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Showing results for tags 'r33'.
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Hi All, Recently my A/C would only blow stinking hot air which was awfully uncomfortable to drive in but it's been too cold to have it off. It started off that it was sporadic but eventually got worse. After some soul searching I found out that the part is a the Air Mix/Blend actuator which controls how much fresh air vs heater air comes through the vents. Tools/Requirements: - Soldering Iron and Solder - Assorted Phillips head and flat head screw drivers - Vice to hold everything - Power supply to test the motor itself - Permanent marker to mark existing points - Sand paper Difficulty: - Low Time Required: - 1 Hour Optional: - Brand new OEM mix actuator - Used OEM working mix actuator 1) Start by testing the actuator using the diagnostics system - If you have error 26, the problem is most certainly the actuator http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426605-aircon-diagnostics-r33/ 2) Locate the actuator under the drivers side dash to the left 3) Remove cap holding the actuator rod in place, mark the rod for reference and pop the rod out of it's "seat" 4) Disconnect the wiring connector from the mix actuator 5) Remove the three securing screws shown below and take the actuator out of the car *over to the bench* 6) Mark some reference points on the arm for the actuator - This will make it easier to assemble again later 7) Unscrew the actuator off its mounting bracket 8) Remove the two screws that seal the housing 9) Using a flat head screwdriver gently pry the arm off the actuator 10) Separate the two clips that hold the housing together from the side and gently open the actuator case 11) Remove all of the little gears from the housing and set them aside somewhere they won't roll away 12) Remove the circuit board and motor from the housing to reveal the last large gear with contacts on it 13) Gently bend the contacts upwards to ensure they haven't been worn out and bent over time - Give the contacts a light sand at while you're at it 14) Clean the contact surface on the circuit board - I wasn't sure what sort of grease this was so I left a thin coat on the board anyway 15) Connect a power source to the motor terminals to ensure the motor still functions - If not see the options above or look at a replacement motor (from Jaycar or other electronics stores or eBay) 16) Take your soldering iron and melt the solder on the joints of the board - Take the time to add a bit more solder where necessary 17) If all went well work your way back from step 12 and test the actuator again
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Hello all, I don't see any PDF online of this service manual being in OCR, so I'm posting a link of one I made. OCR makes it so much easier to find things, being able to search the document with Adobe Reader. (old link removed). new link - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B495mmNsnU6uYzAwLV9fVW9WREk/view?resourcekey=0-Qa9Lfekqc5AnkoecCkM5xg It's 489 pages long. -
Set of R33 GTST Calipers, Rotors and Pads. Calipers just taken off my car, rebuilt about ~30,000km ago. Rotors have done about ~20,000km total since new. Pads have plenty of meat. One set is DBA XP (road, hills) and the other set is Forza FR6 (track) Still working perfectly, not rusted, or seized or whatever the hell that greets used brakes. All clips, bolts, retainers, slide pins etc included. Also have OEM handbrake shoes I can throw in there if you're doing a conversion. $650 for the lot, SE Suburbs Melboune/VIC -
ATTAKD 356mm Brake Kit for R34 GTT or R33 GTST. Same brake kit as per here from JJ: https://justjap.com/products/attkd-brake-kit-nissan-skyline-r34-99-02?currency=AUD Can confirm these will bolt directly to a R33 GTST with 12mm bolts OR to a R34 GTT (which is what I had) with the supplied bolts and the collets for the 14mm bolt holes in the R34, which are included. Also included is a set of rotors and hats, as well as 2x brake pad sets. 1) DBA XP (street, hills) 2) Forza FR6 (track) These are radial mounted and bolt directly to R33/R34. You will need extended brake lines to avoid them being full stretch on lock - this is common for all BBK's with the bolt point being in the center. In my case I welded another stud about 25mm lower than the OEM one and retained stock lines and fittings. You'll want a BM57 BMC to get the most out of these. I speak from experience. $1800 (neg for SAU people), located SE Suburbs Melbourne.
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Brand new, no longer needed These retail over $500-Asking 380 FPR2000 (there largest in that model) can flow huge power, only mod is AN3 vacuum port-Driven less that 5k’s bexley area -
Hi everyone, i Need to replace my Front Lower Ball Joints. I got the old ones out of the FCA and now i‘m having a Hard Time to get the new ones in. i measured the diameter of the FCA, which is 40,3mm. The new Ball Joints are 41,3mm. The Supplier confirmed that These are the Right diameters. i cooled down the Ball Joints and heated up the FCA. They still won‘t fit in (using a hydraulic press), which doesn‘t suprise me Because of the 1mm oversize. How did u manage to get these in?? car is a 33 gtst.
