Dobz

If you think the water pump was damaged in transport then you are responsible to fix the problem because you supplied the parts. If the box was badly damaged then a close inspection of the pump should have been done.

You need to clean out any part of the intake system where oil can pool. It's likely your intercooler is holding a lot of oil. Correct me if i'm wrong but the turbos should already have a restrictor built in should they not? Also if oil was pushing out the front seal it would be pushing out the back seal and pumping white smoke out the exhaust. How many litres is that can? It doesn't look big enough to allow a vent filter on the top, if it fills you will have a potentially dangerous mess.

Put up some pics, it would be good to see where it cracked. Either the workshop has slapped the new pump on without cleaning the old sealant and then carelessly cranked it tight in a bad sequence or as already suggested they cranked the belt so tight it cracked the housing. Have you checked the belt tension? Either way go back to the workshop with the pics and ask for an explanation.

You have to be careful the mechanic isn't taking you for a ride is all. The engine needs to be cleaned, mocked up less belt covers, ps and ac belts off and fan off to be able to warm the car and get a clear indication where the leak Is happening. If they don't know where it's coming from and they don't do that test I would find another mechanic. The leak should be obvious at the rate the oil was coming out on the video.

Engine out and head off for a possible oil pump problem? Something smells fishy about that. Oil pump seal problem is likely all it is.

Entered, hope all ej20 cam cover bolts are tight on the day. I'm guessing the $2 extra i payed is to supply number stickers?

If one were interested where could one expect to pick up said bottom end?

After you had been on the track was there a lot of coolant pushed into the overflow tank? My method of bleeding coolant that has always worked: Cold engine, open radiator and take out bleed screw. Slowly top up coolant until a small stream comes from bleed, you will see little bubbles coming out. Once the stream looks like no more air is coming out put the bleed screw back in a few threads. Start the engine with the heater and fan on full. Keep the radiator topped up as the engine warms, give some small revs at times to help it flow through. When hot air comes from heater in car undo the bleed screw and allow any built up air out until some steady coolant is rushing out. Put the screw back in and do it up, top up radiator and overflow tank then take it for a drive with heater still in full. You'll notice once it cools down it will suck some coolant in, that's normal, just top up overflow to max mark and that is it.

I was in the same boat as you Travis, I called Neil on the form and he told me he has seen my entry but has been busy so hasn't processed it yet. He assured me i'm entered so i'd guess you're in the same boat.

Definitely needs bleeding. Bleed screw is on the throttle body assembly above injector 1. What is the condition of your cooling system, any dirty stuff in your radiator?

The RB25 isn't that complicated, you should be fine if you have some sound mechanical knowledge under your belt as well as a mechanic to help out. All you can do is throw the guy an offer with the price of a rebuild factored in and hope he has the sense to take it. He admitted it's a tow job after all.

A hole in the bonnet should do it. It'll be easier after the first outing, just cut out the burnt area of paint! Should be a fun car to drive, there's something about revving the crap out of an rb20 that feels good.

What weight oil are you using and has the ticking only started recently? If there is suspicion oil pressure is low the best thing to do is put a decent oil pressure gauge in to check it.

That's right, a spun bearing will be the result of a bad build, lack of proper maintenance or oil starvation. Your bearings should be fine, just keep maintenance up and be sure you aren't losing oil pressure at the track due to oil surge.

If the car has rego, you have owned it for at least 12 months and have rego certificate to prove it you'll be fine. I'm sure the vicroads website explains what is needed. I transferred my patrol from qld, I had original roadworthy and rego receipts. In the end all they cared about was if it had rego and the form was filled correctly. Didn't ask to see the car at all.

Not to sure of main and big end journal sizes would allow the 25 crank in the 20. If you could fit 25 crank with 20 rods and pistons it could work but you would only gain maybe 150-200cc. Piston pin height from 20 and 25 would need to be the same and squish pads would need to be recessed to accommodate the extra piston protrusion. Then piston to valve clearance could become and issue. If you have bits lying around I'd say go and start measuring and trial fitting to see if it's possible. Time and effort wise it is better to just get an rb25 and there will be a lot of people replying the same. If you like a mechanical challenge and don't mind spending the time then go for it.

Digging up an old thread to set the record straight about the amount of advance on rb25 vct. I have an rb25 neo vct cam and pulley that i'm planning on retro fitting on my rb26 head. After mounting the cam in a vice with the pulley I turned it to full advance and marked the points. Each tooth is 7.5° so two teeth are 15° advance on the cam making it 30° on the crank. I was thinking it seems like too much but the step 1 hks v-cam has a 30° maximum advance so I guess there are advantages. I'm not sure if r33 rb25 vct has the same amount of advance but it would be good to find out. Hope this helps anyone else wondering.

If the turbo is water cooled then the water return goes to the manifold fitting and the hole in 2nd pic is plugged. If turbo is just oil cooled just plug up both holes. I noticed in the 1st pic you have the oil pressure sensor hole plugged up, you planning on having any sort of oil pressure monitoring?

Yeah I think the situation the video shows it is wrong. From what i've heard the best application is on exhaust nuts and bolts that may have rusted together. The wax supposedly lubes the rust rather than the rust in the thread galling and seizing the nut when undoing it. It's nothing a bit of dubbya dee or crc can't handle though.

In the video it looks like he melts the wax between the stud and the nut. The nut in the vid looks thinner than yours so it may have heated up enough to wick some wax into the thread. A jet lighter or small plumbing gas torch would get some more heat on the thicker nut.

Best thing to do is take the bonnet off because you'll want to climb up and get your body weight over the tool. It will make seating the collets with the heavy springs waaaay easier. The stock springs will just need a pop of a weighty plastic face hammer on the collet extraction tool.

I'm chasing the adapter that goes between the compressor outlet and the merge pipe on the front turbo.

Can I ask why you want to take it off if you don't want to replace it?

Yep, that's the one

Forgot to ask if you checked the intake pipe connection? I know i've had oil weeping from there in the past.