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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. KiwiRS4T
    The D2 330mm brakes have 8 pots so I guess the aim is to even out the pressure over the entire length of the pads. The stopping power is great and progressive. The stock pads only lasted one day at the track. Pagid pads last 3 or 4 track days (with no brake fade) and the daily use in between. If you were really keen you could use track pads and swap them for street pads at the end of the day which would probably work out to be cost effective but just changing the wheels is more than enough work for me...
  2. KiwiRS4T
    Don't get carried away with the "harmonic balancer " bit and just think of it as a damper. Its not an ecu.
  3. KiwiRS4T
    Your car will never run properly as the ecu you are using is not tunable. You need either an aftermarket ecu or at least a Nistune chip. If you are feeling lucky you may find Nistune or someone else will put a tune on the chip that roughly matches your set-up although i think you will need at least a Z32 afm. I assume you have fitted an intercooler of some sort? Does someone like Max Sols in Suva have a dyno?
  4. KiwiRS4T
    Sounds good for a street car! Where are the promised dyno sheets? (Post in the turbo upgrade results at the top of the page)...
  5. KiwiRS4T
    If you didn't spend more than $10,000 you won't be making 1000hp. have a look through your receipts and list the main points - turbo, injectors, cams and if possible put up such dyno charts as you might have - torque, power, afrs, boost - are those most commonly supplied. BTW if you are making 500hp at the rear wheels your car should be pretty fast!
  6. KiwiRS4T
    Hi Why not import straight from Japan?
  7. KiwiRS4T
    Have you looked on the Link website? As I recall (it was a few years ago) you take the lid off the ecu and there is a terminal to push it on and you need to snip the casing to allow access to the wiring (unless I am confusing it with the cable for the display) - I think the instructions came with the cable - but otherwise you can email or phone them for tech support. Or skype but probably not on the weekend http://www.linkecu.com/software-support/
  8. KiwiRS4T
    You have PM Would be good if you can get VCT working if its still there. Save up if you can for a modern Precision or Borgwarner turbo or contact Lith to see how they are doing with the Masterpower turbos
  9. KiwiRS4T
    Glen Suckling installed and tuned my Link - he's probably one of the best around now that Soichi has gone (not cheap though)!
  10. KiwiRS4T
    They are all old. Nobody except an R33 owner loves R33s. Having said that the best advice is to go drive the car and see if you like it. Every car is different and I have seen some nice R33s.
  11. KiwiRS4T
    ATI say " We don’t make an application for the RB25 Eric’s performance parts in California modifies our RB dampers to work on the RB25 though. " So I guess you could buy one and modify it yourself or buy one from California (or just stick an OEM stocker on it).
  12. KiwiRS4T
    You can buy a wide variety of auxiliary vacuum manifolds like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Blue-Aluminum-Alloy-Vacuum-Manifold-Kit-6-1-8-Port-Turbo-Wastegate-Block-Black-/172573257939?hash=item282e2af0d3:g:8pgAAOSwB09YMmFe
  13. KiwiRS4T
    What turbo and injectors do you have in mind? Who is the tuner? Car looks great!
  14. KiwiRS4T
    If you look at the R34 PDF you will see that it applies to the RB20 as well as the RB25
  15. KiwiRS4T
    R33 pinouts and R34 Pinouts S2 pinouts.htm R34 pinouts text version.odt Pinouts R34_ecu.pdf
  16. KiwiRS4T
    Have you emailed ATI?
  17. KiwiRS4T
    I did look into the AP rotors for my 330mm ones but the inside bolt pattern was different. However the stock rotors were actually still OK after 3 sets of pads.
  18. KiwiRS4T
    Yep go for it.
  19. KiwiRS4T
    Yes it will help. Will cost you a bit to buy one and get it tuned though, If you can borrow an AFR meter I guess you could do it yourself. Better would be a Greddy E-Manage if you can get a suitable loom or can be bothered to wire it in . I presume you have an auto making it hard to get a full aftermarket ecu.
  20. KiwiRS4T
    I got a pair of these (nice sound, loud, ): http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/High-Power-Stebel-Magnum-Twin-Electric-12-volt-136dB-Car-or-Bike-Horn-Kit-Loud-/252934015151?hash=item3ae40ac8af:g:tycAAOSwZ4dZFjo4
  21. KiwiRS4T
    Answered elsewhere. The great thing about the manual conversion is that it gives you the opportunity to get an aftermarket ECU or a Nistuneable Nissan one when you inevitably embark on the search for more power!
  22. KiwiRS4T
    They must have got cheaper - around $100 now from Nissan: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/auction-1323409469.htm
  23. KiwiRS4T
    Shouldn't need a washer. Be sure to check them after you have applied them a few times.
  24. KiwiRS4T
    I have imported the rain deflectors on top of the windows from Nissan Japan. They call them sun visors (sic) and cost $300 about 4 years ago!
  25. KiwiRS4T
    Are you planning to get an RB20DET engine or just turbo the one you have? Either way the auto should work but its life may not be long if you hammer it. I have no direct experience of the Laurel but since there are plenty of them with a 25DET in them I suspect that most swaps will be pretty routine and there are guides on how to convert auto to manual in here that will probably help you. For the RB20DET you may need a suitable ecu but hopefully someone who has done it will put you right.
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