Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Atm, me and 4bidn1 have removed hypergear G3 and sent if of to get new design rear turbine wheel, replaced 044/surge tank setup

with intank 460 walbro, shifted Z32 into cooler pipe in a 3 inch alloy tube, and changing water injection system to a air/water atomiser setup

with no pump.

and looks wise have fitted a vented carbon fibre bonnet, just need ganadors now to finish it off..

cheers

darren

Finally took a pick with the Akebono's on. Nice to fill out those rims :)

IMAG03551_zpse1a2a569.jpg

Getting there slowly, bit by bit. Need the other front bar & spoiler fixed & modified next I think, then back to under the bonnet stuff

  • Like 1

Finally took a pick with the Akebono's on. Nice to fill out those rims :)

IMAG03551_zpse1a2a569.jpg

Getting there slowly, bit by bit. Need the other front bar & spoiler fixed & modified next I think, then back to under the bonnet stuff

Looks great Cam; what are your underbonnet plans with this one?

Looks great Cam; what are your underbonnet plans with this one?

Needs the other front bar back on first, this one is the aero-less spare that I modified in my non-pro plasti-welding fashion :unsure:

Planning to chuck on some headers and my decat pipes... but I plan to install hydrogen injection prior to that for a number of reasons, one of which is a reduction in emissions/smell due to a lack of cats.

Still have quite a list of planned changes after those (quite a list actually) so will see how we go...

Edited by iamhe77

Atm, me and 4bidn1 have removed hypergear G3 and sent if of to get new design rear turbine wheel, replaced 044/surge tank setup

with intank 460 walbro, shifted Z32 into cooler pipe in a 3 inch alloy tube, and changing water injection system to a air/water atomiser setup

with no pump.

and looks wise have fitted a vented carbon fibre bonnet, just need ganadors now to finish it off..

cheers

darren

Your new turbo ;) :

comp.JPG

Did 80k service + fitted my de-cat/ed dump pipe. Pretty surprised at how much better it goes, can only imagine how good it would be with a proper aftermarket one.

Now have to install wideband O2 to the front pipe, then it's ready for tuning

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Oi I did ask you and you said they were ok!!! :whistling:

Why can't Cihan print out dyno sheets...LOL

Also, everyone thought I had an air leak somewhere...cos there's a pretty loud hissing noise when it hit boost.

Edited by ironpaw

Why can't Cihan print out dyno sheets...LOL

Also, everyone thought I had an air leak somewhere...cos there's a pretty loud hissing noise when it hit boost.

Cihan can print dyno sheets, when the printer has paper. :P

It's not hard to check for boost leaks, unless you want it done remotely... Drop down mate.

Finally got my gas struts regassed today; no more getting belted in the back of the head when I throw backpackers in the boot.

Guess I'll have to get a bat or something to knock them out now.

  • Like 1

Traded mine in yesterday....

Sad to see it go after 5 years good service, but a 09MY 370GT sedan is helping...

Been a great few days in Melbourne for a 245kW rwd car... :-) missing the AWD already..

Traded mine in yesterday....

Sad to see it go after 5 years good service, but a 09MY 370GT sedan is helping...

Been a great few days in Melbourne for a 245kW rwd car... :-) missing the AWD already..

Nice!

Can you get the sedan in a manuel, or are they all auto?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...