KiwiRS4T

Check out better centre plate e.g. OS Giken

Use only OEM (should be able to get genuine Nissan for less than $900 these days) or Splitfires. Don't bother with anything else.

The R33 one is 75mm thick ARC Mo75 ECR33G but if yours is 105mm thick (and 205 x 220mm) then its an ARC M105 ER34G. It should be good for over 300 hp but side mounts are subject to heat soak if hammered around town. You are better off with a front mount but it may be worth a few $$ to someone who wants to look stock. There was a time when I would have paid $300 for one but no idea what you could get now.

Drill it out and replace it.

Try a compression test and/or leakdown test but sounds like head off job.

You are assuming that your set-up will run OK at 23 psi. If you are confident about that - no problem - but if there is any doubt you should have a set of lower springs to hand so that you don't have to return to the tuner for another session. Also if you find that you will be regularly running 35 psi you may want springs for 28 or so psi.

Walbro 460 lph will support 500 hp - just buy two and fit one for now.

Its not really a good starting point as they are an anti-pollution measure. However I am aware that many people have removed them and don't know of anyone that has gone to jail as a result...

Ideally you would get an engine builder who is experienced with RB engines but if you show him the above he should know what is being suggested. For the amount of money and work I would want at least north of 300RWKW and so a better turbo is indicated. You could sell your (probably) old school injectors and the turbo and get ID1000s and a more modern turbo. A good tune is going to cost around $1000 so you may as well try to get your set-up right first time. The throttle body will be fine but you will need an adapter plate for the Greddy manifold and a longer throttle cable. If you are going to run a cat get a 5in Venom

Its kind of stating the obvious and in any case any modern auto will change up when you hit the maximum speed for that gear anyway. As for the best place to change up it depends on a lot of things but on my Stagea it would normally be at 6000 if you look at my charts (attached) A manual is a book that tells you how to operate the car!

But you don't need paddle shifters to achieve your aims whatever they may be. If you read the manual and learn to drive properly you can change gear at max revs, less than max revs, kick down to a lower gear etc etc

Load of cobblers. Paddle shift is not going to give you 30% more power and torque. Existing controls will allow you to hang on to max revs in gears or change down early. A paddle shifter on its own will not transform your car into a rally car or F1 race car. More of a problem on newer cars is the fly by wire throttle control. Look up ways to sharpen that up instead.

Google "Toyota Forum"

Stagea or GTR wheel should fit.

Running an RB30/25DET on stock 4.1 ratio is too busy for my taste. I would prefer R34 3.545 diff so in my opinion 3.89 should be fine. With an RB30 it would be near perfect but with an RB25 with about 280RWKW it should be great.

You can't really change the injectors with the stock ecu. You could get them cleaned and tested. Did the mechanic actually pull out a spark plug to have a look? By the time you have gone that far one would normally change the plugs anyway. If you look in the DIY section you will find a guide to changing the plugs. get new ones gapped down to 0.8mm. Give the coils a good clean and if you see any burn marks where they have been shorting you should ideally replace them with OEM or Splitfires (or at least spray or wrap them with insulating tape). If you can go through the list in the previous post. Dirty air filter is a top suspect. There is a DIY somewhere on how to clean AFM. If you want to know how to do something Google the question first and you will usually find the answer. If you don't usually do your own work get a few tools and start now or your Skyline will keep you poor!!

Contact scotty nm35 http://scottyscustoms.com.au/ and he will sell you the right bits at the right price.

9.2:1 will be great. How much power are you after? Are you thinking of a 3076 or something bigger?

Which sensor? Also believe there were a lot of fake Sard FPRs around...- Running OK now? What are you making with the 3582?

Its not available in NZs largest city (Auckland)! It is available in Pukekohe (near race track) so mostly just for track cars. A few people buy by the barrel but too much trouble for most.

Well if its just two definitely get them repaired - sounds steep though...

Its do-able. Depending on the pistons etc you are using you need to check that the CR will not be TOO high. Cam duration is the same as DET and inlet lift is the same but exhaust lift is smaller. Should be OK with the right turbo.

Look in the parts for sale and advertise in the parts wanted.

Google is your friend. e.g.. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATTESA

When you do the spark plugs give the coils a good clean and look for marks where they might have been shorting. Treat with insulating spray or tape. If your wheels are too wide sell them and get tyres that are not stretched for your new wheels. You have a boost controller? That implies that you have a turbo - if so that's a mod on a GTS!