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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. Aaahhhh....take the single wire temp sensor out at your great peril and misfortune. That one is for the ECU. The 2 wire runs the dash gauge.
  2. Effectively, yes. Although I would do it a bit more classy that just soldering it direct. I'd try to arrange it inside a suitable case with crimp connectors for the loom connection. But my point about scrounging one from another Nissan was that it should be the same* thing, meaning you don't have to stuff about except to put a loom plug back on the chopped wiring. * Maybe not the same housing - but hopefully the same electrically.
  3. Funny you should be in the US (permanently). That's where I am (temporarily). Was in the wilds of Wyoming and Utah yesterday. Southern Indiana today. Back to Utah in a couple of days. Then Wyoming again. None of this helps you, obviously........but......if you can find an early 90s Maxima or any similar crappy FWD up-spec Nissan from the same era, there's a decent chance that the external temp sensor is the same thing.
  4. Import wreckers anywhere and everywhere. Most front cuts probably just had these thrown away though, sadly. I'd help you out by going out and measuring the resistance of mine at a couple of temperatures so you could work out what it is (almost certainly a thermistor). But.....I'm on the other side of the planet from my car and will be so for more than a week. Return date still sufficiently vague that I won't even promise.
  5. Cheap alloy ones frequently do not fit without fiddling. Also, do not buy the really thick (50ish mm) ones because the fan will hit the stock shroud.
  6. Better get one then. It's a black plastic lump that is mounted on the rad support.
  7. Auto tranny cooling loop in rad tank does 2 things. 1, it helps too warm the oil up from cold. 2, it transfers tranny heat to the coolant & out to the atmosphere when it's hot. If you have a stock auto cooler in place, don't change anything.
  8. Yes it will. The AFM will simply read differently with different pipework up & down stream. And stick it up your arse with the "only want to hear from people who've done it". Some of us know this shit.
  9. They are still boaty. Nothing like as nice as a GTR, regardless of how much better than a plain one.
  10. In Nistune you can see the flag for VCT active as you drive around. Above idle with a little load and it is ON.
  11. And yet, that's how it seems all of your above posts read. Not a bad effort for a newbie to come in and take the mantle of prickiest poster, but there you go.
  12. Probably not misfiring. Could be, but probably not. The standard ECU gets really upset if you go over about 12 psi. First you get rich & retard. Then it starts boost cutting, which feels like a miss.....because it is....just a deliberate miss. As to why it's overboosting.....who knows? The factory boost "leak" through the solenoid might have been made a lot larger, which will raise the boost above the ~7 that it is supposed to run.
  13. GTS4 does not have 6x1 diff flanges. That's the GTR diff. GTS4 has the same 5 bolt flanges as the GTSt. And the ratio is not 4.3. It is 4.375. This is important, because the normal GTSt diff is 4.3 and they are not the same ratio. Most of these diffs have been gobbled up by GTR owners wanting shorter gears for their cars. What died on your diff? You can (and should) get aftermarket centres that are 5000000000000 times better than the shitty viscous centre in there. And you can buy CW&pinion sets. And you can buy bearings. So unless the housing it rooted, you can rebuild it.
  14. No. The R34 pump fits directly to the Neo....... I think the pulley and bracket mounts are different. You could use an R34 pump, but you'd no doubt have to sort out mounting it right and swapping the pulley.
  15. Well, yeah, obviously there were non-HICAS R32s. All the NAs, for example. Cefiros similarly. A lot of people just retain the rear pump and use it to pass fluid through a cooler. I just used the R34 pump that was on the Neo.....by far the best way to solve the pump problem!
  16. Just about any auto-electrician would be the right place to take it. It's probably the switch or the fuse anyway.
  17. + supercharger. Nice big Whipple.
  18. There is no power supply to the speed sensor. It generates the +/-1V signal when it turns. Follow my advice ref cont checking the wiring from there to the dash first. The VSS signal at the ECU is a product of the speed sensor and the speedo working. No point in looking for that signal until the speedo is working. The lack of ABS shouldn't affect it. The ABS uses the speed signal after it is produced. But does the car even have ABS? Does it have sensor rings at the front hubs? Does it have the ABS rig in the engine bay? The missing ABS modulw would be explained by the car never having it.
  19. Your plan is fine. And don't listen to anyone who tells you to ditch the plenum.
  20. Replace the broken bit, probably. Gauge head or cable. I had to put a new cable in mine because the top end broke.
  21. You can also damage it so that it won't "clip in". Put the car up on stands, run it in gear and see if the speedo works with you pushing the cable into the back of the speedo head manually.
  22. It should be the same shape as the end of the cable (ie, both square). If one is broken, then you have square plug in round hole, or vice versa.
  23. It's easy to break the little plastic square end on the drive cable or the receptacle for same in the speedo. Have a close look at both and see which one you broke.
  24. Fitment of caliper and pads on the rotors doesn't look right. That's what happens when they're not really fitted - just sat for e-fame photo op.
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