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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. "if" you do go with the Nismo 740s, I still recommend changing the OEM fuel regulator, especially with bigger pumps. Yes all of SAU and others will say "the OEM FPR will work and flow xyz blah blah blah" but when you log the fuel pressure data you'll understand what I mean. You get these nasy spikes between transient events. If you do go down the path of Nismo 740s with an aftermarket FPR, steer clear from the SARD bullshit - they're horrendous, get at the very least a FPR800 or FPR1200 Turbosmart unit.
  2. For the price you pay, a little more gets you stainless top feeds - also you'll find the Nismo 740s don't really like low pulsewidths but if you're running E85 then you won't really get that problem as you need generally close to 40% more fuel. Also modern top feeds, you can push more fuel pressure without sacrificing spray pattern and operation at lower PWs. A S15 I tuned recently has a set of Bosch Seadoo injectors that I cranked up to 4bar base pressure, and at full tilt gets about close to 6bar worth of fuel pressure. Car idles better than stock Here's a rather shitty guide I wrote a while back going top feeds: www.trak-life.com/diy-converting-top-feed-injectors-r33-gts-t-skyline-rb25det/
  3. "Things aren't getting hot enough" is that what your mechanic really said? I think you should look a little further to the intake side of the motor and determine if some donkey has fitted larger injectors to a stock ECU or scaled your injectors incorrectly with your aftermarket ECU. If your car is completely stock then i suggest you look a bit deeper and diagnose if your AFM and narrowband O2 is cooked, if so your short term and long term fuel trims would be contributing to your plugs fouling. Nothing to do with things aren't getting hot enough, it's not a bbq.
  4. and I can send you a bunch of tunes I've created in the past (if going adaptronic) - however still get a tuner to check for AFRs/knock on a dyno
  5. Of course, Nistune is light years ahead of a PowerFC. If you decide to get a Nistune, I suggest finding a compatible RB20DET ECU and get the board installed. Don't use a Z32 ECU, I've had so many problems with them. Nistune has full flex, launch control. boost control, basic engine protection - things a PowerFC does not have.
  6. Adaptronic will suit your requirements. If budget permits a Link or a Haltech is a step up. Nistune you need a license to be able to make changes, however generally customers I've tuned you can get the car in an "ok" state when you upgrade the AFM and also the injectors at the same time. Might idle about 11~12 AFR and drive a bit shit but it's enough to get to the dyno.
  7. I think what Pete wants is E63 AMG Performance in the shape of a R34 GT-R. Here's one with just a reflash.
  8. Ti sensors, also if you want them to last longer remote mount them.
  9. RB26 has so much torque, like -180nm at 2000rpm than a Golf R
  10. the graph plot should be some what an exponential decay
  11. Your crank fueling vs temperature is out. Bring it back to your tuner or if you have Nistune fix it yourself or download it and send it to me and I'll fix it for you.
  12. It won't sell, I tried - so I turned up the wick, thrashed the living daylights out of it on the track and the motor exploded LOL
  13. for $10k, it's not that bad - spend a few here and there and rip skids.
  14. FWIW (might not even be on-topic) but I also decided to NOT go the spline drive route, after reading countless forums, blog posts, watching fat Jim talk about oil pumps and shit it seems the general consensus is that the spline drive needs the motor to have perfect tolerances, etc. Most of the time when we build motors, we all end up line boring the block, this "generally" shifts the crank position by a bee's dick and because your oil pumps cannot be shifted that direction by whatever you end up unevenly driving the spline drive. With my new motor for the shitbox, I just re-used the OEM NEO oil pump (which I believe it similar as a N1) and used the Spool billet gears. Crank was machined down, and the extended collar fitted with 2x grub screws. I also run a host of sensors and can log oil pressure vs. engine speed vs. oil temp and water temp for anyone interested. It's on a Haltech Elite with no additional boxes (no need to insert Haltech box jokes). Happy to post whatever data people want
  15. Now that conversion would be fun, put a dirty cam on it. Brap Brap Brap Brap lol
  16. http://www.pureautomotiveperformance.com/product/pure-2jz-swap-toyota-86-plug-play-package-motec-m130-stand-alone-obsidian-motorsports-group/ + motor, box, fab work Would be great fun
  17. Celebratory skid? It's standard SAU practice
  18. I would refrain from spreading misleading facts. It requires 95RON+ to suppress knock not because it needs "clean" fuel, nothing about it won't burn as clean and things get dirty over time. You might lose 10~30kW because you've go past MBT and/or in knock territory.
  19. Sinco twin scroll single gate manifold, GTX3071R Gen 2, 45mm external gate, 1250cc Bosch injectors, Walbro 460L, E85, ARP headstuds, decent blue or black coloured coilpacks (steer clear of any other coloured ones), decent clutch, ECU of some sort and heaps of boost.
  20. Harros, Since I am thinking of keeping 'Le Siet Bok' a bit longer, I thought I might as well clean up the interior a bit and tidy it up - especially ripping out all the gauges, EBC, etc. I am after the following: R33 S2 trim, where the driver's knee goes without broken clips R33 S2 steering column top & bottom trim R33 S2 skirts pref. in Silver R33 S2 rear pods pref. in Silver R33 S2 front s2 pref. in Silver R33 S2 front grill pref. in Silver R33 S2 dash trim/radio trim (if really, no massive scratches or drill marks or glue marks) R33 S2 driver's door trim (only in good condition, no dents on grill no cuts/grazes) I'm located in Cabramatta, NSW 2166 and happy to drive up to 1 hour to pick up the parts. Since I'm expecting decent quality, I'm not after cheap and roughed up goods - however will be selling my roughed up goods soon LOL Cheers, Johnny
  21. Just use a multimeter to work out the polarity
  22. ECU might think it's whatever you saw on the ECUtalk, but is it synchronised with the motor?
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