GTSBoy

But, in these days of Arduino, surely that's a triviality.

No, and no.

Just install the new turbo and don't set the boost any higher and don't have it ramp as fast as it could and you should be able to live on the existing tune.

You're on your own then mate. You have ventured into foreign territory. If I had to guess, if there's no sign of burnt tracks from the injector pins, then you've likely killed the transistors that run the injectors. Odd to kill them all though....

^this

What ECU is it? R32 or Z32 ECU are the correct choices for RB25 and they don't take a Type 3 board. They are Type 2.

Sounds bad. Open the ECU up and look for burnt tracks or transistors connected to the injector pins.

You're on the north side Adam? Go see Brenton at Fours N More. He'll hate me for sending another dirty Nissan to him, but he should be able to sort you out.

Take it** to a brake workshop. Give it to them with a small handful of money (like, <$200 worth) and wait a couple of days. Presto, rebuildo. ** The booster.

Have you at least got Nistune in the ECU so you don't have to put up with fault codes from butchering the TCS? And what makes you think that there should be 12V? Most ECU sensors are run from 5V. Plug your R34 TB back into the loom and see what you see from that. Then go forward from there.

And what state is the charge at? Have you considered that it might have a leak and has let some gas out?

Same as every other such question. Get it inspected thoroughly. If it comes through that without any red flags, just buy it. None of them are going to be perfect. They're nearly 30 years old now. And whatever red flags come up, just pay accordingly.

You can buy this stuff just about anywhere. Ebay, Amayama, Kudos, Just Jap, etc etc. You are looking for bushes for your front upper arms and you are looking for HICAS rack ends (if you want to waste you money putting a useless system back into service) or a complete HICAS delete kit if you want to improve the car.

It's all SAU. What "other forum" are you talking about?

Look for the problem elsewhere. 0. Real zero vacuum and idle are incompatible.

Are you kidding? Flat piece of plate, maybe 5mm thick. Cut to shape. Drill holes. Job done?

ECM is ECU. so you'll find it where the ECU lives in any Nissan. MPS is a Mazda......

Although 265 is a little baggy for a 9" rim. I wouldn't do it except on a Torana.

Hammers fix this. Literally. Don't hit the end of the thread.

Nah, you can run GTR wheels on a GTSt, with only a tiny poke. They're just about perfect, actually.

If the brake booster is f**ked, as I suggest it is, then that is exactly the consequence you would expect.

You got it backwards. He's asking about putting skinny guards onto a GTR!

Yes and yes. Cooler obviously needs to be properly thermostated to avoid a huge waste of time. Oil plumbing can start to get a little complicated with the addition of all these things though.

My guess is unpleasantly loud. Have heard VQs that would have had at least a muffler delete, if not that and the decat, and they are ant-social.

The 200N of tension is the literal stretch tension in the belt. That's the tension that the spring in the tensioner should apply before you lock it up, and should therefore also be the same tension in the belt after it is locked up, until it stretches a bit. The 1/4 turn thing is going to vary according to the belt. Some might be a little more flexible than others. Just pushing straight on the belt should produce a little deflection, but not a lot, and you should be able to push pretty damn hard without the belt moving a lot. Beyond that, it's not really possible to do it up too tight unless you do the wrong thing with the hex key while tightening up the tensioner. You shouldn't be trying to add much force to what the spring provides.