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Looking for a 1995 gts25-t with this body kit on it or just the body kit itself would also be a option I would consider -
Before you say this has been covered, I have exhausted over an hour today trying to navigate this site and going through greddy install diy posts. I don't need help on the full install I am fine with that I am confused on one aspect. Every greddy plenum I see installed in photos online do not show the aac valve connected to the pipe preceding the throttle body. When I look at the diy or other forum topics none of the images load, whether that's because the post is from over 10 years ago I'm not sure. If anyone can confirm what they did with their aac valve when installing a greddy plenum I'd greatly appreciate it. My tuner has heavily recommended I keep this for a number of reasons, suffice to say he is one of the best in qld. Car details - Rb25det - linkg4x - greddy plenum - high mount turbo gt35 - 1000cc injectors - forged pistons rods etc Situation - Street use and drift car at the track, not a daily car but would prefer to keep a/c and cold start. If anyone has any reccomendations, id appreciate it as i said. It doesnt make sense to me putting this into the pipe preceding the throttle body on top as its ugly and i csnt see that on any other setup, unless everyone runs it underneath or not at all im very confused... 😁
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Hey guys, Currently in the market looking to purchase a clean history r33 gtr. I'm open to colours,series and mods as long as the car is clean and hasn't been bashed up/rusted. If you are considering selling please hit me up! Located in Victoria but willing to travel for the right car. Have cash waiting
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Hi I'm having trouble with my bov. Got it all recirculated but when I put the vacuum line on the bov I get no boost. The previous owner had blocked the bov and had the vacuum line running back to the other lines. Could it be the bov has a big leak? Sorry still new to turbo cars. It's a r33 with a rb25det. Cheers
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Hi SAU, Having boost related issue with my BCNR33. Car is making no boost! Triple gauge is registering vacuum, needle moves from negative to 0kg/cm2. Car drives normally, no sputtering or misfiring. AFRs also reading normal. Acceleration feels normal up until 3500rpm or so where you can begin to feel the lack of grunt. No woosh sounds either, just the sound of the HKS mushrooms sucking air. Just a little background on the car: HKS2530s, 2.8, E85, VIPEC V88, ~20psi max boost, 4in Exhaust. Recently had front turbo oil feed replaced by mechanic due to the old one being cracked. Got car back from them on a Sat and it was boosting fine but felt a little underpowered. Didn't drive car again till Wed. This is when is stopped boosting all together. Didn't hear any bang/pop, didn't notice any smoke either. Currently waiting to hear back from mechanic. In the mean time have inspected piping on both hot and cold sides (also checked FMIC piping behind indicator grilles) for potential boost leak, however wasn't able to find anything loose or hissing. Doing a little research on these forums leads me to believe that it could be a blown turbo or a blocked/malfunctioning CAT. All of the posts regarding no boost and blown turbos usually are owners with ceramic wheel turbos, which mine aren't. With my limited mechanical knowledge and tools I've taken as much piping as I can to check the turbos. The front turbo looks okay? It spins freely and has no shaft play. Don't have the tools to check the rear turbo as I can't get that elbow looking thing off to inspect the wheel. I'm yet to inspect the CAT. Question: If one turbos blown will I be getting half the amount of full boost or just no boost at all? Question: What are the chances of the CAT causing the absence of boost? I assume it would have been the ceramic wheels dropping into them. But again, I'm certain I don't have ceramic wheels. Question: What do you reckon is causing no boost? Appreciate any and all help!
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Hi new to the skyline and car scene. I just picked up an r33 with a rb25det engine. I need to recirculate the stock bov but I'm at a loss. I've done a fair bit of research on it but can't seem to get my head around it anyone brisbane based who could help for cash or know any shops that could fit me in quick. Cheers
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Hey guys, I've recently manual swapped my RB25DE Skyline and have put a RB20E gearbox in. The RB20E gearbox is out of a series 1 R33 and my R33 is a series 2. Since doing the swap, I've noticed my speedo is reading just over double and the odometer is rolling the ks over faster. I have kept the original auto cluster in for now untill I can source a manual one. Could this be because of the transducer/speedo sensor? If so, which one would I need to get to get an accurate speed? An RB20E as this is what the gearbox is, or a RB25DE? Or could the issue be something else entirely? Cheers -
Hi guys a recently purchased R33 Gtst automatic is driving normally some days then it'll just completely lose responsiveness but once stopped the key will start the car as if nothing had just happened. if anyone has experience with this issue that would be extremely helpful. The mechanic we brought it to said they "fixed it" but no it definitely was not fixed. Please if anyone has experience anything would help, Thank you! -
From the album: Kimmeh
