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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. because budget conscious track build and they're fine... ARP 2000 for big power and boost. Since the head is coming off, might as well do value stem seals and also basic performance valve springs... RB25DET is prone to valve float once it gets some heat into it.. sometimes noticeable on the dyno after many pulls usually only noticed on the track.
  2. I would go ARP non 2000 studs if the head is coming off. Good clamp is good for keeping thr head and block together. Never know, one day you might have the urge to push out 350kw+ lol
  3. stainless hose clamp horn relay a few terminals 8ga power wiring an 8ga fuse holder and no, those issues are from shit installs... I run mine till the light goes on before it starts missing/surging on the track
  4. did you know, your flex sensor actually read fuel temperature too? And if you have a Zeitronix kit there's an earth trigger that allows it to switch between ethanol % to fuel temperature? waos
  5. If memory serves me right, they're a little less dustier than the QFM A1RM however will cop more abuse and not fade as quickly... and also much quieter! I haven't used Remsa so can't compare... if this helps, they're less dustier than Project MU HC800 / HC+
  6. I find the Intima SR squealed a little with the 296mm R33 disc - but no where as much as Project MU HC+ or those god awful QFM pads, however on the 324mm Brembo discs/calipers they don't squeal.. It might be the size/dimension that provides the right mix to create the squeal and amplify it. However going to the Type-D it's virtually silent for street use (as they don't bite when cold LOLOLOL) but on the track once they hit the right temperature they squeal a bit.
  7. Fap fap, Good on ya for making the move
  8. Oh mang you changed your alias LOL... I would have preferred to read "arab bought a GTR" lolololoo.
  9. wallah! however man, no idea how Brakes Direct are selling rotors at those prices!?!?!??!! it's like they're making $5~10 .. I just sent Matt a price list and then look at Brakes Direct thinking "yeah I'm cheaper for schizzle" then was shocked... they might have some kind of volume agreement
  10. If you are keen, shoot me a message. I can get DBA at very competitive prices also Intima SR pads Have helped many forum members.
  11. In performance cars I always recommend sealed batteries such as Optima Oddessey etc.
  12. Hope it isn't combustion gases in your coolant system. I have that with my car when I'm on the track with loads of boost for over taking cars lol. Pull over into the pits and you'll notice some black floaty bits in your overflow. Hope it's just air pockets or a dodgy cap. Tridon do a 300ZX cap in the 16psi flavour for our cars which is about $15 from super it's something CB16110 (double check first b4 buying).
  13. Not worth the time and money, put that money towards better cooling mods or a better turbo or flex setup.
  14. Was managing flat 10s then did 2x 9s but most of the day were 10s and 11s when no Hondas came off and held the track up. Unfortunately my go pro is cooked, however I wonder if the dash cam footage is any good so I'll trawl through that soon enough and post it up Prior to that I was doing 1m11s at an earlier track day. This time round all that was different was a GTR wing
  15. Delete the cat, and use a boost reference post intercooler
  16. What fmic are you using? I didn't see. Also there are ways to get the turbo on earlier like pulling timing out as it comes onto boost. If you had anything else I could help but I no longer have the dinosaur fc logit kit.
  17. " he had a much newer/more advanced ECU which may have helped him " That won't help spool, unless you're setting up anti-lag for launching on boost.
  18. a mate's mate in a pretty stock-ish WRX STi was doing consistent 1m6s all day... another Golf R with just lowered springs, reflash, exhaust and Nitto NT01s was doing consistent 10s till I told him to soften his ARB at the front and he managed a 9! Man, new cars are just too awesome.
  19. can't stop 300kW? I had stock 296mm R33 GTS-t brakes stop a car making 370kW on the track... I only upgraded to Brembo calipers because I wanted more stopping power for the track. Once again, user error and shit pads.
  20. UPDATE TIME CNUTS! So went back to Wakefield Park again yesterday and managed a 1m09.6s around the circuit. Only difference this time was a GT-R rear wing, set to 3/4 setting (nearly max angle) and only fekkk the rear end grip changed dramatically! No more dori dori across the track like a mad man. Everything else remain the same.
  21. Round 3, Fight! Lap time: 1m09.06 Timing method: Q-Starz Modifications Engine: Unopened RB25DET with a Hypergear SS2 CBB Version running 1.5bar on E85 Power: ~340kW (at 1.7bar she makes 372kW but that's asking for a grenading motor recipe) Suspension: MCA X-Race 10kg(f) and 7kg® + 24mm F&R Whiteline anti-roll Bars Tyres: 255/40/17 Nitto NT01 all round Brakes: Brembo up front with Intima Type-D Pads, Stock Rears with Intima SR Pads Body weight: 1500 kg? Only difference this time was a GT-R wing with the blade set at the 3rd setting. Surprisingly made a massive difference to rear end grip!
  22. User error. No way you're even going past the GT-t braking capabilities on the street. Many people use the same setup on their track cars and they seem to stop so there's no way you can possibly exceed their capabilities on the street. Hey if you're keen on frying cash and funding any reason to do so, then that great but if you can't get a set of 310mm brakes to work then even a set of 350mm Evo brakes won't save you from installation error.
  23. Make sure you get a good dose pipe, also GTX turbos don't dose well due to their 11 blade compressor wheel design. 6+6 and 7+7 blade designs will dose very well. Using an alloy pipe over a stainless steel pipe will increase dose. Anyhow, running wider tyres doesn't always mean more grip. You're essentially reducing the contact patch pressure.
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