Dose Pipe Sutututu

LOL your car has like 15~20k worth of mods!

Fixed up my cold start because it was bothering me, although the ECU will be upgraded and the tune will pretty much useless going to a different brand - but yeah, cold autumn morning and it fires first go now Yes my tacho is fuuarked.

If you ran it on the dyno with smaller street tyres it will read higher

I would go GTX3576R and a nice 1.xx rear divided housing. Twins are not responsive, nor are they great for transient response. You need a good twin scroll setup, from what you may have there - it "could" be a dinosaur single scroll setup with a turbo from the 1990s.

Decided not to upgrade my car to something sensible because I came up with a great idea to get the missus a Golf R as a daily So... R33 might get more mods before it even sees the dyno (if ever) lol

Plazmaman has released a billet, CNC machined runner intake manifold and plenum kit. I might just get it for the sake of it, bring on no power gains and more lag! Lol

You'll need collars with Subaru if I remember correctly, just get S15 450cc ones. Easier as people sell them for about 150$ for a set of 4x.

Check your base timing too

DW side feeds are decapped and drilled JECS injectors. Back in the days they used to buy used 370cc JECS injectors to remanufacture into their version of 740/850/1000 etc. Five-O are exactly the same, if you ever get a set look at them using a magnifying glass and you'll see marks similar of a bench grinder or belt sander. Also, side feeds don't have stainless internals so when you start introducing fuel such as E85 then generally seize up after much use if you don't use any ethanol addictive or run normal gasoline through them. I've tuned several cars with those DW and Five-O water canons, generally they're ok when new but after 1 or 2 years the flow rates between the injectors start to vary dramatically. Only side feeds I would use are stock ones or Nismo 740cc. Avoid DW or Five-O if you don't feel like rebuilding your motor.

Ditch the MAF and go to a MAFless setup, too many issues with modified cars and MAFs, yes they're "better" at calculating airflow, etc. but it's not worth the headache. MAP sensor, IAT is pretty much all you need, if you're a little bit more cluey then barometer sensor (convert the onboard MAP sensor to it and run an external 4 bar) is good too, but generally most street cars/weekend circuit cars are at sea level.

Even with twins, you'll get fisted for height, noise, emissions, tint, aftermarket suspension bits, blah blah blah.. Just go single, quiet exhaust, make everything black and never worry about 1 out of 2 of your turbos blowing seals or exploding. Also you'll have better heat management going single.

With the cost of brand new injectors these days, it's silly to buy a set of 6x used 450cc S15 injectors (they're 480cc at 3.5bar, at 3bar they're 450cc) and get them cleaned, serviced with new seals, pintle caps etc. Just get a cheap $90 top feed rail, and get yourself 6x new top feed 1/2 height injectors (approx 45mm o-ring to o-ring).

Does the CAS on this motor have a plastic cover and the old motor has a CAS with a metal cover with a Mitsubishi logo on it? (Or other way around) If so, reverse all the pins on the CAS connector so 1 2 3 4 becomes 4 3 2 1.

looks like it might dose good once you put in heaps of boost

Find a motor from an auto 4x door or an auto Stagea (that's what I did), but because I'm an idiot I decided to rebuild a perfectly good motor Lolololol. You should be able to pick one up for under $1500, also I suggest a new head gasket, ARP studs and your vanilla 100k service on it.

could get a stant cap

Yeah throw that Nismo cap in the bin. Yeah raising the boiling point of your cooling system by using a higher pressure radiator cap is not advised, as you'll end up in a big mess. Close to OEM pressure is the best, you don't want that 20+ year old heater core or water lines going bang, if your water is boiling then there are other issues. No point putting on a stronger cap.

Typical Skyline ownership, when my motor exploded I was going to strap and strip the car. Somehow, a few cans later a few drunken discussions with people I ended up spending triple the car's worth and now have a built motor and a barely working car LOL.

make sure you get a new radiator cap, the Nismo caps will leak.. I recall I needed a Tridon CB16110 or so, can't recall.. just double check yourself. I know PWR recommend Stanton caps

okay fine.... let's be sensible. I will sell you my built RB25DET NEO setup (built motor, turbo setup, gearbox, diff, ECU, loom) for $15k Install that, put E85 instant 400kW+ Get bored, upgrade to a GTX3582R Gen 2 make ~500kW Deal?

sell it, buy Golf R, exhaust, intake, flash chop mild GT-Rs at the lights

Yeah PWR aren't known for their good welds, but their radiators beast (well the cores are). My PWR radiator welds look pretty shit too, when you compare it to anything that comes out of Plazmaman or Hypertune.

Should Google Koyo Radiator leaking, there was a period where their QA slipped away and every so often a core would leak after a few months. I'm assuming it's back to normal again now.

I see many WTAC and circuit cars all running either Plazmaman or Hypertune or PWR. Haven't seen many with Nismo or GReddy cores, I would base my decisions on that to be honest.

Stock motor, R33 GTS-t S2 with Sunroof record?