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Hello all, I have a 1996 Skyline r33 GTS-T. This question is a two-parter. Firstly, and more simply, my r33 has GT-R Brembo Brakes. I am buying new pads and rotors. Can I correctly assume that any GTR-Brake/Rotor that was originally compatible with the r33 is going to be the same shape/size, regardless of the model? By that I mean, without knowing exactly what GT-R model these Brembo brakes came from, I can safely buy r33 GT-R sized brake pads and rotors and should be fairly safe in them fitting correctly? My second question is a bit more complex. I do not know if the previous owner put in Glycol-based brake fluid (DOT 4) or Silicone-based brake fluid (DOT 5). I did a test, by extracting some fluid from the reservoir and adding water. The brake fluid and water DID NOT mix, implying it is Silicone-based, but also the brake-fluid isn't purple, which is really throwing me for a loop. So, to be absolutely safe, I've decided instead just carry out a full fluid flush and replace with Glycol-based, especially since I am putting new pads and rotors on anyways. However, I am uncertain as to what the best method would be. I have read that I should use denatured alcohol (methylated spirits) to push the original brake fluid out, then use cheap DOT 3 to flush the system, then put in my proper high quality DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 brake fluid of choice. Is this correct? I've never done this before and want to make sure this is a proper method. I've also read that I should use compressed air to fully flush out the denatured alcohol, but I'm sure I understand how that works? Would I just hook up an air compressor pump to the brake fluid reservoir and open all the bleeder valves? I appreciate any/all advice, links and sources, and information you can provide. Thank you
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Haven't done much with, or driven, the R33 lately as I have been busy working on another car, Project X...no wait, Operation White Thunder...yes that's better. Couple of weeks back though, taking the 33 out of the driveway (it's not steep, fairly shallow and mostly flat) when I hear a crack turning left. Then found the car was jammed, not reversing or forward-ing..looked and found front passenger wheel sitting on an angle I would describe as, not right at all. Turns out it was a broken toe-arm mount on the knuckle. Fk knows how it broke, as I hadn't hit anything, but I'm guessing might have been too much caster, being lowered, using roll centre balljoint and tie-rod joint, that might have been causing binding and stress over time. It was a hell-mission to get it back into the driveway and into the garage though I can say. Any other thoughts on why this would break are welcome, cos it's a pretty thick heavy duty bit of cast-ness, not something to just snap on a whim. The welding is from me trying to do a temp fix on it, but that lasted about 3 metres, broke at first turn. Couldn't find a 2nd knuckle, so bought the GK Tech knuckle set. First thing, they are LIGHT. Weighed in at 3.7kg, vs nearly 6kg for an OEM knuckle. Some pics I've fitted the passenger-side knuckle already; fits just fine for the most part. A few things. They drop the car by 20mm, which GKTech say clearly on their website. My Blitz coilovers don't have much lengthen adjustment, so couldn't raise the car, so have dragged an old set of BC's out to get it back to the correct ride height for me, as they have alot more height adjustment. More on that to follow. The tie-rod mount is much further out, so you MUST use a longer tie rod, which GKTech also clearly note. More on that to follow. They have wayyy more angle, so much so that I can't turn the wheel much without the rim grinding and sticking on the sway bar ...sorry GTSBoy 😛 anti-roll bar. I have another set of rims with 3mm more offset so will put them on but it'll still contact I feel. Rims are a 17x9 27mm offset with 255/40/17 tyres. If you use a bigger brake kit (I use the ATTKD front brakes) the mounting bracket won't fit. I had to cut out a section for the bracket to sit flush on the brake caliper mount. As per these> Don't think it will matter as there' still tons of reinforcement but, not just bolt-on if you have bigger brakus. -
Hey guys, Been a long time since I owned anything from japan 14 or years or so. I worked for an importer back in the day and let me tell you a lot has changed! I not long bought myself a 30 year old boat from Tas, from a mate down there, and had it shipped up here to NSW. It needs a bit of work but it's got a really good built engine with less than 500km on it. I've started cleaning it up and giving it some much deserved love and it's looking a million times better than it did when I picked it up. Tomorrow it goes in for a new Haltech 2500 elite, a good look over, and then a tune. Fingers crossed for a good result! Look forward to meeting you guys on a cruise sometime soon! Cheers Grassy (The first photo with the Tassie plate is the day I picked it up from the transport yard) (Second photo is how it is now, not finished but lots cleaner than it was)
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Used OEM S1 front bar and S1 front lip for BCNR33 (62022-24U10, 96015-24U10) $1750 Bar and lip are damaged and therefore price is negotiable, so offer away! Brand new through Nissan's heritage program, expect to pay well over $2,500 for a new bar and lip. Damage is as follows: - holes from canards - heavy scrape on right side of lip - medium scrape on left side of lip - medium impact on right side (close to intercooler, check photos) - mesh coming off Damage is repairable! Would still be cheaper to fix and paint this one over buying a brand new one from Nissan! Bar is currently painted in K23 silver. Will NOT come with all mounting hardware (nuts and bolts)! No indicators! Pick up Casey area! -
From the album: SAU VIC Motorsports Championship
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From the album: SAU VIC Motorsports Championship
© www.circuitthreads.com
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From the album: SAU VIC Motorsports Championship
© www.circuitthreads.com
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From the album: SAU VIC Motorsports Championship
© www.circuitthreads.com
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From the album: R33 GTR
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From the album: BluSky
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