Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

16 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

Driving on the weekend, air con on full blast, opened a window as dog wanted to get smashed in the face with bugs.

No difference in temp, may as well drop all the windows and run full flow air!

 

Obviously these guys live further south in cooler climates where AC continues to operate 😛

I'm down south. It seldom gets hotter anywhere else in the southern cities than it does in Adelaide. When we get 40°C, it's usually for a week at a time. My aircon works, and works well. I just don't need/want it in most circumstances. Even driving home from work in the afternoon for 45 minutes, where the air over the road might be 45°C, I prefer the windows down.

In fact, I use it so seldomly that I needed to get it regassed because it all leaked out somewhere and we couldn't find where, and I really should use it every week to keep the seals wet....but I always forget. It's probably been 2 months since I last remembered to turn it on.

I use AC every time I drive the car. Something* makes the car pretty warm simply by existing. It's how I know the car is truly up to temp, water temp, oil temp, cabin temp.

That said it'll be ~22 and keep the temp down on a 40 degree day. There's no excuse for the deletion of aircon. Ever!

 

  • Like 2

No. It's all Aluminium! :p. And that's the point I'm making, I wouldn't have done it if I couldn't retain AC!

I recently drove it with the center console out, I had thought it was gearbox heat. However after driving it for about an hour, the shifter was still cold and all the heat shielding from the tunnel was working great.

I now think it's the fact that there's headers running behind the steering wheel/infront/underthe driver, and the fact you can feel your ankles warmed when you step out of the car seems to suggest that too.

In any case yeah. Aircon sure is great.

  • Like 2

I seem to recall my VT2 SS with LS1 6 speed getting freaking hot around g/box on long drives. Always assumed it was the box but thinking about it now, there was pacemaker headers either side of it going into twin cats. Greg your assessment of where the heat coming from, sounds about right.

I've got a 10L one, love it. 

Also have the basic SCA parts washer, that mostly sits there as an extra work surface but is very handy when needed. 

 

Edited by No Crust Racing
17 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

I'm down south. It seldom gets hotter anywhere else in the southern cities than it does in Adelaide. When we get 40°C, it's usually for a week at a time. My aircon works, and works well. I just don't need/want it in most circumstances. Even driving home from work in the afternoon for 45 minutes, where the air over the road might be 45°C, I prefer the windows down.

In fact, I use it so seldomly that I needed to get it regassed because it all leaked out somewhere and we couldn't find where, and I really should use it every week to keep the seals wet....but I always forget. It's probably been 2 months since I last remembered to turn it on.

willing to swap your A/C setup for 2 x window switches?

  • Haha 2
10 hours ago, MBS206 said:

So to slightly less de-rail this thread, and bring it back to an earlier, slightly more on topic discussion, Look at what the algorithm is pushing at me...

f**king algorithms...

I'm not willing to click on any unlabelled external link; but I assume it is a hand held device intended to replace a wife

  • Haha 1
34 minutes ago, DaymoR32 said:

willing to swap your A/C setup for 2 x window switches?

Heh. It might be worth it. I turned it on last night because the thunderstorm was causing fogging inside the car. I don't think the compressor came on, meaning that the gas has probably made an exit somewhere. f**ken.

  • Haha 2
1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Heh. It might be worth it. I turned it on last night because the thunderstorm was causing fogging inside the car. I don't think the compressor came on, meaning that the gas has probably made an exit somewhere. f**ken.

Now imagine you had working AC, higher quality of life.

12 hours ago, Duncan said:

I'm not willing to click on any unlabelled external link; but I assume it is a hand held device intended to replace a wife

It's safe, I didn't hide it in the quote of someone else :P

 

it was a link to a Facebook video, advertising Vevor 10L ultrasonic cleaner, and they cleaned 6 pistons while still on their rods in it.

 

Been driving the 33 to work past couple of days, have clocked up 350km and decided to change the oil and filter. Going to run some cheap mineral oil for the next thousand KMs. Got some nulon 15w 40 premium mineral oil for cheap off eBay. $28 delivered. It arrived today. Looks like Fastway can actually deliver unlike couriers no thanks.

Break in oil came out looking very clean as one would expect. I cut the filter open and was happy to not find any traces off stuff that shouldn't be there. New filter was fitted and oil filled. Noticed a small coolant drip past couple of days, was coming from lower rad hose clamp. Gave it a little more tension, all good again. 

Went for another little drive in the arvo, pretty close to 400km done so far. Haven't thrashed it's tits off quite yet, maybe after another 200km.

 

IMG_20231213_181348557_HDR.thumb.jpg.9c3b4a4e51c21c947a35293d58fb8fd3.jpg

  • Like 5

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...