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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. KiwiRS4T
    You have steel braided lines and a master cylinder stopper? You want more weight - throw away the booster!
  2. KiwiRS4T
    There are several guides. Here's one:
  3. KiwiRS4T
    I bought one from Link for about $150 but in hindsight I should probably have bought a $30 one. At the time (about 6 years ago) there were a lot of $150-$200 ones on ebay but now there seem to be none which suggests that people have realised the cheaper ones work fine.
  4. KiwiRS4T
    Don't worry about heeling and toe-ing for now. Practise the basics. Get your take offs smooth. You need to learn how far the clutch pedal comes up before it begins to bite and you need to know the minimum revs it takes to get underway without stalling. From rest let out the clutch pedal quickly to the bite point and then pausing very briefly increase revs and let the clutch right up. Do virtually the same at each upchange until it becomes second nature without over-revving or stalling. To start with do not double declutch for downshifts. If your synchros are still in working order just change down with firm smooth movements. You will soon find the necessary small increase in revs to prevent jerking. For normal driving do not downshift to slow the car - use the brakes (brake pads are cheaper than clutches and gearboxes) and then change down to suit your speed if necessary. Do this a lot until you are comfortable changing gear while turning and can do a three point turn without drama. Heeling and Toe-ing will be easy if you can do the basics automatically - very hard otherwise.
  5. KiwiRS4T
    Most common cause of spark failure is dead coils. If they are the originals they are due for replacement with new OEM or Splitfires (not cheap rubbish replacements).
  6. KiwiRS4T
    Hi - try posting in the Stagea section (named "wagoneers") to contact the NM35 brigade.
  7. KiwiRS4T
    They are not so rare new or second hand. Raw Brokerage were selling "recond" ones. Here's another: http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R34-GTR-GTT-CAS-CRANK-ANGLE-SENSOR-NEO6-RB25DET-23731-5L300-/152602020715?epid=1423034528&hash=item2387ca0b6b:g:LeUAAOSwi8VZQ6Q~&vxp=mtr
  8. KiwiRS4T
    I believe Chris Rogers is now in the US of A. Auto foot rest has been removed to make room for the clutch pedal. You can look for a manual one
  9. KiwiRS4T
    Yes if properly connected the MAP sensor should work as well as the AFM which can be removed.
  10. KiwiRS4T
    Map sensor needs to be connected post throttle - i.e. somewhere off the plenum ...as is the sensor for the boost gauge.
  11. KiwiRS4T
    No problems...plenty around like that. Has it got the manual console around the gear lever and handbrake? An auto will have the gear position indicator in the cluster but that can be blanked out.
  12. KiwiRS4T
    These are just guides for parking so you know where your left front is. Some go up and down with the ignition and some have a light at the top.
  13. KiwiRS4T
    You can buy them on-line http://www.axewheels.com/shop/axe-alloy-wheels/axe-ex1-gloss-black-polished-face-stainless-steel-rim-alloy-wheels/
  14. KiwiRS4T
    Does the motor turn ok? Did you plasti gauge the bearings? Check the oil pump before installation? What do you mean by "priming the motor"? Were you spinning it over on the starter?
  15. KiwiRS4T
    1.5 bar is nothing - do not go by numbers - your tuner should keep increasing boost until it becomes counter productive and similarly tune to max with regard to exhaust temps knock control etc. You will get what you get.
  16. KiwiRS4T
    If they are a good brand , yes, as above, you just need to Google to find the agents and they can be fixed.
  17. KiwiRS4T
    What do you mean by OEM style coils? The only coils we like are proper OEM or Splitfires. The rest are varying degrees of rubbish. Can you swap out the coils from the known good car (assuming they are the same? BCPR5ES should have been fine but plugs are probably not the problem. O2 sensor should not be a factor under power. Do you have a fuel pressure tester? More likely to suspect too little rather than too much fuel. Not a fan of putting old fuel pumps of any sort in a car - they are a hassle to fit and new pumps are quite cheap so would prefer to do it once and be sure. Have you pressure tested the intercooler piping? Pull the hose off the turbo and put some kind of fitting with a tyre valve and make sure there are no leaks up to about 15 to 20 psi just to be sure.
  18. KiwiRS4T
    You still haven't said if you replaced your brake fluid with new high temp stuff. If you didn't there would be a fairly high water content and it wouldn't take much to get boiling and subsequent loss of braking power. For some reason D2 suspension is rubbish that breaks easily but my D2 brakes performed well on the track (and street).
  19. KiwiRS4T
    Doesn't really matter the head will have to come off and the pistons out. You can measure the bores and see if they are glazed. If they are within spec you may be able to rough them up with a suitable hone. Get a professional to look at your rings or compare them with a new set. When the motor is rebuilt do not start it until you have an aftermarket ecu set for your injectors and get it tuned on the dyno with a load of mineral oil or special running in oil. By the time it has had a few full power pulls on the dyno it should be half way run in .(if you can't afford to buy and tune an aftermarket ecu - about $3000 - then return the engine to stock until you can) . The head gasket will not have a significant effect on your compression ratio although I would be inclined to get a 1.2 Tomei gasket which you can reuse if (hopefully not) you have to pull it down again. PS and don't keep starting new threads for the same issue!!
  20. KiwiRS4T
    Why not? Its not the injectors at fault but the stuff you put in your petrol.
  21. KiwiRS4T
    Just about all Nissans. Skylines, Stageas etc
  22. KiwiRS4T
    Google will answer all your questions. AWD has a diff in the sump.
  23. KiwiRS4T
    If you don't run it hard from the off you can glaze the bores and it will always use oil. If you are pulling the head off you need to get a cross hatch happening on the cylinder walls with a suitable hone. But the two spark plugs on the left indicate a more immediate problem. Why are they rusted? Where is the water coming from? Is it leaking from the head or just some over-enthusiastic hosing of the engine? Your compressions are way too low. Test is ideally done with a hot engine. All plugs removed. Pull lead off the CAS. Test 1- 6 and then as above drop some oil in each cylinder and repeat. You shouldn't be racing it untuned. Do you actually have an aftermarket ECU? Have you just dropped in bigger injectors without tuning for them? You may just have washed away the oil from your rings with excess petrol.
  24. KiwiRS4T
    Change fuel filters, airfilter, oil filter and oils. Check and see if there is any evidence of the cam belt having been changed. Good luck!
  25. KiwiRS4T
    How many KM since rebuild? Has head been planed - checked for straightness? correctly torqued? rings properly bedded in? Got a new oil pump? Any oil restrictors fitted? Returns bored out? If you run out of ideas do a compression test and or leakdown test and then pull the head off - examine the gasket, check the head and block (maybe get the head crack tested) - check the bores to see if they are glazed.
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