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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. can't stop 300kW? I had stock 296mm R33 GTS-t brakes stop a car making 370kW on the track... I only upgraded to Brembo calipers because I wanted more stopping power for the track. Once again, user error and shit pads.
  2. UPDATE TIME CNUTS! So went back to Wakefield Park again yesterday and managed a 1m09.6s around the circuit. Only difference this time was a GT-R rear wing, set to 3/4 setting (nearly max angle) and only fekkk the rear end grip changed dramatically! No more dori dori across the track like a mad man. Everything else remain the same.
  3. Round 3, Fight! Lap time: 1m09.06 Timing method: Q-Starz Modifications Engine: Unopened RB25DET with a Hypergear SS2 CBB Version running 1.5bar on E85 Power: ~340kW (at 1.7bar she makes 372kW but that's asking for a grenading motor recipe) Suspension: MCA X-Race 10kg(f) and 7kg® + 24mm F&R Whiteline anti-roll Bars Tyres: 255/40/17 Nitto NT01 all round Brakes: Brembo up front with Intima Type-D Pads, Stock Rears with Intima SR Pads Body weight: 1500 kg? Only difference this time was a GT-R wing with the blade set at the 3rd setting. Surprisingly made a massive difference to rear end grip!
  4. User error. No way you're even going past the GT-t braking capabilities on the street. Many people use the same setup on their track cars and they seem to stop so there's no way you can possibly exceed their capabilities on the street. Hey if you're keen on frying cash and funding any reason to do so, then that great but if you can't get a set of 310mm brakes to work then even a set of 350mm Evo brakes won't save you from installation error.
  5. Make sure you get a good dose pipe, also GTX turbos don't dose well due to their 11 blade compressor wheel design. 6+6 and 7+7 blade designs will dose very well. Using an alloy pipe over a stainless steel pipe will increase dose. Anyhow, running wider tyres doesn't always mean more grip. You're essentially reducing the contact patch pressure.
  6. Hardrace harden rubber ones are good. No squirm/less and they won't crumble like urethane after a certain age. You could go solid alloy but the road noise will be intense.
  7. You're missing stuff like Twin gates, twin scroll manifold, twin scroll turbo, ARP head studs, decent coil packs, and a hectic dose pipe. Then followed by a decent LSD, coilovers, hicas eliminator kit, traction rods, subframe bushes, etc. No point having oodles of power that you can put down then getting toasted by a Golf GTI.
  8. If all else fails, I can get them to you next week. DBA freight is $30 for a pair.
  9. Also T2 isn't available for Skylines, only come in T3 lol
  10. If you have told me earlier I could have organised DBA rotors for tomorrow. If you want, I'll check stock tomorrow and if they're in, I can arrange for you to pick up directly from their silverwater warehouse (if you're in Sydney, cant tell on mobile). Flick me an email at Johnny (at) trak-life.com
  11. do this, since you're in the US already.. would be cheap http://www.full-race.com/store/turbos/borgwarner-efr/borgwarner-efr-7064-turbo.html comes in T3 and bolts up, just need a new dump and a fancy looking intake If you were in Australia I would just say go a Hypergear turbo, even their high flow turbos in stock housing and all will happily shit out a comfy ~270kW on normal fuel.
  12. Yes, they're a horrible turbo. Get a Garrett GTX3071 or so.. or straight up go for an BW EFR
  13. Don't want to make your day any worse.. but buy a new turbo
  14. better not to run any relief valve.. just pump -> line -> filter -> rail 3x S15s I've tuned recently, I deleted all 3x relief valves.. pieces of shit, you add boost and it loses fuel pressure.
  15. need cams for carpark meets and JDMST EOMM, then enable 2-step
  16. Looks great Phil and I shuold be floating about at WTAC and we'll drop by to say hi
  17. that's really cool! did you just use those U bracket things (those brackets to hold up conduit) to attach it?
  18. Could be FMIC related as the pressure is dropping dramatically across the core.. so hot side could still be 22psi however cold side is 16psi (as an example). Try hooking up the pressure source from the cold side to your actuator and block off the pressure source (compressor side). And "if" it's hitting 22psi all the way, then you know your FMIC is playing silly buggers.
  19. however read into Intima SR pads
  20. Nope, if you pool or don't pool the fuel at the valve it's not going to make a difference.. as the air/fuel will be drawn down when required as a whole when the valve opens for the intake stroke and the piston "vacs" out the air/fuel then the valve shuts. That mixture is set now with the proportion of fuel you've commanded... Then once it's ready to boogie, the spark will ignite with the flame front starting closer to the spark plug side then extending down to build pressure thus the bang. Either way you're not going to make more power. Power comes from ignition timing and mixtures (of course other shit too like fuel octane, air density, air temperature ra ra ra).
  21. I do about 4000km per year so 9000km per year is plenty!
  22. I giggled like a little bitch on the phone. #truestory I still don't get how full comp can cost less than Just Car's 3rd Party with Fire and Theft. I'm happy it's cheaper, and the free road side assist is amazing, especially when I need to drive 100km+ each way to Wakefield.
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