Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Get a better regulator, those Sard ones aren't good at dampening the fuel pulsation also they're not E85 friendly. I always install Turbosmart FPR1200 FPRs on cars I work on.

Save you the headache, also because the Adaptronic is semi sequential injection there will be a level of "thumping" from the fuel system. I had to install an additional fuel pulsation damper by Radium to suppress the fuel pulsations to get full control of my injectors. Had leaning out issues in low load, and high rpm areas due to the pulsation not being dampened. 

I guess some of yous already seen, we've started modding RB20det for the next couple of week and see how far we can get before hurting driving ability.

So the car is an 93 model GTS-4, good condition and solid. Its fully stock with an cat back exhaust and a blitz return flow cooler only. Its running a R33 GTST turbocharger at 10psi and it is as slow as it gets. 

enginebay.jpg

rfront.jpg

lfront.jpg

So far I've ordered:

Split fire coil packs

Z32 AFM

470L Walbro pump

JJR front pipe with 100 cell cat

650cc Siemens injectors

Nistune ECU

The first turbo I will be fitting will be an ball bearing ATR43SS-1. 

  • Like 1
4 hours ago, Missileman said:

that's a funny looking R32

 

Yuh.  If the rear guards weren't so pox I'd almost consider doing such a thing to mine.  Although there's so much tupperware on it that I'd inevitably feel bad about doing it.

The worst thing about that particular instance that Stao has bought though is that it appears to have been painted by 3 different people in 3 different locations, then assembled!

Edited by GTSBoy
hopeless spellink.

For the amount of exterior work is not bad. It used to be Jesse Customs personal car two years ago. any way, parts started to arrive and I will update with prices and places.

I'm using siemens 610cc injectors @ $60 each and Walbro 470L pump @ $200 each from Injectorsonline . com

fuelinjpump.JPG

Z32 AFM and plug cost $250 from Dev industries

http://www.hypergearturbos.com/photos/r32/z32afm.JPG

  • Like 3
  • 3 weeks later...
On 18/08/2016 at 2:48 PM, hypergear said:

Here is one more result that are worth posting.

This is from one of my troubled customers whom like many others using stealth setups including a return flow cooler and a silent exhaust. Obviously it made a petty 260rwkws P98 using our ATR43SS2 turbocharger with a massive boost drop. The SS2 however have held a dead flat 20psi on my R33 peeking 302rwkws. Fixing that boost drop problem, he went all the troubles fitting up an External gate that made only a 5kws gain. His disappointment anger and frustration has been directed to the turbo and my self.   

During that time, initial ATR45SAT was first made and tested by Havoc Fabrications at 420rwkws. An upgrade request was made by the customer so the same turbo was built and sent for the exchange of the ATR43SS2 which I'm yet to receive. With nothing else apart from the turbo change and E85, the car made an disappointing 354rwkws, that have sparked more heated conversations, to prove my product I have later managed to use the same turbo beating his E85 result running internal gate on less boost.

Red- My internally gated result vs Blue - under performing externally gated result

vsfarzampower.JPG

vsfarzamboost.JPG

 

Finding out reasons and answers in solving those issues, I have bought my 2nd and 3rd R34, picked the exact same mods used, guess what I ended up with same crappy result. Investigation pointed to the Blitz return flow cooler, the 2.5 inches resonator inside Jap exhausts as well as the EPA approved compliance cat, test results of those are documented in my earlier updates of this thread.

 

A proper front mount cooler is finally fitted, with a good cold air induction system and a free flow exhaust installed. using the same turbocharger the car has now hit 400rwkws on E85 fuel:

power.jpg

Vs controlled result:

atr45sat.jpg

 

enginebay.jpg

 

This is an perfect example of how important it is picking the right supporting and differences it makes to overall performance.

What make is that airbox please?

^ looks like a custom CAI box to suit factory snorkel 

stao, thats a great price on the afm, i cant seem to find Dev industries anywhere :huh:, care to link me up to where i can purchase it ? :banana:

thanks 

Edited by Dan_J
  • Like 1
46 minutes ago, jay-rod said:
Arrived safe and sound, soon to be installed :)
ATR45SAT Ball Bearing for reference :)Capture.JPG

Very cool, internal or external gate? What's the brass fitting on the left?

  • 2 weeks later...

I've had this small issue recently with my ATR43-SS2 (2013) where I occasionally find a drop of oil underneath the front housing. I have checked the water and oil lines and they are all fine and tight. I've also been conscious to wipe the housing clean each time in an effort to pinpoint where it's coming from.

I took the photo below just then, you can see a bit of oil collecting at the edge of the housing and right under one of the housing bolts. It also looks a little wet right around the bolt so I'm wondering if that's the cause? I chucked a 13mm socket in there and tightened it a touch (it turned easy enough) but didn't want to overdo it as I don't know the torque specs.

@hypergear Tao have you seen these turbos spring a leak there before? What's the torque specs on the housing bolts? Cheers

32201403301_8f8ede1f1a_b.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey keep the ideas coming, I'm always keen on projects! But, problem fixed!  I got a cheapie ozito scope from Bunnings and had a good look in and around the bearing and sensor hole. I couldn't see a smoking gun but the bearing looked a bit strange, especially when comparing with a new one. I thought the cover had come off the bearing magnets.  Sorry for pics of a screen, I didn't have an SD card.     Good thing I had the old one to inspect. So, given I'm like a pit crew with wheel bearings and luckily I had a spare bearing because I f**ked up my parts order, I decided to just smash it out. Got the old one out in about an hour. So much easier when the parts haven't had a chance to rust together yet. 😂 And, well, found the problem.    In the second pic at about the 8 o'clock position, you'll see what I think is the tip of the old sensor.  The new sensor has definitely been rubbing but it's all intact, just a little shiny so I'm hoping it's fine.  The car brakes perfectly now and no errors.  I think the job took about 2.5h in the end. 👍🏻 I really appreciate the help in here as usual. Thanks guys.
    • I was only looking because I saw some drops on the ground but it wasn't alot. Recently had it serviced will ask the mech to confirm. Find it strange that it looks standard though, can see in another photo of a random box 
    • So...not sure if you know if that has always been there or why you went looking. It could be old damage from a clutch explosion, or even just the gearbox got dropped somewhere along the line. Basically, you should seal it up to stop oil and dust getting into the bellhousing, but it doesn't matter too much and is not structural. I'd suggest something like a glob of JB Weld. BTW what gearbox oil are you running, I would guess the breather has been spewing it everywhere.
    • Hey Duncan thanks for your reply. Sorry mate I know the photos are shit.  Took another photo for reference. Seems the casing does have a hole in it looking on the net, fluid seeping out. Added a photo   
    • Very hard to make out what you mean, is it the squarish hole with redline shockproof (probably) under it? Is that pic from on top of the engine with the firewall to the left of pic and engine to the right? Either way, spray the area liberally with degreaser and try again, maybe circle the part you are worried about
×
×
  • Create New...