Jump to content
SAU Community

KiwiRS4T

Contributor
  • Posts

    9,451
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. Synthetic oil will withstand higher temps but anything over 120 deg C is getting a bit hot. If its on the street you have a big problem. What is your water temp?
  2. Alternatively you could take the front diff you have now and transplant it into the turbo casing. But if you leave the front and put a 4.1 into the rear you could look for a proper mechanical LSD
  3. If front and rear rolling radius is not the same the transfer case could be stuffed. Or it just has stuffed cv joints. Any turbo AWD you get will have a 4.1 diff which means you have to change the c/w and pinion in the sump or the diff at the back to match.
  4. Your method sounds ok so long as you are measuring with the car on the ground both times. Take the wheel and the spacer off. Check that the spacer is 30mm (measure its thickness). Put the wheel back on and drop the car to the ground. Re measure the distance to where you want the wheel to be (flush with the guard, or just inside it). BTW make sure that if your wheel studs stick out past the spacer that there is an appropriate place for them to go into the wheel..and that you have used the special flush spacer nuts...i.e. check that the wheel is seating flush on the spacer and not on the wheel studs or the nuts.
  5. Is that from AU or the US?
  6. The only good way is to take them out and send them away for proper cleaning and testing. But in the meantime after you have attempted to start the car pull the plugs out and see if they are wet. You need to try to establish whether you have a fueling or spark issue.
  7. Get a surge tank. You will be fine.
  8. Can you not use the wire that went to the factory relay?
  9. You measured wrong or they are not 30mm spacers. Don't forget front and rear will be different.
  10. Part numbers if it helps: bearing pinion - 38120-03V00 bearing pinion - 38140-03V00 BRG taper...... - 38440-03V01 x 2 BRS-side shaft.- 38440-03V10 seal oil..............- 38342-03V01 seal oil............. - 38342-03V11 ring o retainer...- 38343-03V01 seal-oil drive.... - C8189-03V00
  11. Don't bother until you have saved up for the ECU etc.
  12. Yes you will likely need R33 M/C to clear manifold and a longer throttle cable.
  13. That's a big turbo for a stock 25 - will not be much good on the road.
  14. Should be straight swap.You may need the speedo drive from the GTS4.
  15. It is a good idea to change the front pipe to 3in.
  16. Try disconnecting it (its the sensor with 2 wires that goes to the ecu). If it works better (from a default setting in the ecu) then get a new sensor.
  17. R32 GTR wheels are strong and lightweight. I used to track an earlier Stagea I had with them:
  18. Presumably Nissan will have the gear to make it work...as in programming a new key
  19. Well built RB26 engines are sometimes revved up to 10,000 rpm. With the proper tool I would have thought that you could interrogate the ecu to find what rev limit it is set to.
  20. Get some engine cleaner and try to clean it as best you can. That will help spot where its leaking from.
  21. Who ever chipped the ecu could easily have disabled the rev limiter or raised the limit. Hopefully the engine was fully balanced but can you not find out from the previous owner?
  22. BCPR6ES would be better. When you say you have changed the coils do you mean you have replaced the red jackets? They are not the best. OEM or Splitfires are the only reeliable coils. Does it go on to make full power after the stutter? If not maybe your injectors need a clean.
  23. The only proper way is to make the guards fit - possibly too much for a roller - you may need the assistance of a panel beater. Alternatively buy wheels that do fit - with the right offset and width.
  24. Nice car! First step would be a proper ECU such as a Link...
×
×
  • Create New...