R32 Gts+t Daily/street

[CRSKmD]

On 10/15/2017 at 3:45 PM, iruvyouskyrine said:

That is very strange that the nipple clean snapped off! Sucks to see you take a hit with the car but saying f**k it and getting back out there is the best attitude to have! Were you happy with your driving?

 

yeah never seen that happen. and not get me started on trying (and failing )to remove it.

Pretty rusty with the drift stuff but i had a good time and improved throughout the night. I been doing more grip days recently

[CRSKmD]

Next morning I went out to assess the damage. The hit had managed to push the rear edge of the 1/4 in and crease it right back to the fuel cap area.

 

I spent the next few days getting quotes to have it repaired. I finally settled on a one and below are the results.

 

Repair work 10/10. mostly metal fixed with minimal bog

Colour match..? well not perfect they did repaint the fuel flap for me after this picture was taken so it blend nicer. But as i found when i did the GTR front matching the colour of my car without a code was very difficult. The whole car needs a full respray anyway as it currently is 50 shades of blue.

 

 

Also at some point during drift prac i had ripped the exhaust hangers off the exhaust leaving two nice little holes.

 

Quickly patched up by Vulcan Fabrication

 

Edited October 16, 2017 by CRSKmD

[CRSKmD]

With the car fixed up i headed out to the Might Car Mods Nationals 2017 - Adelaide event out at Mallala.

Rainy start to the day

but it quickly cleared up. track wheels on and ready to go out

good mix of cars

Full session video from the day with high quality Raw Audio. Good fun day with all the cars out.

bonus few pictures of the daily.

Daihatsu baaaatttleeee

Daihatsu video. listen to that 3cyl go

 

[CRSKmD]

After fixing the car and sorting out the waste gate which involved getting a whole new lower section and completely tearing down the gate. I was only making ~16psi peak with a very slow build with it only reaching 16psi at 6500rpm with the current boost controller settings. my theory is that the diaphragm was never sealing correctly as boost control was always touchy and the settings on the Profec had been rather low compared to what was expected.

I took it out to the freeway do do a few pulls and try and get the settings to give a better boost response curve and peak boost.

I got it pretty close but wanted it to be checked out on the dyno just to be sure. 

As it turned out the Leaky gate and possibly the T3 gasket (depending when it went) I replaced a few pages back hard some solid response and power gains.

The biggest difference is the old peak torque of 430nm is being hit and passed ~1250rpm sooner!

power is coming on about 300rpm sooner across the rev range with a higher peak.

boost is much snappier and on at 4500rpm exactly. which is still a touch laggier than my original hopes before i bought the turbo but a noticeable difference in the butt dyno.

Power/Torque

Boost

 

Better pictures of the newest dyno sheets

[CRSKmD]

Time to give the brakes some attention

bought some new fluid to do a full flush

and some HEL braided lines. These were actually for an R32 GTR but more or less fit the GTS-T. More later on this.

went to take the stock rubber and hardline to caliper off when this happened. It was already kinked from being stretched a bit far from more lock and re positioned calipers.

the nut on the caliper was completely rounded and i tried a few things to get it out including multigrips and an easy out. none of which worked. The solution was to heat it up with a big ol' soldering iron

the have another go at it with an easy out while also clamping the nut with some vice grips

braided line fitted up

.

now as mentioned earlier the GTR lines fit but not exactly. When fitting the front lines to the car the GTR kit came with P clips which obviously don't fit the normal locations or secure the lines at all.

to fix this i found some wiring grommets

these fit snuggley in the stock mounting location

with just enough room to slid the stock clips in (backwards) to further secure them.

it was then a simple case of slitting the grommets to get them over the lines and fitting it all up

Bled the brakes up and took it for a test drive and checked where the mounting solution held on. Which they did!

Edited November 2, 2017 by CRSKmD

[CRSKmD]

With rego running out i figured it was a good excuse to take it off the road and begin the RB25DET Neo swap. But before that happened i headed out and with the help of my girlfriend put together this video while it was still a 290kw RB20 powered thing.

Enjoy!

 

[CRSKmD]

well now the motor is out


and the big job of cleaning up this mess begins. Stay tuned 

[CRSKmD]

Removed most things from the engine bay and taped up anything that i didnt want to get wet. From here I started de-griming.
None of these pictures have had any paint. Just a damn good scrub.

