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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    Hmm. By contrast, the V720s I just put on replaced RE003. The Bridgeys did 16000 of the most boring and uninspiring kilometers I have ever driven. Lower levels of lateral and longitudinal grip than just about every tyre I have had in the last 15 years.
  2. GTSBoy
    Yeah, they're good. I couldn't get them when I wanted them a couple of weeks ago, so chose to try Kumho V720. Also very good. Better than the KU36 that they pretty much replace, and at a good price. We are spolit for choice on such tyres these days.
  3. GTSBoy
    There is no such thing as detonation at idle. That is mechanical shit banging into other mechanical shit.
  4. GTSBoy
    NissDataScan has been around for a long time and is the best thing for hooking up to Consult ECUs (other than proper scan tools & Consult handsets). I've never paid much attention to it, because I have a Nistune'd ECU (which I will get to later), so I don't know if it has any active test capability. I would hazard a guess that it does not have any active capability, because that's a brave step to take for a 3rd party developer. Reverse engineering the data stream coming out of an ECU is one thing, and non-destructive, but attempting to inject commands to make the ECU do things is a whole 'nother level of risk. I'm pretty sure that even the pro-grade scan tools like my bro-in-law's Snap-On device don't do much in the way of active tests. They just read signals and reset DTCs. If you put a Nistune board into an OEM ECU, then it provides you with all the diagnostics you could ever want, including some active test stuff, like stopping a single injector.
  5. GTSBoy
    I wish I had put a VQ into my R32 instead of a 25Neo. Love the RB....but the VQ is bigger & newer and makes more chooch.
  6. GTSBoy
    http://www.zombo.com/
  7. GTSBoy
    I just told you that the DMM won't see that signal.
  8. GTSBoy
    It's a boehm!
  9. GTSBoy
    O2 sensors get old and slow. The heaters also stop working and they don't then work when cold (ie at idle).
  10. GTSBoy
    I've done essentially the same as steppa, with the same result.
  11. GTSBoy
    3.5L > 2.6 L. More sense would be to swap in VQ37HR + boost.
  12. GTSBoy
    Shafts are piss easy. Fall out from the inside. Hubs/splines are obviously much more trouble. You need to dismantle all this to find out what is wrong with it before you go buying stuff though.
  13. GTSBoy
    Could be. The splines on the end of the shaft or in the hub are also possible. Just about all of that stuff is getting sloppy in these old jallopies now.
  14. GTSBoy
    ^ This.
  15. GTSBoy
    Go right ahead. I'm fairly confident I could outrun one on foot across an intersection.
  16. GTSBoy
    Changing plugs/gaps will not affect tune. Stumble on idle is usually a vacuum leak.
  17. GTSBoy
    No. A 1957 VW beetle would be faster.
  18. GTSBoy
    It seems like most of your cylinders are OK and a couple are little softer. There's a million things that could cause those differences.
  19. GTSBoy
    It's not rocket surgery. Work it out yourself. The PS circuit is dead simple. There are 3-4 things in it (depending whether you put the cooler into the return or not). Just hook them up. Following a DIY that does not work for your gear is a fool's errand.
  20. GTSBoy
    Fuel pump. AFM. FPR. Dirty injector. Blocked fuel filter. These are the first things to check. Same as in the 500000000000 other threads that start this way.
  21. GTSBoy
    How are you measuring the voltage? DMM? If so, then don't. You need an analog multimeter or a scope of some sort. DMMs can't see that sort of PWM signal. They're too slow.
  22. GTSBoy
    Bulb. I shall also refrain from saying passively aggressive nasty things. But really, this should be obvious. Have you even opened the bonnet to see? Dammit, I failed at avoiding saying passively aggressive things. Oh well.
  23. GTSBoy
    Um. What? The HICAS pressure line is completely separate from the power steering. When I did exactly what you're doing (but with a Neo), I simply removed everything to do with HICAS (the thing on the frame rail is a pair of solenoid valves, not a pump). With everything HICAS removed, the power steering pump simply connects to the rack via the original line (adapted at the pump end owing to being a different pump) and the return from the rack goes where it always did. That's it. And don't loop the cooler. Plumb it into the return line. You need the cooler.
  24. GTSBoy
    All the volts.
  25. GTSBoy
    I'd suggest a sticky piston on the LHF caliper.
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