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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. your options for response: VCam Single TS Advance intake cam
  2. Then putting in longer duration cams won't do what you're after. Advance your intake cam further for more response... or single TS conversion.
  3. tune issues man I recently tuned a SR20 making 350kW and it has more response than most RBs lol
  4. Are there enough earth straps from the motor to chassis and also where your battery is, is the earth point nice and solid to the chassis?
  5. Forgot to mention has Vifa front splits, Precision rear kevlar rear coaxials, stinger cabling, 1x slim Cadence sub, 1x 4ch Kenwood Amp, 1x Cadence Monoblock and a Pioneer 6xxx head unit. All this contributed to the 1m9s at Wakefield Park - similar to Peter Brock's Polariser.
  6. I can supply Nistune boards cheaper than RRP.
  7. your Haltech settings aren't ideal anyway If you want to test, I suggest this.. set the TPS to 5%, operating temp from 50c, set point at 1000rpm on both vac and boost then hold the revs about 2k and get someone to pull off the plug see if there's a change on engine note.
  8. also minimum TPS of 10% just to be safe
  9. set both on points at 1200rpm and max load at 250kpa or 300kpa
  10. Can be done with motor held up by gearbox and gearbox on some form of stand as well as those on strut top engine stands (don't know what they're called) then drop the x member followed by the sump. Easier motor out lol
  11. refund it.. useless ECU Get a proper ECU or get your stock one modified to accept a Nistune board. I can get it done cheaper than RRP or supply you the board to solder yourself - however I suggest the soldering done by Nistune themselves as the can bench test the ECU prior shipping it back.
  12. Phil's S15 has 25psi going into it.. no issue what so ever.. I suspect boiling fluid and you're heating up your ABS unit. Bleed ABS unit easy, crack open the lines up top of the unit and bleed as you would bleed a set of calipers without a one-man bled tool, i.e. pedal down, crack line, close line, pump pedal, pedal down, crack line, close line.. ra ra ra.
  13. DIY it man, local cylinder shop here charged one of the trak-life cars $270 to lightly skim the head and install new valve springs.. we took off and supplied the head to them with valve seals, springs.
  14. your stock FPR regulates pressure negative to the body is fine
  15. Did you wrap brake lines near your turbo setup? Also worthwhile making a basic heat shield using ACL shield to cover the ABS unit. Sounds like cooked brake fluid.
  16. Even if it did, even if there was a flame (not possible) there's no way the fuel will ignite because the mixtures are too rich to ignite. This is why electrical connectors happily live exposed inside a fuel tank. Not to mention a fuel tank is nearly sealed so the chances of enough air getting in to enable the right condition for fuel ignition is nearly impossible. Btw. You don't need 2 pumps for the power you're aiming for. You don't even need a Walbro 460L.
  17. Walbro 450 he will then start a new thread about wiring melting and or blowing fuses. DW300 v2 uses less current, good for beginners.
  18. Shit forgot it's a R34, I keep thinking he has a R33 boat like most of us. Please ignore what I said previously, just stick to the ARP studs lol.
  19. lol... Anyone Optima did get a bad wrap about 10 years ago when all their batteries were made in Mexico.. LOL yes LOL Then they've changed their plant to elsewhere and their quality returned back to where they were before 10+ years ago..
  20. get a DW300 pump, earth off the power i.e. bypass the FPCM... call it a day. You're overthinking something so simple for your shit box. Yes all skylines are shit boxes, I said it lol
  21. because budget conscious track build and they're fine... ARP 2000 for big power and boost. Since the head is coming off, might as well do value stem seals and also basic performance valve springs... RB25DET is prone to valve float once it gets some heat into it.. sometimes noticeable on the dyno after many pulls usually only noticed on the track.
  22. I would go ARP non 2000 studs if the head is coming off. Good clamp is good for keeping thr head and block together. Never know, one day you might have the urge to push out 350kw+ lol
  23. stainless hose clamp horn relay a few terminals 8ga power wiring an 8ga fuse holder and no, those issues are from shit installs... I run mine till the light goes on before it starts missing/surging on the track
  24. did you know, your flex sensor actually read fuel temperature too? And if you have a Zeitronix kit there's an earth trigger that allows it to switch between ethanol % to fuel temperature? waos
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