I started by spraying with heavy duty de-greaser. Let sit for a few minutes and agitated with a paint brush then scrubbed the more stubbon bits with an old scotchbrite pad from the kitchen. Sprayed off with water. then wiped down with an old microfiber cloth. Repeated as needed

[Sinista32]

Looks like a heeoge difference in the photo's, top effort.

Good luck with the Neo conversion

[CRSKmD]

I attacked the rust then covered with some kill rust before hitting the whole bay with Primer

gave the whole thing a rub down and clean before laying down the first layer of base coat.

i practiced first on the Cam covers which accepted the black base nicely.

Moved onto the bay when this happened...

whole bay was cleaned with soap then rinsed off and wiped down with wax/grease remover and thoroughly dried before painting.

Unfortunately i managed to get a light coating over the whole bay and had just completed my first wet coat before it started to show.

Talking to a painter i knew. Apparently the factory bay paint is acrylic and can be a bit touchy with high solvent content acrylic paints. My base was 2:1 paint:thinners.

as i was set up and i the cam covers black had gone on fine i continued the process as i only had a short window to get all coats on for it to work properly

 

as for the Bay this mean going back to square 1 (or -1 as the case may be). The sizzled paint was not easy to get off and had eaten its way down a few layers. The whole process of taking back the paint set me back about 2 days. The black base was much harder to sand that the factory paint had been.

Etch primered and the reprimed with a paint that i trusted.

First layer of paint (base coat black)

Intercoat of Clear base mixed with a powder Pink/Purple pearl

pearl over black

2k Clear

some close ups

for my first time painting with pearl in a 3 layer job im pretty proud of what i managed to accomplish! the photos simply do not do the paint justice

Edited January 26, 2018 by CRSKmD

[Ben C34]

That looks awesome. Good work!

[iruvyouskyrine]

Yep that looks absolutely rad. More info on the paint used? Cheers

[CRSKmD]

18 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

That looks awesome. Good work!

Cheers mate!

16 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

Yep that looks absolutely rad. More info on the paint used? Cheers

the paint after primer is as follows:

1. base was just a plain black automotive acrylic 

2. clear base coat (intercoat) mixed with Purple-Pink Nightshade Candy pearl powder from Paint With Pearl

3. 2k Clear with fast activator 

the paint with pearl people have a whole lot of interesting additives like glow in the dark and thermal active paints that i wouldn't mind checking out at some point!

[CRSKmD]

I picked up some parts including a new 10cm turbine housing to give the little TD05H-18g a bit more room up the top, Gate timing belt and GMB water pump along with associated seals.

cam seals and front main seal in. The front main seal was a pain for some reason and when pushing it in the retaining spring would pop out. managed to get around this by cutting up an old rattlecan lid to made a guide tube.

unfortunately the water pump was incorrect. Even though i specified RB25DET neo R34 on ordering.

i got a WP898 which is for RB30, RB20 and early RB26 from what i have found.
Note the slotted vs single hole. some people have said they left out the top mounting bolt with no issues but im not about that. thankfully i contacted the company and they have already sent out the correct pump at no charge.

8cm vs 10cm turbine housings

10cm installed

also gave the compressor housing a scrub up while it was off

[jmknights93]

Looking good man ! Keep up with the great posts.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

wow.. looking le secks

[Jordy32]

Looks so good! Painting the rest of the car?

[CRSKmD]

22 hours ago, jmknights93 said:

Looking good man ! Keep up with the great posts.

cheers mate! i will continue to update as this progresses

17 hours ago, Jordy32 said:

Looks so good! Painting the rest of the car?

i was tempted to paint the car at the same time. but if it was being painted i might as well widebody and if.... yeah nah not gonna let this snowball anymore haha.

Motor, Loom, ECU and painted bay is enough for one hit

[CRSKmD]

Got the manifold back from ceramic coat. decided to do it right this time and piss off the heat wrap.

Had it done at Ceramic Coat Australia who do the coating for PaceMaker. no pictures of the process but they blast it with an aluminium medium bead blaster. Then the ceramic coat goes on follow by being baked.

that collector though

mock fitted up

 

[CRSKmD]

Got the correct water pump in. I was shocked from the customer service level of the online store

They even sent me the correct one straight away before asking me to send back the wrong one and they said they will refund the return shipping.

new water pump, idlers and timing belt fitted. yes it was all TDC when put on i had just cranked it over a few time to get the correct tension as per the service manual.

Timing cover that came with the car was pretty yeah nah

so picked up a nice fresh one

i also sanded back the lettering on the RB20 coilpack cover