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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    I believe he is talking about early and late R34s, which are not as different as S1 and S2 R33s. I'm pretty sure he's not talking about cross pollinating R33 stuff onto a Neo.
  2. GTSBoy
    I can't imagine why anyone would waste the effort required to poor an S14 diff (the stock one) into a Skyline. Does the invoice describe the diff in any other terms? If it is an aftermarket centre that was intended for an S14, but got put in to the R34 CW&P and housing, then that's a whole 'nother thing.
  3. GTSBoy
    No you don't. As in, you don't need to replace them. Piss of the HICAS altogether. Eliminator kits come with something to go back in where those bushes come out of (with a lot of violence!)
  4. GTSBoy
    Neither S14s nor R34s have mechanical LSDs with "teeth*". They are viscous** and they are poo anyway (when new) and only get worse as they get older. They are not "fixable", as no-one would bother going to the effort to repair a viscous centre. The ratio on an S14 diff is also very tall, so your speedo should be reading very low cf. your actual speed. All in all, it's enough to wonder if it is true that you have an S14 diff in there. Do some reading on here for the millions of recommendations on what to do for diffs in these cars. Thousands and thousands of threads. * Lots of teeth actually - but they are not what makes it "slip" or not slip. Broken teeth = insta-death for most diffs. ** Unless a rare R34 with a helical diff.
  5. GTSBoy
    Putting a stainless sleeve into a master along with a new seal kit takes a couple of hours at a brake specialist.
  6. GTSBoy
    This. It will be this.
  7. GTSBoy
    Do you still want to be able to drive it?
  8. GTSBoy
    There's a whole thread stickied at the top of this very forum.
  9. GTSBoy
    Idle control valve dirty/borked is most likely cause of rough idle behaviour as you decelerate.
  10. GTSBoy
    Ask them. I'd suggest they'd do it in a heartbeat.
  11. GTSBoy
    While that is true....when it comes to asbestos, you might be surprised where it was still turning up. Not that I know one way or the other about R34s, but I understand some other Jap cars from that era still had it.
  12. GTSBoy
    If they'd just put a kit together for Neo I'd be all over it like a fat kid on a smorgasboard.
  13. GTSBoy
    Small correction. A lot of people also call the commutator that passes wiring into and out of the steering wheel (ie, horn buttons, cruise control, stereo buttons) the clockspring. It is quite possible that this is common to steering angle sensors on newer cars. On R32 at least, the only wire coming into the steering wheel is for the horn. You can see that connector on the lower left of the photo above. The drive pin for engaging the steering wheel is opposite. I guess that makes the SAS the "clockspring" on this too.
  14. GTSBoy
    Yup. Same same. Not same same between 32/33 of course. Just any given RWD/AWD pair.
  15. GTSBoy
    Yuh, custom cut gears are always cheap.
  16. GTSBoy
    No, if I had to guess, I'd say the exact opposite. The clockspring will be deeper down. The SAS would be right at the top, because there is a pin off the back of the steering wheel hub that drives it. At least, that's how it is on the R32. I've never pulled the wheel off an R33. In fact, it doesn't matter, because I only had a car with HICAS on it for a very short time before I taught myself how to take off and nuke it (HICAS) from orbit. It's the only way to be sure that it won't f**k up your life. This is what the top of an R32 steering column looks like. SAS is what you're seeing.
  17. GTSBoy
    Nope. Clock spring is the mechanism for making the indicators latch and release. Steering angle sensor is a separate thing. They can die. The little pin from the steering wheel that engages the sensor and drives it around can possibly break too, or if some hamfisted bumblef**k has had the wheel off and not put it back on correctly, then simply not engaged. It needs to read zero angle while the car is driving straight or it will eventually go into fault, because the car literally cannot hold a set steering angle while >5km/h for more than a few seconds. The sensor is expected to continually change value, or fault out.
  18. GTSBoy
    You planning on a hinged flappy lid for the fuel opening?
  19. GTSBoy
    Yuh. A winter tyre here is a summer tyre in Canadia.
  20. GTSBoy
    Tell us. Why did it not go above 26 psi? Pinging? Turbo won't flow any more? But to go back to your sort of question.....yes, 26 psi is quite a lot of boost on plain dinosaur jizz.
  21. GTSBoy
    What? 98bp, as in BP Ultimate 98 octane? Who's surprised? Seems reasonable to me. Want more, need more octane, no?
  22. GTSBoy
    More than likely some numpty has f**ked with the wiring running from the front of the car back to the CC module. Get the wiring diagram out and check for continuity.
  23. GTSBoy
    That's the resonator, or a flexible joint? Either way.....f**k!
  24. GTSBoy
    It's missing. Likely it is one of the coils dying when it gets hot enough. Take you 30 minutes to fix it.
  25. GTSBoy
    Actually, adjustable arms are not trivial. It's easy to set the camber arm to get the camber you desire. It is much harder to set the traction arm length to minimise bump steer. Almost no-one ever does it, and almost all installations are probably worse than the stock arms because of it. It's a circular process. Set the camber arm length to get camber right. This requires that you take a stab at changing the traction arm length also. Then you have to take it off the wheel aligner (probably), jack it up off the ground, set up your bump steer gauge, fiddle with the traction arm length until you have minimal bump steer, then put it back on the wheel aligner and check and correct the camber, then probably back to the bump steer gauge to make sure that you haven't spoiled it. Rinse and repeat until no changes are required. Might take one back and forth, or might take 6. If you take it to a wheel aligner to do the whole process, it would want to be an expert at setting up this stuff, not your local Bob Jane, etc. And it will cost a lot more for the labour/service than for the arms.
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