/60/70 AWD boxes too, I bet the xfer case interchanges

Not impossible but unlikely, I changed it at the same time I changed the fan. Aftermarket of course, Nissan wanted more than a R34 Nur for a genuine one

I'm running the Gtech fan in the Stagea, it overheats just the same as it used to with a stock fan Using an n1 water pump on a road car was a bad idea but I've never got around to pulling everything apart and changing it *edit* specifically, if it is idling on a hot day, it keeps getting hotter until I chicken out and turn it off. If I keep the revs above 2000 it cools down again

It's worth looking at Neil's garage thread, he was super organised (as you'd expect). He had a simple bunnings narrow shelving rack with tubs, each tub numbered, each number had a manifest. Of course, only about half the parts had made it to that system, and he had random stuff from old projects like kawasaki triples and even a Bultaco (a wtf? I said). I really don't want to throw stuff like that because it is irreplaceable, but it's also hard to know who could use it without spending a heap of time I don't have on research. Not co-incidentally, I've recently decided to try and move on some parts too, either random non-skyline stuff like S13 axles or anything R32 that I had more than 2 spares of (yes, I have a lot of space and a lot of spares). Most of the stuff is on commercial racking which is too deep for practical use for loose spares. Where possible stuff is in plastic tubs (various sizes) to keep critters from eating them. The whole place is a disaster for the poor person who has to clean it out when I'm gone. For the R32 spares, I aim to have one ready to go spare (eg rebuilt gearbox, engine, driveshafts, hubs, control arms etc) and one ready to prep spare. Even so I've ended up with lots of 3rd or more spares and I'd rather see someone else keep their car on the road. Also I've ended up with some interior stuff like boot trims and floor mats I'll never need. So, I'm about to re-enter the painful world of online selling. I'm not on facebook (and won't be) so that is not an option, I'll start a thread on here for R32 stuff and people who need something can find it. I don't really need to throw anything for space reasons, but I somehow doubt the Greddy Rebec III will be in high demand. Oh, and I've got heaps of bench space and heaps of racking.....but still the bench is covered in half done or about to start jobs, I really need to get it better under control but time is an issue

This is the current antenna, 4g bands are the ones I'm after, particularly the Telstra long range one which I think is 850Mhz? It has an SMA connector to a 3 way splitter, one runs to the Cel Fi and 2 to a USB 4g wifi stick The problem is not the antenna, the problem is that the V37 has a slightly smaller gap between the rear windshield and the body which prevents the line from being tucked away under it as it was in the Fuga. Therefore, I have about a meter of cable that I can't adequately secure running down the outside of the car to enter the boot....I figure I need to use a roof mount antenna instead and run the cable inside the car The other option I'll look at is removing the factory shark fin (which I assume is factory GPS, which is crap, I use TomTom app on my phone) and I'll bet there is already a hole in the roof under that I could use. Any alternative approach is very much welcome!

Did a little bit on the V37 today. I bought this LED kit out of the US https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/125953603618. Best I could find online but didn't look great, in the end the quality was pretty much right and it did come with locations for each light including rear number plate and a few spares. The factory owners' manual was also useful with information on where to pop each light out without damage. I prefer the LED look as I use it daily including at night and the LEDs are both brighter and the white light is easier to read with. Vanity mirror comparison, LEDs just look more modern The glove box was the only difficult one (and the only one that was previously blown.....), steps were Open glovebox 50% but not fully open Push up on bottom of the box to unclip it on both side, not screws or pins to remove Remove the top stays at an angle, right side then left, because.... Before dropping the glovebox totally, remove soft close clip on left Then, remove 7 screws to release the glovebox surround Twist the globe holder anti clock to release it from the surround In this case, the LED globe supplied was wider than factory and did not fit, so I ground down each side about 1mm then inserted it Last trick, start engine to check the LED polarity is correct, the globe only operates when the engine is running (whether the box is open or closed) I also moved the 4G booster and wifi across from the Fuga, a little frustrating as I could not find a good Accessories ACC source anywhere in the boot so I'll run a wire from the cabin next time I get a chance. Also, unlike the Fuga the external antenna wire does not quite fit between the rear windscreen and the body so I think I'll have to drill a hole in the roof to mount it. Probably not that interesting for most people so I'll just post once complete

