Dobz

Should be taken back to hear what they have to say about it. How many people work there, is there a chance someone dodgy in the workshop did the job? The proper course of action is to have the collar taken off and sizes checked, you also want to see if they put a decent radius in the corner. Too small of a radius could lead to snappage.

It’s push type so it’s r32 gtst, r32 gtr(except some 93 models) and r33 gtst. If later models have the pull to push conversion it can be used.

This. Check it for terminal rust on the chassis.

Top speed run it off a cliff

Oil filters have there own pressure release valve , they also have an anti drain back valve (check valve) that holds oil in the filter. I've stripped and cleaned three RB's (20,25,26) over the years and i can certainly say there were no check valves in any feed to the head what so ever. Brake cleaner and air pass easily back through the orifices without a problem. There is simply no need for them.

Yeah I understand that, I'm just trying to decipher which gear of the two has more wear or have they both worn evenly? I'll take a stab and say there's something going on with gear tooth hardening or lack there of. With the small amount of work the box has done there shouldn't be such accelerated wear regardless of machined tooth tolerances or setup clearances. Is speedtek just sending another shaft with no questions asked? Surely they would want the worn one back for analysis.

Which gear had more wear the input or counter shaft?

My 2c Make it rev hard with heavier valve springs, porting and bigger cams. The ca will feel more usable when you have a higher rpm ceiling, they’re basically a 4cyl version of an rb20.

Once all the oil and water lines are off you need to get crafty with a ring spanner to undo the manifolds, then pull turbo and manifold out together. I can't remember exactly but i think you need to loosen off the flange bolts on the rear turbo so you can weasel the manifold off the studs on the head. If you find it hard going getting them off you should at least get them rebuilt before you put them back in.

When will entries be open again? The suspense is killing me, I haven't slept in three days.

Got it, cheers

Passenger laps?

The ecu would have a performance chip for sure.

It'll be a gradual leak if it does start. It is possible to have a quiet gates timing belt, the problem is they are less elastic than other brands making even a small over tighten noisy. The 1/4 turn method for gates timing belt tension is not very accurate imo. A method that has worked for me many times on the RB is: -Pull all slack from the belt with an allen key on the tensioner using only finger power. -Nip up the tensioner nut and grab the short length of belt between the cam pulleys. -Firmly wiggle that section of belt and observe how far up and down it deflects from it's flat resting place. The best measurement i found is when you can pull it up about 6mm from resting and then push it down 6mm from resting. Remember the lower sections of belt need to have no slack when checking. -If it is too tight just back off the tensioner nut, give the belt a little slack using the allen key then nip up and check again. Remember to firmly pull all the slack into that small length between the pulleys before checking.

That’s looks like a tomei dump pipe problem you have there. In the third picture the dump pipe shoots straight back toward the second turbo leaving no room for the inlet pipe. My hpi dump angles toward the block slightly. The dump has ~10-12mm clearance between the inlet pipe and the flange. I have some average pics but it’s the best I can do in the tight space. I should add I have stock turbos, not sure if your aftermarket Garret’s could be slightly bigger. Someone else may be able to confirm that.

Nismo coppermix comp. twin plate. For ease of use keep the clutch booster if fitted or get the nismo big bore slave. You could also find a clutch and brake shop thats able to bore out the stocker.

^^This It's unlikely you'll find the exact info you want/need so the best option is to put your hands and head to work and see how you go.

That’s a head scratcher, you might need to just start a process of elimination. The easiest one is to change back to the oil you used to use. Shim bucket clearances would be a good thing to check too.

It would be good to know how much meat is on the manifold before it breaks through to the coolant gallery. You might be able to make enough clearance for the plug by removing aluminum.

I’m not saying it is the problem but its certainly worth playing with.

So it’s high and hard before you turn her on, once she’s turned on it drops half way and softens up? Serious now, have you played around with the pedal adjustment?

ActionDan already had a thread going through this. The collet remover and install tool is nice and easy for stock springs, not so nice and easy for heavy springs. When I put heavier springs in I had to put my body weight over the tool to accurately guide the collets back in.

I’m pretty sure the reference to feeling like a stock clutch is how the take up and engagement feels. It’s more forgiving, not so on/off like some. My coppermix feels a bit heavy underfoot until I start my car and the booster helps out. One way around it is getting the nismo big bore slave, also a clutch and brake shop may be able to bore out and fit a bigger piston in your stocker.

What happens when you don’t push the clutch in and then rev it?

The power steering system is a simple on an r33 because hicas is electrically controlled. R32 is hydraulic hicas off the main power steering so it's a different kettle of fish. There may be some small detail like a seal or hose clamp on a return line allowing a small amount of air in when hot. Has it all been checked for defective hoses, hose clamps and/or seals?