Dose Pipe Sutututu

Twin Scroll, Twin gates, modern turbo, working VCT

Hey All, As you know, this is one mighty powerful ECU capable of running full flex, anti-lag, launch control, traction control, etc. Also has engine protection features, MAP predict for transient throttle - extremely powerful ECU. I have used it in my car and have tuned other cars running this very ECU. As my needs have changed, I am upgrading to an ECU that supports more features so this bad boy is up for sale, comes with: ECU itself Internal connector & harness (with quick release connectors for flex input, additional wheel speed sensor input, etc) USB port has been repaired and loads of glue has been applied on it (common issue with these ECUs) Price: $800 Location: Canley Vale, NSW Will remove from car after it has been demonstrated working, and will give you a bunch of other tunes too.

Lovely fab work :) Boost doesn't kill motors, just keep the timing pretty sedate near peak torque and you could run close to 2 bar without it going bang on a NEO. FWIW, I did 1.8bar into a non-NEO motor and abused it on the track for ages till it lunched itself, however it had barely any timing in it in the mid range. Lastly, I would ditch the Z32 and run a HPX N1 card AFM as it doesn't suffer from reversion like the Z32 does.

Perhaps on SR20s not RB25s Different design

Regardless of NEO or non-NEO the RPM where it is enabled or disabled is 100% configurable if you're not using a PowerFC or Stock ECU. The window where it stays on should be tuned till when torque starts to decay, of course this is all dependant on what parts have been bolted to the motor. Generally for me, I will do one run with it turned off and one run with it turned on past max torque ie close to red line and overlay the derived torque graph. The intersection point is optimally where it is turned off. Also once off, the motor will happily take more timing

MK7, they're fast man! Going to upgrade the missus car to that when we get back from our trip! Will probably take the daily to the track more than the boat LOL

haha nice plug, just saw the site go live and all over social too

perhaps make a splitter Bill, that would help so there's no need to reduce the ARB hardness

hahaha damn, I've seriously done something wrong then Can't even get under 1m8s at Wakefield Park where a Golf R can do the same time... new setup should be ready for July battles, I hope that changes my mind. Try softening up your front ARB to reduce understeer?

LOL your car has like 15~20k worth of mods!

Fixed up my cold start because it was bothering me, although the ECU will be upgraded and the tune will pretty much useless going to a different brand - but yeah, cold autumn morning and it fires first go now Yes my tacho is fuuarked.

If you ran it on the dyno with smaller street tyres it will read higher

I would go GTX3576R and a nice 1.xx rear divided housing. Twins are not responsive, nor are they great for transient response. You need a good twin scroll setup, from what you may have there - it "could" be a dinosaur single scroll setup with a turbo from the 1990s.

Decided not to upgrade my car to something sensible because I came up with a great idea to get the missus a Golf R as a daily So... R33 might get more mods before it even sees the dyno (if ever) lol

Plazmaman has released a billet, CNC machined runner intake manifold and plenum kit. I might just get it for the sake of it, bring on no power gains and more lag! Lol

You'll need collars with Subaru if I remember correctly, just get S15 450cc ones. Easier as people sell them for about 150$ for a set of 4x.

Check your base timing too

DW side feeds are decapped and drilled JECS injectors. Back in the days they used to buy used 370cc JECS injectors to remanufacture into their version of 740/850/1000 etc. Five-O are exactly the same, if you ever get a set look at them using a magnifying glass and you'll see marks similar of a bench grinder or belt sander. Also, side feeds don't have stainless internals so when you start introducing fuel such as E85 then generally seize up after much use if you don't use any ethanol addictive or run normal gasoline through them. I've tuned several cars with those DW and Five-O water canons, generally they're ok when new but after 1 or 2 years the flow rates between the injectors start to vary dramatically. Only side feeds I would use are stock ones or Nismo 740cc. Avoid DW or Five-O if you don't feel like rebuilding your motor.

Ditch the MAF and go to a MAFless setup, too many issues with modified cars and MAFs, yes they're "better" at calculating airflow, etc. but it's not worth the headache. MAP sensor, IAT is pretty much all you need, if you're a little bit more cluey then barometer sensor (convert the onboard MAP sensor to it and run an external 4 bar) is good too, but generally most street cars/weekend circuit cars are at sea level.

Even with twins, you'll get fisted for height, noise, emissions, tint, aftermarket suspension bits, blah blah blah.. Just go single, quiet exhaust, make everything black and never worry about 1 out of 2 of your turbos blowing seals or exploding. Also you'll have better heat management going single.

With the cost of brand new injectors these days, it's silly to buy a set of 6x used 450cc S15 injectors (they're 480cc at 3.5bar, at 3bar they're 450cc) and get them cleaned, serviced with new seals, pintle caps etc. Just get a cheap $90 top feed rail, and get yourself 6x new top feed 1/2 height injectors (approx 45mm o-ring to o-ring).

Does the CAS on this motor have a plastic cover and the old motor has a CAS with a metal cover with a Mitsubishi logo on it? (Or other way around) If so, reverse all the pins on the CAS connector so 1 2 3 4 becomes 4 3 2 1.

looks like it might dose good once you put in heaps of boost

Find a motor from an auto 4x door or an auto Stagea (that's what I did), but because I'm an idiot I decided to rebuild a perfectly good motor Lolololol. You should be able to pick one up for under $1500, also I suggest a new head gasket, ARP studs and your vanilla 100k service on it.

could get a stant cap