Pretty sure I could do but it would need to be exported and reimported as the current import approval is race only. But in practice there are plenty of other practical reasons it can't be a road car despite their potential value these days like stripped interior looms, cage to cut out etc Nah, no mods to it other than updating the roll age to current regs. It makes about 350 (laggy) kilowatts on the N1s at 18psi which is enough to push it around the place

No, I can't return it to street use, for a start it is not complied as it came in race/rally. But more importantly I could never sell it after all the blood sweat and tears that went into it (mostly blood). I'll still run it at selected events, eg its awesome fun at Bathurst, but not stuff like tarmac rallies where the likelihood of minor to major damage is much higher

nah the heater hoses are fine, I just use the dump pipe as a booster until the coolant warms up

It's not that at all....I just love the R chassis too much to keep racing it! Absolutely impossible to fix the damn thing if I bend it.... That last off I had (when I neglected to do what Kel said), we removed a gum tree with the side of the boot....needed a new rear quarter, boot lid, floor straighten, rear bar, front bar, both front guards, radiator, bov return and I still haven't got it back for a proper alignment to check it is actually straight again). There are just too many ways in tarmac rally to do significant damage to a car that you can't really get parts for.

Now I'd said earlier I'd checked the fuses, and per @Stick180's suggestion I checked them all again. The check was to use the multimeter in continuity mode on the top of each fuse where the little metal tabs are available for that purpose. All good....except that very "A/T Control" fuse was actually blown when I pulled it out and looked at it. Put it back in, tested it again, there is continuity to both sides even though the fuse is blown. I'll need someone smarter than me, but my suspicion is that I was getting a circuit through a power supply, through an incandescent globe somewhere, to earth, to the shorted wire and back to the other side of the fuse, making it look like the fuse was OK when it wasn't....please anyone that understands this f**kery explain it to me. Bottom line....that suspicious purple/white wire, in an undamaged factory loom, that goes to the the wrong place in the fuse box has a dead short to earth, confirmed from both ends. How a single wire in a factory loom can be shorted, especially the best protected loom in the whole car (underneath the top of the dash) is going to keep me awake at night because surely whatever caused the damage has (or will) damaged other wires in that loom too. So, to finish this long and sad story....cut the purple/white wire where it exits the fuse box, ran a new wire from there to the ECU loom pin 31, fired it up and drove happily into the sunset. Only 4 days of head scratching and peering into footwells to get me there. Another collection of wire removed (in addition to the earlier photo) and a bunch of 10a fuses that gave their lives for the trouble shooting....thank you for their service. And, since the car was in the shed I resealed the cam cover (first time I've ever had a new seal leak on an RB, but the Stagea is that kind of lucky), and I put in the boost doc cam splash plates to try and turn down the blow by a bit while I was there. Which, was all good because it also let me find the slow coolant leak, turns out it was from the turbo water supply which I nipped up again (the banjo bolt got new washers, and I tightened the hose end and hose to banjo fitting while I was there)

So, as it turns out, a new wire was the answer I went for, but getting there was not straightforward... Firstly, I'd been told before by shops that had worked on the car that it had some weird factory wiring, and I can now confirm that is true in at least a couple of places. For example....that very purple/white wire that provides IGN power to ECU pin 31.....I traced it out of the ECU loom into a connector high on the nav's A pillar under the dash, where it headed up and out of site across the dash, then back down at driver's A pillar. After trying about 8 different relays I found it coming into the back of the fuse box, and confirmed it was the same wire with a multimeter* (more to follow on that.... So, which fuse is the ECU IGN power connected to in my car? Very top right, labelled IGN (good), 10A (good), Auto Trans Control (WTF?). It's not impossible it has been f**ked with before, but if so someone removed the pins from the back of the fuse box and moved it somewhere else, noting an AT control fuse would be functionally useless as the car was auto converted to manual long ago. It is not simply a wire cut and joined to the wrong place, both ends of the wire are the same colour just one is in the wrong location (you can see there is an IGN Engine Control fuse in the bottom row 4th from the right. Note, that is the fuse box sticker from my actual car, so either I have the wrong coin holder sticker, someone f**ked with it post factory, or factory sticker does not match the wiring.....whichever option it is just plain weird. Undermining the likelihood of someone having gone to that trouble to move a power feed when everything else in the loom had already been butchered....the fuse next to it IGN 7.5a ABS doesn't even have a wire running to it....so no idea where that fuse is on this car. All strange. But not the problem with my ECU power.