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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. 2JZ, then a GTX3582 and 450kW daily stock motor
  2. ^solid response and couldn't agree more, man how did you squeeze in toilet breaks and deal with hydration? haha.. I did 3 cars in a day once too when I hired Mark's dyno at MRC. Nearly collapsed from heat stroke and dehydration.
  3. Maybe was made for Australian roads lol... to offset the insane curvature of the surface haha
  4. either buy a compatible IAT sensor and weld it on the cold side of your IC (never install it into your plenum like the OEM 32/33 GTR as it heat soaks) and run it back to your ECU or just a basic gauge on eBay with an open sensor (probably wrong term used) ie fast sensor not the solid ones that react slow similar to your oil/water sensor
  5. Would have blown up quicker if I went to car park meets, and Krispy Kreme cruises. Definitely would have blown up years ago if I went to a JDMST End of Year Meet lol
  6. wow... mine has been 3 months and it feels like ages - car is covered in bird shit and dust too (if that adds any bonus points).. also accidentally scrapped the side of the car with the engine stand LOL
  7. Get a good intercooler, many skimp on this and wonder why they hit bottle necks. If budget is a concern, look at the HDi GT2 FMIC Kits for Skylines. Decent yet budget friendly, although don't expect Plazmaman performance or quality.
  8. No, because they have more variables to combat such as emissions, noise, heat, longevity, baro, air density, air temperature, gearing, list goes on. Also they go into every single cell and tune it, RPM vs. Load, then repeat for different conditions and the motor is attached directly to a dyno in a controlled test environment. Tuners of modified cars are merely 10% of what those Engineers are. Don't be fooled by what shops will say/do... if they were to "tune" your car like a proper car manufacturer it would cost in the 10s of thousands -> 100s of thousands.
  9. get a Nistune, less money plenty of functions. I have a tuner license too and can get you the boards cheaper. Since you're a DIY kind of guy it can be fun soldering.
  10. Noone would ever spend 6 hours of a 8 hour working day doing a cruise tune. You can do the entire off boost area in about 2 hours loading up all pointed and all rpm points within reason. Then another 1 to 2 hours doing power runs provided there are no changes need to cam timing etc. If your tuner is saying he or she spent 3 entire days tuning then I call bullshit. I can understand 2 full entire days if that involved parameter settings, scaling of all tables, setting up all inputs and outputs, scaling sensors, setting up the duty cycle vs rpm vs load vs ethanol concentration. I suggest you secretly install a dash cam in your car and prove me wrong, because I tune cars and I consider myself slow and take my time and even so I would never spend 3 entire days. These aren't F1 high strung high comp motors and even so, 90% of tuning shops don't even have the appropriate data acquisition tools/sensors
  11. Need Plazmaman kit - I know someone who gets great deals *wink wink*
  12. wow, a S2 R34 GT-t!!!! #hasahelicaldiffforskids
  13. Twin GT-RS turbos #twinsforresponse Then anti lag plus nitrous to get them on before 4k rpm. Get a HyperGear high flowed turbo, will exceed your power goals.
  14. wow you destroyed yours well lol.. here's mine in comparison, but mine shot bits of engine and took out the turbo too lolol
  15. What are your intake temps? if you're hitting over 60, time for a new FMIC. You'll be surprised at the power gain to be had with decent IATs.
  16. He will race one day (when he grows some balls) haha... However you'll find on E85 fuel temperature isn't so crucial
  17. diesel won't ignite like petrol as the flash point is near 90 degrees and also the flame speed is pretty slow so usually in accidents it won't ignite and/or go bang like petrol once it vapourises
  18. ahh you see, if you pull timing you'll get boost even sooner with the expense of not reaching MBT for that RPM at that Load point..
  19. What I was recommending is how to preserve the bottom end by limiting torque, so once you past peak torque you can go nuts with the boost and or timing to make the numbers. This is a technique good EVO tuners use to stop the pencil conrods snapping with stock EVOs making 300kW+
  20. Do it, just don't put too much timing towards and at peak torque. I would even take timing in the middle and ramp it once torque decays.
  21. It's not just about how much power a cooler allows a motor to make, it's more so how efficiently the cooler can cool down the charged air and also how much of it can flow through the core. Yes a China dim sim sui mai special may flow nearly identical to say a Plazmaman cooler however would definitely cool way less if you measure the IAT post cooler. For each run or pass you'll notice the intake temps will climb however first pass everything seems normal and this is where you'll hear people say bs like "I made 500kw on the stock cooler" then I day sure, let's increase the overall ramp duration on the dyno so something like 11km/h per sec so it's a nice and long run. I highly doubt the numbers would be identical at that point. So yeah, long story short get a good cooler.
  22. I know the topic is about fuel cooler placement however check out oem coolers, they have good mounting points and have shielding.
  23. I guess so, as a boat anchor (small boats) or a door stop, could also use it for bicep curls
  24. also what potato still runs HICAS on a fairly worked car? (referring to the car with the fuel cooler mounted under the spare)
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