Duncan
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Everything posted by Duncan
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Pretty much any larger radiator will require the shroud to be trimmed away to clear it, no point replacing the shroud or fan as it will just happen again....
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Oh FFS Kel just ruined the ending of the Brock movie for me
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sadly it seems pay tv has removed the opportunity for back to back races this year......
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Personally, I only know I've never had trouble with attessa failing or changing, even during a long (1hr) race. I guess it doesn't work very hard (obviously the fluid *inside* the case is a different story, but they are separate)
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take off the door card (a few screws and clips, including screws inside the door handle) and then pull it upwards. then you need to remove the actuator arms at the lock (they hold on with plastic clips). careful not to break them, they can be brittle. then a couple of 10mm nuts to undo the door handle. once the handle is out you'll see the door lock is held in by a spring, easy to pull out then they cylinder will slide through. (that's for r32 BTW, your profile doesn't say what you drive)
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manual says 1.8l
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they never fail to let us down....why show talking instead of the 86 trophy race? at least they put the muscle cars on anyway...tv check. couch check. munchies check. beer check. ready for bathurst day!
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did you hardwire your seat to the car? strange choice......just head to jaycar or car parts place and buy a plug and socket with the right number of wires. do you know the airbag is OK in the seat you bought? if you dont want to use it, a resistor between the 2 wires is the way to go. There are a couple of threads about potential resister sizes, each car is different. If you can't work it out you can buy a variable resistor to find the right size, or I have one you can use if you are in Sydney (your profile doesn't say) BTW, seats look great
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if you are keen to fully empty it, instead of using the bleed nipple pull the large line (of the pair) off the hard line under the car above the subframe (just near the fuel filler)
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I know it's not great news, and no you are not lost, they are pretty much your choices. I'd either buy a different block (probably cheapest option) or buy a new cradle if that's an option (I assume its aftermarket and a different style). If you choose the latter you need to get the block tunnel bored which I don't really like in these engines because it moves the crank relative to the oil pump
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you totally delivered on that
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lol pics or it didn't happen
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Yeah I take it that it does a better job too, even if the radical is nice and light....
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Hmm I just bought a new tow car myself.....after all this time I still get impatient waiting for shipping and compliance....
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I'm cheering for the girls in the Nismo car! Yes, Rick Kelly and Russell Ingall
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giddy up, it the bathurst thread.
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And most often the earth strap from the attessa pump above the diff is missing or broken. Could also be the relay (in the boot near the lock). Actual wiring or motor failure is least likely
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voila!
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I'd give Justin at CGR Performance a bell, he does a lot of custom wiring and race car work. May not be cheap but it will be done right....
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careful what you wish for I can confirm the mods are keeping a close eye on this thread but haven't seen anything that concerned us in the last day or 3
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absolutely, the block and cradle are a pair. Even when they come together from the the same engine they should still be measured and potentially machined to make sure the main bearing clearances are correct.
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Fuse #2 (Electronic parts) appears to control only the automatic spoiler and it's computer and switches Fuse #3 (Transmission control) looks after the auto trans gear selector and computer If neither of these are working, and should be, then put a fuse in.....otherwise everything is fine They use the same fuse box for all 32s with lots of different engines, transmissions, features
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Yep definitely needs machining to match the block
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Or possibly also simply boiled brake fluid (the better the fluid the more water it absorbs so the more often it needs bleeding). I have had a split line to the brake booster (in an Emo 9) and the pedal was rock solid but did pretty much nothing when I stomped it, it's quite a distinctive feeling and not what you are describing. Oh and for fun it happened to me at 250 at bathurst in the chase....Modern braking systems are not designed to work without the booster so they don't have much pedal leverage on their own.
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Duncan's Race Car - The Most Overdue Build Thread On Sau
Duncan replied to Duncan's topic in Motorsport Builds
OK, the fuel return lines are all complete and in place including the fittings to the hard line to the front of the car, the cooler and the ethanol sensor all back to the surge tank then overflowing back to the main tank Also got the pressure side mostly done, main line to the front with hard line fittings is in place, with small/secondary fuel filter and pressure sender back to the new 044 pump and sure tank. Then put the subframe back in because everything is (hopefully) finished under there. And the main fuel filter is mounted on the HICAS rack so the subframe needed to be back in to finish off. So just need angle fittings for either end of the main filter, run the line from the min tank and to the surge tank and the rear fuel system is done. At the front I've just switched to dash fittings but I'll finish that off including the t piece on the return for the fuel sampler fitting once the engine is back in.
