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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. KiwiRS4T
    Yes R32 and R33 GTR diffs are interchangeable. Regarding the one way two way question read this thread:
  2. KiwiRS4T
    Here are some: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/electrics/auction-1382278375.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/auction-1382902233.htm and in fact I think the RB20DET are the same: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/electrics/auction-1385553788.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/electrics/auction-1385554094.htm and if they are (2371 02U11) you could buy one of the cheap ones and get it recond (if necessary).
  3. KiwiRS4T
    R32 and R33 GTR are all 4.1 I don't believe the stock OEM LSD is a 2 way (although I stand to be corrected). Teeth numbers are 37 on crownwheel 9 on pinion so divide latter into former to get the ratio = 4.11111111111111111111
  4. KiwiRS4T
    2000 KW
  5. KiwiRS4T
    Fault finding on the Attessa is done on the Attessa ECU where there is alleged to be a blinking light (haven't done it myself). If you haven't already you need to run a wire from the TPS to the Atessa ECU when you fit a Link. Have you checked the reservoir level? Tried bleeding it (one nipple at the back of the gearbox another above the diff)?
  6. KiwiRS4T
    I can't believe even Nissan would charge you $3800 for a couple of cat converters. George will sell you some for about $250 each http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MRC-VENOM-high-flow-stainless-4-100mm-100-cell-Catalytic-Cat-converter-/272247611761?epid=1568194159&hash=item3f6338e171:g:jagAAOSwjXRXbhlq
  7. KiwiRS4T
    Are you sure its the pump failing or are you emptying the sump? Try over filling by one litre and see if it makes any difference. Tomei is the best pump although N1 pump should do it. A few years ago there was a string of N1 failures although some people put that down to a batch of knock offs. Since you will have to pull the engine to change the pump you may as well use the opportunity to fit some oil restrictors. Have a read of the last half or third of this thread:
  8. KiwiRS4T
    White with Blue Trace - Ground Orange with Black Trace- Signal Black with White Trace - 12v Power courtesy Paul R33
  9. KiwiRS4T
    Yes
  10. KiwiRS4T
    Pressure test the fuel system. FPRs rarely fail but good to check. have you replaced the fuel filter in the engine bay? Long shot if you can swap out the ecu with someone just to eliminate that as a problem.
  11. KiwiRS4T
    ^^What he said and put a straight edge on the manifold while its off.
  12. KiwiRS4T
    Change the fluid and if you want fit a cooler to the system. Small one should do.
  13. KiwiRS4T
    Go to the workshop who installed it.
  14. KiwiRS4T
    If you are talking about replacing the parking brake linings they are all the same regardless of the rotor diameter. Oops that applies to 5 stud...don't know about 4 stud.
  15. KiwiRS4T
    There is at least one thread here - use Google to search.
  16. KiwiRS4T
    Stop guessing. Like Ben said drain the sump and see how much comes out. If it is new oil you can put it back in but make sure you put 5.5 or so litres until you see it on the dip stick. You say you have lots of blow by - what does your exhaust look like? You may be burning heaps. Do a compression test. maybe your engine is stuffed. If its not now it soon will be if you keep driving it with no oil pressure.
  17. KiwiRS4T
    You could check to see if the cradle is still where it is supposed to be. Of course the problem could be elsewhere. Have you changed the filter in the engine bay? Get a fuel pressure gauge and see if you are getting the correct pressure. Fuel Pressure Regulators rarely fail but its a possibility Check the wiring at the pump - especially for a clean earth..
  18. KiwiRS4T
    Normally the Walbro will work ok as a straight replacement. (It works better directly wired, but that's another story). Because it is smaller than the stock pump it has to be properly secured in the cradle. The sock (filter) has to be properly attached, The stock wiring should be fine. Run the petrol in your tank down to nearly empty and check out the pump for yourself. remove the fuel lines and wind off the retaining ring (it may be very tight) and have a look (a torch would be handy)..If it looks dodgy get your mechanic mate to come round and fix it.
  19. KiwiRS4T
    Heater hose?
  20. KiwiRS4T
    Get your lever chrome plated? Put the stock knob back on?
  21. KiwiRS4T
    I think you'll find second GTR diffs hard to come by and brand new Nismos competitive in price. Nismos are a popular replacement for the rear diff but djr81 is pointing out that the 2 way and 1.5 way can be clunky. The one way will be fine after it is run in and has the appropriate oil in it.
  22. KiwiRS4T
    OP's diff is way past shimming - it has been welded up.
  23. KiwiRS4T
    A good engineering supplies shop will have them (maybe not Bunnings).
  24. KiwiRS4T
    R32GTR and R33GTR are the same: Diff specs.pdf
  25. KiwiRS4T
    What is a Tomei "valc" cam?
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