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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. KiwiRS4T
    Could be anything but borrow a known good set of coils to confirm. I would only use genuine OEM coils or Splifires. Pull the plugs while the coils are out and if they are not in good cond get a new set gapped to 0.8mm
  2. KiwiRS4T
    You need some of these: https://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/product/hardrace-200sx-s14-s15-skyline-front-caster-rods/
  3. KiwiRS4T
    On the Stagea it runs down the firewall outside where the aircon unit sits (passenger side). Run your aircond on full cold and then jump out when you pull up to see where the water is coming from.
  4. KiwiRS4T
    Ebay HKS SPEED LIMIT DEFENCER or with the R33 there is a wire from the ecu you cut - its likely your car has one too if you can get a pinout diagram. You could put a switch on it.
  5. KiwiRS4T
    I don't think any amount of suspension wizardry can compensate for sub standard tyres - they are after all the point of contact with the road (track).
  6. KiwiRS4T
    Pretty sure my M/c stopper was an R33 one. If you look at them you could probably make one fairly easily. I got brake lines from an Australian company called Maltech ...they did a run for Stageas but were fairly expensive and not sure if they are around any more. Maybe a brake specialist can make them up for you. I would be reluctant to suggest you get a BM57 as they are hard to come by (R34GTR is the best bet used) and expensive new.
  7. KiwiRS4T
    They are slow and expensive to run.. Get a Toyota Corolla, become a better driver and learn simple maintenance. If you still want a Skyline when you come off your P plate then buy a turbo version.
  8. KiwiRS4T
    Check to see that you have the attessa pump etc at the rear. Rear half shafts should have six evenly spaced bolts. if not you are probably looking for a GTR rear end.
  9. KiwiRS4T
    Unless they are running backwards fans should not make any difference on the track at speed. If OP is not familiar with bleeding procedure it is very likely the problem.
  10. KiwiRS4T
    $5K
  11. KiwiRS4T
    If you mean lug nuts for your wheels aluminium are illegal. As above get chrome plated steel. Or if you mean lock nuts as in securing your mags again make sure they are steel.
  12. KiwiRS4T
    You can use stock pistons if you are poor. I think you'll find the cams are in the head.
  13. KiwiRS4T
    Obviously better tyres will help but tyre pressures are critical. If you search you will see how with some means of measuring (probe is ideal but a cheap laser gun may do) you measure the temps as soon as you pull in and compare the centre of the tread (what's left of it!) with the outsides and alter pressures to fix (too tired to remember which way round it goes).
  14. KiwiRS4T
    If you have higher brake piston area with the same M/C then your pedal will travel a little further but that does not affect brake performance - its just like fitting a lower ratio diff. If you haven't already done it you can ameliorate this a little with a M/C stopper and braided brake lines or as Trex says after a while you will just get used to it.
  15. KiwiRS4T
    If you can get a spare set of wheels and fit slicks that should help a lot. Rear sway bar needs to be heavier - if there is adjustment left on your existing one then do that otherwise go heavier... initially on the softest setting.
  16. KiwiRS4T
    How would you notice air in the system after 20 minutes driving? You need to bleed from cold..
  17. KiwiRS4T
    If you still have them put the stock fan and shroud back on. Make sure you bleed the cooling system - heater on full etc - Google to find best ways.
  18. KiwiRS4T
    Do you have the OEM fan and shroud? Cooling system properly bled? Could be tune related.
  19. KiwiRS4T
    Have you still got the tweeters in the pillars? You sure have done a lot of work! I have used bullet connectors etc myself but best practice for long term security is soldered connections covered by heat shrink. Seeing as you have a lifetime ahead of you as and when funds allow invest in a soldering iron and a heat gun...
  20. KiwiRS4T
    My memory is going but I believe when I up graded to GTT brakes I kept the stock M/C and booster which was fine for the job. When I fitted D2 330mm brakes to the front and GTR brakes to the rear I changed the master cylinder (kept the stock booster IIRC) to BM57 with no ill effects (pulled up straight at high speeds on the track).
  21. KiwiRS4T
    Nistune do not make a chip for the R33 ECU. Google this and you will find a number of solutions including ways to trigger your VCT.
  22. KiwiRS4T
    Hi don't be shy - what is your location?
  23. KiwiRS4T
    If you are not measuring the same car on the same dyno on the same day a good way of telling the improvement is to compare say 80 to 120 km/hr times - too late for you now of course. Does the car feel better to drive now?
  24. KiwiRS4T
    No. You will soon be wanting more power - better to buy a turbo car. It will cost more but better to save up for a GTST or GTT rather then spend heaps on the DE e.g. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-1339475531.htm
  25. KiwiRS4T
    You cannot Nistune the R33 hence my post above re Z32 ecu etc. Greddy E Manage is not really what you need.
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