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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. didn't happen then lol
  2. I'm not here to brand bash. But get Splitfire for plug and play without the headache is my advice.
  3. I suggest you research wisely on what I have highlighted.
  4. ^ touche.. I'm asian, so the inner tightarse comes out too.. but the lower back says no these days without a hoist...
  5. wow man... you never cease to amaze me... I'm a lazy cnut these days... I got rid of my mig, and last time I was so lazy I sent my car to a clutch shop to get the clutch replaced instead of doing it myself lol
  6. Wow man, that's amazing good on you for doing it all yourself.
  7. NT01 isn't really a street tyre, it is in fact barely legal as there's about 2mm of tread before it hits the indicator (well the 1st indicator). I run them on my car however it's 80% track 20% street use so I don't mind the useless wet weather grip and the crazy amounts of road noise. For a decent set of street tyres I would look at Nitto's INVO range or Bridgestone RE003.
  8. give Abe from Havoc Fabrications a visit, he has made plenty of "no hole" FMIC kits for S14/15 with a Proflow cooler for under $1k
  9. potentially, however I still prefer running aftermarket FPRs to reduce fuel pressure oscillating, unless you're on a r34 which has 2x dampers built in.
  10. Waos, too much sexies in a thread.
  11. run S15 injectors and bump up the base fuel pressure to 3.5bar using a good FPR such as a Turbosmart FPR 1200
  12. R34 sidemount is too small, yes people have said "it works" I made xyz power blah blah.. but, go measure the IAT and I'm sure it's not ideal especially for E85. If the R34 sidemount is a must, I would install a cooling fan on top and trigger it by boost.. so once the turbo makes +ve pressure, kick on the cooling fan... pretty simple to do Get a boost gauge with alarm/alert.. set the alarm to go off at 1+ psi , connect the output to a relay, then to the cooling fan..
  13. Another good reason why you should convert to a single twin scroll turbo setup as soon as you buy a GT-R
  14. also moving the cas does not change the timing on the PowerFC.. you need to sync what the PowerFC is telling the car to do... playing around with the CAS blinding will result in this scenario: PowerFC tells motor 15 Motor is actually at 25 Go on boost, and blow motor because you're 10 degrees more than what you're supposed to be at Yes, you will now say "but the PowerFC numbers are changing as I play with the CAS" - that is correct as you play with the cas your motor behaves differently and then jumps into a different cell which may have a timing value of 20 degrees.. that is what you're reading.
  15. I would use the R32 ECU over the Z32 ECU as it's more like for like.. Using the green led output to control the VCT OR the AC output (depending vehicle application). Yes people think the Nistune is a "hack" yet it has more features than a PowerFC, Microguess, etc. For less than a PowerFC you get: Full flex, with scaling Boost by ethanol content Launch control Basic engine protection strategies (coolant temp vs. engine RPM) Not to mention it runs flawlessly... all it needs is wideband o2 feedback and it's the perfect street ecu.
  16. If you guys need Nistunes I have a tuner license, this means I can get boards/installation done by Matt @ Nistune much cheaper than others
  17. you're an arsehole
  18. But everyone on facebook groups just want loads of power on cheap tyres, stock LSD so they have a reason to whinge about no traction and how when they roll into 3rd their wheels spin.
  19. Nooo, it's still a heap of shit. I hate the car.. it's rubbish.
  20. Just delete them, go full flex tune.. less emissions than a Prius.. but is it legal? no.
  21. Run some traction rods at the rear and extend them about 10mm each side. This effectively changes the arc of the suspension movement reducing camber and toe out ramp on suspension compression. Alternatively just raise the car till the control arms slightly point downwards (best) or completely flat (better).
  22. shhuuuuuuuuu baby, from what I gather the G3SAT will dose like a bawse (from watching Jason Ferren's R31 Drift Wagon). Brah plenty of brake fluid left ulleh, when ize put new pads in dat brake fluid will be le tits. (brake fluid low because of worn brake pads and air in the ABS system from when I did the Brembo brakes up front, was full till I kicked off the ABS a few times then bleed some fluid and never bothered to refill it)
  23. mateeeeeeeee I love bunnings Will be making a front splitter from marine ply.. will be solid, flexible enough and won't produce any "flutters" which can occur with shitty aluminium stance splitters. When there's enough air movement and it starts to flutter the entire splitter would rip off. Good explanation: Flutter is a dynamic instability of an elastic structure in a fluid flow, caused by positive feedback between the body's deflection and the force exerted by the fluid flow. In a linear system, 'flutter point' is the point at which the structure is undergoing simple harmonic motion - zero net damping - and so any further decrease in net damping will result in a self-oscillation and eventual failure. 'Net damping' can be understood as the sum of the structure's natural positive damping, and the negative damping of the aerodynamic force. Flutter can be classified into two types: hard flutter, in which the net damping decreases very suddenly, very close to the flutter point; and soft flutter, in which the net damping decreases gradually
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