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Dobz

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Everything posted by Dobz

  1. I've goat a full set of rb25de neo pistons and rods in good condition if you wanted to bump up compression.
  2. Looks nicely scratched up. You need to fill those scratches because that's where it leaks through. Every burr created by the scratches needs to be smoothed out and the surface cleaned up by using 800 grit wet and dry. The area needs to be cleaned well using metho and a clean rag then let completely dry. Cut up and old bank card or similar so you can make a little scraper that can fit in the hole but still has some rigidity. Skim coat a thin layer of gasket sealant to fill the scratches and let it completely dry. After that lube up new o-rings and hole with silicone spray and gently insert like a caring lover.
  3. http://www.carrollsmith.com/books/index.html Carroll Smith has some good detailed info on nearly all aspects of race cars. I had "engineer to win" but I can't find it now. It had good info about material use in race cars as well as suspension info.
  4. Take circlip off, take out shifter and then fill specified volume. Justjap or similar will likely have replacement boot if you do a search, they are pretty generic across skylines. With a good length 1/2" breaker bar you don't have to be Hercules to undo the gearbox plugs.
  5. If the lifters are in good condition and cleaned then thicker oil is not the way you want to go, that's only for suspected worn lifters. If the ramp on the cam is a bit aggressive coupled with extra spring pressure and restricted oil feeds it could explain it. You might be at the end of the lifters ability.
  6. How much track work has the car done? The colour of it suggests it's been copping a lot of heat.
  7. Crank angle sensor disk rubbing inside possibly? It almost sounds like some thin metal rubbing on something, could explain why it doesn't run properly now.
  8. It doesn't really look like a nylon wheel from the colour of it. Pull the compressor cover off and take some photos. What does the exhaust wheel look like?
  9. Either way it's turbo off so get busy. When it's apart the cracked areas on the compressor should look quite bright if it's recent damage and more dull if old. Is it possible something was ingested into it?
  10. Agree with the above apart for an aspect of the last paragraph. While people certainly don't need to glue their eyes to the speedo it happens so much because of the authorities demonising speed and implementing costly penalties. I can bet you the most dangerous place to be caught on the road would be right where a know speed camera is. As long as the authorities keep pushing their speed agenda people will keep on looking at the speedo more than they need to. Good would be the day the TAC changes it's tune to "inattention kills".
  11. Not sure on the line bore because i've never had to do it. You'll find out from the workshop once the easier options have been exhausted i guess. Put out a wanted to buy and see if people have got any old heads laying around to pinch their caps. Just by chance I may have one floating around in the garage at my mum's house. I'll let you know by Monday.
  12. Better off not to dodgy up that damaged cap. You can find a cap off another head and fit it without necessarily needing a line bore. It needs to be dummied up, measured and checked that the cap sits concentric with the bottom. You would want to get the engine re conditioner to do this because they will have the measuring equipment required. I've done this in the past with success after a cap mysteriously went missing. The heads would be machined with good enough consistency in the factory that a lot of caps could possibly be interchanged between heads.
  13. Getting sorted out now. Thank you Longz
  14. Same boat here, would appreciate some reply.
  15. It's just not the right tension is all, though there is a chance it could be a quality issue with blueprint brand. I have a gates belt that is hardly noticeable.
  16. Loos like i need to read things more carefully. Unfortunately sprays are the only option to be able to lube without taking gearbox out. You can get molybdenum dry film aerosol sprays that would stay wet long enough to wick into gaps though I think it can be expensive. Another option is copper anti seize aerosol which could also wick in to the pin to lubricate.
  17. Get a cheap artist brush and some Molybdenum grease. With the rubber boot off you can slightly separate the fork from the ball enough to poke the grease covered brush in between.
  18. http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/showthread.php?t=385653
  19. https://alexkantarovski.wordpress.com/ http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452258-speedtek-industries-gearset/ If this is anything to go by I would not trust speedtek.
  20. The overflow bottle would be abnormally filling up if the head gasket had blown into a water jacket. You need to just bite the bullet and pull it out for a rebuild as r32-25t said. There could potentially be other problems just around the corner eg.oil pump drive
  21. Is the cooling system over pressurising and filling the overflow after a drive?
  22. How old are the turbos? It's possible the bearings are letting go.
  23. What is meant by "steer/drag build"? Circuit and drag? From the details you give about engine specs it looks like you have good mechanical strength and all the supporting mods for power. As long as it has been put together right it shouldn't give you trouble. You can have the most bulletproof engine setup mechanically but it means nothing without a good tune. A tune can make or break any engine. What is being done on the ecu and tuning side of things?
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