Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I'm assuming you're asking about my current turbo? 

It's a Garrett GTX3576R Gen 2 with a 1.01 divided turbine housing. Made 437kW with 1.8 tapering down to 1.6bar.

The latest UHF55mm have out performed G30 turbine extremely well on my Rb2530det using a T3 .82 rear housing carring a G30-900 compressor wheel. It will be alot more responsive in comparison to a GT35 turbine in 1.01 rear while making about the same power. This turbine wheel and rear housing is currently out of the test car, I can swap them into your current turbo for some feedbacks if interested. PM for details.

Edited by hypergear
  • Like 1

The NZ build mentioned above is mine.the ATR43ss2 is a weapon if you’re after 300ish kw on 98. I have seen so many good results from @hypergear over the years, and Taos input to these forums and general support to the members was the key reason I chose hypergear.

At those power levels there is no need for a new manifold. No spacer was needed to install the unit. I chose for the external wastegate plumb-back version, which has the exhaust housing modified for an external wastegate to be fitted.

i made a conservative 311kw and am hoping for over 360kw once I get motivated and modify the fuel system for ethanol.

  • Like 4
On 02/03/2024 at 9:14 PM, Kinkstaah said:

Surely nowadays a G series can be done in a very-nearly-bolt-on-in-stock-location on a RB25 on a stock manifold etc.

Surely.

I have not really looked into it for reasons

I hear a pair of them works well on LS engines... 

19 hours ago, R3N3 said:

The NZ build mentioned above is mine.the ATR43ss2 is a weapon if you’re after 300ish kw on 98. I have seen so many good results from @hypergear over the years, and Taos input to these forums and general support to the members was the key reason I chose hypergear.

At those power levels there is no need for a new manifold. No spacer was needed to install the unit. I chose for the external wastegate plumb-back version, which has the exhaust housing modified for an external wastegate to be fitted.

i made a conservative 311kw and am hoping for over 360kw once I get motivated and modify the fuel system for ethanol.

What made you got .63 instead of .71 housing? Just response? Couldnt you push a little more power from a .71 with lower PSI?

39 minutes ago, LjB123 said:

What made you got .63 instead of .71 housing? Just response? Couldnt you push a little more power from a .71 with lower PSI?

I just asked TAO and he recommended .63..

I’d recommend sticking to .63 if you want a similar power figure and the best possible response. I’m running a completely un-opened motor too, so I could push harder if I wanted but I asked the tuner for some reliability, which is why we limited boost.

I’m no turbo expert, so I’ll let @hypergear answer that but I’m assuming the trade off for the slightly bigger housing would be response. I’m assuming they may be for a slightly larger displacement engine?

Put it this way, if I were to do it again I’d go the .63 again.

Edited by R3N3
1 hour ago, R3N3 said:

I just asked TAO and he recommended .63..

I’d recommend sticking to .63 if you want a similar power figure and the best possible response. I’m running a completely un-opened motor too, so I could push harder if I wanted but I asked the tuner for some reliability, which is why we limited boost.

I’m no turbo expert, so I’ll let @hypergear answer that but I’m assuming the trade off for the slightly bigger housing would be response. I’m assuming they may be for a slightly larger displacement engine?

Put it this way, if I were to do it again I’d go the .63 again.

I have upgraded cams (tomei poncam type B) and valve springs + retainers so might change the response i get from a .71 housing

 

i was going to go with the external wastegate plumb back kit which bolts right up to a JJR Front pipe, currently have a JJR full dump pipe but a front pope is only $150 to get new, and can sell my dump for $100 or something, less cop attention the better and i reckon i will get over the noise of a screamer pipe after a bit haha

20 minutes ago, LjB123 said:

I have upgraded cams (tomei poncam type B) and valve springs + retainers so might change the response i get from a .71 housing

Yeah. For the worse. Bigger cams do not make things happen earlier. They move the power curve to the right. Not what you're looking for.

