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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. wallah you need: traction rods, extend them about 10mm - this will reduce the toe out ramp and camber ramp camber rods, run about -0.5 degree or even 0 - because drag car delete the entire HICAS rubbish, i.e. get a proper HICAS eliminator that deletes the ball joints for the hicas system get a proper mechanical diff, the VLSD is aids no matter how much is "locks" it's all smoke and mirrors subframe lock collars diff bushes Then alignment: Toe in about 2mm each side, Nissans naturally toe out on squat not too much camber don't lower the car too much you don't want the control arms pointing upwards I have about 370kW+ at the rears and I barely light up 2nd once the tyres are warm... albeit these are NT01, with the NT05 2nd gets a little silly.
  2. yeah because the motor is more efficient further to the right thus less boost is required.. however power = exhaust flow.
  3. much more, provided you don't choke up the hot side.
  4. My exact thoughts - pretty sure I said something similar before and someone had a sads.
  5. since there isn't much interest.. I will part the car EOM March 2017, after I drive it gentle around Wakefield Park.
  6. yeah that's about right I just torque them up to about 120nm and call it a day
  7. tune done by a potato by the sounds of it
  8. Here's another photo of the car never driven hard... it has never been driven in the rain or raced. (the track looks wet and it looks like a rainy day.. but it's the internet, anything is possible)
  9. you want to work out power, drag strip. x weight can going so y speed in z time and k distance (factor in some basic air drag) - that is much more accurate then working out how much power a motor makes based on air flow and fuel usage. You need to remember a motor is not 100% efficient, and x air/fuel does not equate to a direct 100% energy transfer to mechanical energy - there are losses such as heat due to inefficiencies.
  10. yes rough rule for approximating the size of injector you need.. but the OP wants to determine how much power his car is making based on injector DC.. that's obsurd.. just as obsurd as a moron on a Facebook page telling someone to install a resistor pack on their high impednace injectors because their car won't crank over.
  11. Drag strip, what you're doing is guessing at best. x amount of fuel injected does not equal y power... period!
  12. turn down the boost
  13. (feel free to ignore as this is just a guess)... perhaps the backlash isnt' adjusted properly, i.e. too tight and it's causing a fair amount of friction thus cooking up the fluid... I run the Nulon 80W140 LSD oil and it barely breathes much.. I do get some vapour like others have mentioned after a good day of punishing the shit box at Wakefield. Last track day, manged to do 84 laps
  14. get a RB20DET ECU, have it modified with the Nismo board and use the Green LED output to control the VCT. Are you in Australia? I can organise this to be done through Nistune at a lower cost than RRP.
  15. I got to meet Tim and the team at WTAC... awesome team effort, love it! Car doesnt' dose though LOL
  16. I have a mate with them, said it still squeals abit after all the copper grease has dried up or flaked off... initially it shuts up the pads squealing like a wh0re lol....
  17. adms15 always on point
  18. 24mm 24mm, wanted 27mm 24mm at the time using the SydneyKid methodology with super thick ARBs and shit soft spring rates. Guess that's good for street use, but track wise was aids.
  19. 10W60 Castrol Edge? I would use 15W50 Penrite Racing
  20. there's your problem
  21. factory pipe work.. could be leak somewhere.. Are you running any wanky BOV? or is everything stock except the turbo? Also it might be overboosting because the turbo has a larger actuator on it.. not ECU related.
  22. (unrelated response). I once was all over the suepr thick ARBs and all.... now wished I didn't bother upgrading them.. I have both my mine on the softest settings for track use.. the ARBs just made the car super duper twitchy and sketchy. Even MCA said to use stock. Because I'm stubborn and didn't listen I bought thick ones, and kept snapping the mounts that hold the links up front lol
  23. However I highly suggest you sell the twins and drop in a single, with a divided rear housing and a proper twin scroll manifold. Single = more low down, better response, better transient, better top end, less plumbing, better heat management.
  24. yeah doesn't mean shit... put in a new fuel pump, it's cheaper than a new motor.
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