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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. I don't think he was talking about how old the PC is wrt to whether the GIMP will run on it. I think he was saying that he is so "hella modern" (TM) that he uses his phone for everything and only pulls the laptop out on rare occasions. Which is his perogative. If my phone had a mouse and keyboard and 24" monitor, I'd use it for everything too.
  2. Yeah....a Neo would be far smarter. A VQ30DET Neo smarter again (except for the gearbox hassles). A VQ37 + turbos would be the smartest.
  3. No, they are not all the same. There are different bolt hole diameters for the CW. Many are the same, but there are odd differences. I can't tell you if your 3.3 wheel will fit.
  4. I like triples, but superchargers sound better. I like superchargers, but turbos are massively better at making power. In a world where NA engines are 6+ liters......~2.5L NA 6s are just missing something vital. Power. And torque. This is fixed with boost. The only old Skyline I would leave unmolested is a genuine GTR. All others are fit only for scrap or speed projects. Let's face it - the interior of any 1970s Jap car is no nice place to be, even if you drop cubic $$ on retrimming. They are just nasty, poorly laid out ergonomic nightmares with twinky instruments and noodle thin control stalks. You need something to take your mind off of all that when driving them. Hell.....my R32 is a nasty place to be inside of, and it's not as if it's worn out and stuffed. It is near factory perfect. It's a hell of a step up from an R31, which in turn was a step up from the 70s. Don't get me wrong - I'd have a 70's Skyline as a project (if I had the time/space/energy) in a heartbeat. I don't hate them. But I am very realistic about what they're good for.
  5. Just a V35 Skyline. That's pretty much the only identifier you need to buy parts for it. You can find everything you need for it on eBay, if you have to. You can get rubber or poly bushes from aftermarket suppliers without any pain (apart from $$ - there will need to be a lot of $$ spent to buy all that you need). That lower inner arm bush is so completely flogged. I have never seen anything like it. I hope you did not pay more than $1k for the car, because if the arsehat who used to own it has treated the chassis that badly, then the poor engine and tranny are likely to be 5 minutes from death. If it were me, I would immediately dismantle it and sell the parts. Probably safer than contemplate driving it!
  6. Was that deliberate?
  7. I didn't say "gauge" meaning "only the gauge". I said "gauge" meaning "all the parts of the factory gauge", including the sensor. Sensor/gauge. Doesn't matter which one of them is f**ked.
  8. Trust the factory gauge at your peril. It is probably not reading correctly. They are shit. Mine reads almost zero at hot idle. The oil pressure is actually fine. I don't even look at it. Haven't for 10 years. If you want to know what the oil pressure really is, you had best hook up another gauge and take the car for a drive/dyno run.
  9. All of that can be fixed too. There's no point in building one of these as a resto-original project. No-one cares about an old slow Skyline. An old fast Skyline is cool.
  10. Can't remember. Some place on South Rd near Hindmarsh (Adelaide) from what vague memories are left. The latest of these rebuilds was like, 15 years ago. There are specialist automotive air-con places (not the dodgy cheap-arse "who can fix me 'air?") chains, but proper specialists, in every major city. It's not exactly rocket surgery to do it. They just get stripped down and fitted with new seals, wobble plates, bearings, etc etc, according to how f**ked it is. Just need to have the knowledge and the parts. And possibly the ability to do any machining that might be needed to account for wear on the casings etc.
  11. Just that you can spend a bazzillion dollars on an L series and still not go fast, perhaps.
  12. RB is just an evolved L series. Front and rear sumps are available. Anything can be made to fit anywhere.
  13. Full engineering required everywhere (in Oz). Will (likely) require brake upgrade and testing at the minimum. Stock ECU or full emissions test also.
  14. The R32 is a legend car in Oz because it crushed the V8s in our touring car series. Was so successful it got itself banned and the rules of the competition changed to exclude anything but knuckle dragger cars. Australia is where the name Godzilla came from.
  15. Editing images on a phone...... and what the GIMP can do....... not in the same universe.
  16. I had the compressor from my VC Commodore, Alfa GTV and R32 rebuilt. All good.
  17. I'd just get the one you have rebuilt.
  18. I've been using the GIMP since about 1999. I walked in on my (16 yo) daughter using my computer on the weekend editing all the photos she'd taken using it (because faster than her laptop). Proud day.
  19. The R32 tunnel was not intended to swallow the 25DET gearbox. I struggled, and got it to go together. If you're desperate, make a 10-15mm thick spacer out of ABS plastic or similar, to fit between the boot and the tunnel.
  20. Engine height problems not a concern?
  21. That happens. Mine is like that. Mine was originally an auto.
  22. Can't tell you exactly why the engine plays up when you blip the throttle. Probably depends on which direction you have it maladjusted. Suffice to say, that the ECU needs to know where "closed" is and needs to know where "not closed" is (ie, everywhere else!) and uses that knowledge to decide whether to be on the idle maps or running on the main maps. Needless to say, it won't run well on the wrong map. You need to put the ECU into diagnostic mode and see what/if fault codes you have in there. The ECU will report on the TCS DTCs that affect it. Also, which TPS did you f**k with? The engine's one? Or the one on the TCS throttle?
  23. TPS would appear to be maladjusted. Should read ~0.45v at closed/idle.
  24. I would also point out that there is a full day's work involved in correctly setting up a fully adjustable rear end on a Nissan. On and off the alignment machine several times. Changing the length of the traction arm then checking the effect on bump steer then back onto the alignment machine to fix the upper arm length. Rinse and repeat. If you're paying someone to do this for you, you're paying a lot. I too have done a lot of this stuff myself. Not so much because I don't trust my aligner, but more so because of the time and cost associated with getting it done there. A starting measurement on the aligner, followed by going home and measuring the lengths of various arms and some simple trigonometry can tell you how long to set adjustable arms that will be correct to within a couple of points of a degree. Homemade bump steer gauge to minimise bump problems. Further twiddling of adjustables and possibly measuring camber with a spirit level or digital level and some more trig, all followed by return trip to the aligners to make sure that toe and camber are right.
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