I was wondering. It looks like for r34 gtt oem turbos there are no rebuild kits, so you would either have to get an aftermarket turbo or secondhand oem one. Are there any turbos that have the EXACT same specs as the oem one so when installed, the car doesn't need to be tuned or it doesn't work like that?

Turbo shop can rebuild it to factory for you, although you could get a better/upgraded one at the same time at the same cost.

Turbo rebuild is not really DIY, you need a high speed balancer

  • Like 1

There is no "rebuild" of the standard core, with its ceramic turbine. Any "rebuild" is actually a "recore". The original Hitachi BB core is actually quite large (ie long). The distance between the comp housing and the turbine housing is large.

I got an OP6 highflow from Tao. The BB core he uses is tiny by comparison. The turbine housing sits in the same spot (it has to, because it is bolted to the exhaust manifold, and so that and the dump are all in the same place. But the comp housing moves backwards in the engine bay because of the shorter centre section, and so you need to mod your inlet pipe (by any of a number of different methods) and the water and oil hoses need some changes too.

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, Duncan said:

Turbo shop can rebuild it to factory for you, although you could get a better/upgraded one at the same time at the same cost.

Turbo rebuild is not really DIY, you need a high speed balancer

Ah right, I do remember hearing a while back about that balancing thing that you just mentioned. I assumed I could rebuild it and then just get the shop to balance it (until i realised there's no rebuild kit). My turbo is fine but I am running higher boost I believe so just incase the time comes the reason I'd rather rebuild it, is to save at least $1,000 on tuning it, especially as I'm not trying to make huge power.

Edited by silviaz
36 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

There is no "rebuild" of the standard core, with its ceramic turbine. Any "rebuild" is actually a "recore". The original Hitachi BB core is actually quite large (ie long). The distance between the comp housing and the turbine housing is large.

I got an OP6 highflow from Tao. The BB core he uses is tiny by comparison. The turbine housing sits in the same spot (it has to, because it is bolted to the exhaust manifold, and so that and the dump are all in the same place. But the comp housing moves backwards in the engine bay because of the shorter centre section, and so you need to mod your inlet pipe (by any of a number of different methods) and the water and oil hoses need some changes too.

This goes over my head haha. Can you change the ceramic turbine to a steel one for better reliability?

Edited by silviaz
1 hour ago, silviaz said:

This goes over my head haha. Can you change the ceramic turbine to a steel one for better reliability?

Yes, but not really stock for stock, and not without changing anything else. If you are going to pay someone to put all that work into a turbo, you would be mentally deranged to do it at the stock performance level. Insane.

Even a highflow is relatively poor value compared to the new turbos that Tao offers.

  • Like 2
46 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yes, but not really stock for stock, and not without changing anything else. If you are going to pay someone to put all that work into a turbo, you would be mentally deranged to do it at the stock performance level. Insane.

Even a highflow is relatively poor value compared to the new turbos that Tao offers.

With the high flow were you referring to something like this? https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/

 

If so, I just saw their turbo on ebay the highflowed one and it runs at a minimum 15 psi, as opposed to stock which I believe is 7 psi. Sounds like I'd need a tune either way?

Edited by silviaz
42 minutes ago, silviaz said:

With the high flow were you referring to something like this? https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/

 

If so, I just saw their turbo on ebay the highflowed one and it runs at a minimum 15 psi, as opposed to stock which I believe is 7 psi. Sounds like I'd need a tune either way?

Why are you so against getting your car tuned? Surely you would want it to run better than factory?

14 minutes ago, UWISSH! said:

Why are you so against getting your car tuned? Surely you would want it to run better than factory?

Not against it, but it's already tuned and it's more about not spending an extra $1k if I don't need to. If I have to then fair enough. 

Edited by silviaz

We do offer a smaller G2 version of high flow that works with factory boost levels and tune. It will be maxing towards 250rwkws once tuned however. 

Also we build custom G / GTX style of bolt on turbos by request, the biggest that would work internally gated would be an G30-660, G25 turbines are too small for Rb25det motor.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...