GTSBoy

Tell us. Why did it not go above 26 psi? Pinging? Turbo won't flow any more? But to go back to your sort of question.....yes, 26 psi is quite a lot of boost on plain dinosaur jizz.

What? 98bp, as in BP Ultimate 98 octane? Who's surprised? Seems reasonable to me. Want more, need more octane, no?

More than likely some numpty has f**ked with the wiring running from the front of the car back to the CC module. Get the wiring diagram out and check for continuity.

That's the resonator, or a flexible joint? Either way.....f**k!

It's missing. Likely it is one of the coils dying when it gets hot enough. Take you 30 minutes to fix it.

Actually, adjustable arms are not trivial. It's easy to set the camber arm to get the camber you desire. It is much harder to set the traction arm length to minimise bump steer. Almost no-one ever does it, and almost all installations are probably worse than the stock arms because of it. It's a circular process. Set the camber arm length to get camber right. This requires that you take a stab at changing the traction arm length also. Then you have to take it off the wheel aligner (probably), jack it up off the ground, set up your bump steer gauge, fiddle with the traction arm length until you have minimal bump steer, then put it back on the wheel aligner and check and correct the camber, then probably back to the bump steer gauge to make sure that you haven't spoiled it. Rinse and repeat until no changes are required. Might take one back and forth, or might take 6. If you take it to a wheel aligner to do the whole process, it would want to be an expert at setting up this stuff, not your local Bob Jane, etc. And it will cost a lot more for the labour/service than for the arms.

Just to be clear....the FPR is installed in the return line from the rail to the tank....yes?

That's just weird.

Shouldn't.

The KU22 (the real code for the Ecsta 4X) is hardly a performance tyre. It's literally labelled as a "comfort tyre" by Kumho. The KU36 was a performance tyre, though now replaced by the V720. I will confess that my car (R32 with 25Neo) will easily light up the rears on a launch, unless the tyres (V720s) are really warm. R32s are, however, renowned for not having as good rear geometry as they put onto the 33s onwards. And the car is also >100kg lighter than a 33 or 34, which doesn't help with weight transfer on launch. And it is set up for corners. </excuses>

I suspect it would be wise to use at least one of those top-of-water-runner fittings you plan to nuke as a bleeder. On a Neo, the rear one goes to the IACV which is a bleed point, and I think the front one is a bleed on the front end of the plenum too, no?

Was talking about the compressor wheel......

Kings low generally leaves the car at legal height. The legal eyebrow height for most R32-4 it about 345-355 mm from the top of the (stock, unmodified) wheel arch to the centre of the hub cap. You can actually do a search to find out exactly what it is for R33s front and rear.

SR for street biased car with some hope of track. I suspect Type D might be a bit wrong for the street. But that's only a suspicion. SR somewhat cheaper too.

Don't mistake 12.9 with the bolt size. The studs are indeed 12mm, but that has nothing to do with 12.9. 12.9 is a strength spec for bolts. You want 12mm x 1.25 studs. Studs will be the same between GT & GTT. No reason for them to be different. As to how to find this info out....there are wheel nut & stud suppliers who have catalogues. Nice Products is the leading one in Oz. But you could measure it yourself. The length is what sticks out the front of the hub, plus the thickness of the hub.

They're both the same. WRX one is just idling 300rpm lower than the "good" one. Both sound normal but possibly with a slight miss.

Good as it's gunna get. Just needs an extra 20mm of diameter.

I'm not going to go into the physics details, because it will start arguments, but wider tyres do not produce more grip on their own. it comes down more to larger diameter wheels allowing lower profile tyres causing less distortion of the tyre carcass which causes less internal frictional heating which then allows the use of softer compounds. And the softer compounds cause the coefficient of friction to increase, which is what gives more grip. So, technically, even without a wider tyre you could have a tyre with a softer compound and pick up grip. A good diff will help with launch traction, but it's not the only (or even the main) thing going on. There's a lot of other factors that can be wrong or right, from wheel alignment (specifically camber and toe), to spring and damper rates. I recently found that decreasing my rear ARB from 24mm to 22mm not only improved the grip in corners, but somewhat surprisingly improved launch traction. I think this is because it changed the spring-damper coupling, allowing a bit more movement (twist, if you want to think of the way the car will move as the traction load gets applied around the tailshaft). Not expected, but it's there. After that there's all sorts of other shit, like the health of the diff and subframe bushes. An no. The Vspec diff is the very very worst thing that you could think of putting in there. Have a read about them. At least it is sufficiently close to impossible for you to actually put one in there that you won't make the actual mistake of trying.

Wow. Just.....wow.

Yeah, it doesn't need to be so wide/high up the top. If you narrow the width from behind the wheel opening as it goes past the fuel filler and possibly slope the top edge down/out so that you don't have so much material about the fuel filler hole, it will probably still look phat where you need it (at the wheel) and not so hippy further back.

Somewhat crazy pricing. Only supportable when people who have more money than sense get into the market. Sadly, there are enough of them in all markets these days. If it were a real GTR then large money makes sense. As it's just an old Skyline with a lot of mods, the mods either add some value (about 20% of what they cost) or they add almost nothing....because the mods can often be one-way (ie, hard to undo). Is it a cool car? Yup. Would I like to have it? Yup. Are there other people out there who think the same as me and have a lot more money to throw around? Yup. Sadly.

This. The smart way, and Chequered should be able to handle it. It's not as easy on PowerFC as on Nistune, but still doable. *edit* I somewhat missed the fact that it was a PFC when I responded the first time this thread came up. But it's there.

Get video. It's not going to be possible to do this without seeing/hearing it, and the Carib is too far away! Also, time a run to 100km/h before it goes bad and then another one after, so we can see what difference it might be making there. Even with all that, I'm not making any promises. This shit usually turns out to be something totally unexpected and strange, like a plastic sack wrapped around the tailshaft or a coke can jammed in the exhaust - that sort of weird shit.

Harley noise, as in, it is misfiring? When does it make the noise? All the time it is running (once it starts)? Only on boost? Only at certain revs?

Gran Tourismo is what happens when grey nomads get a caravan and a Prado and clog up the highways.