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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Solid centre, that's why you kept blowing boxes!
  2. Started it on 14 month E85 lol... (dw cuz, has ethanol stabiliser in it) Primed the oil first till it dribbled out of the relocator, plugged in the CAS and to my surprise it actually fired! I roughly rescaled the injectors on my old map and flattened out the timing as I now have no idea where peak torque would/could be made on this motor. As of last night (after the car starting) all fluids are topped up and will take it for a light spin tonight. I've filled up the entire tank with 44L of 98RON, so might take it for a lap tonight and dump the oil before I start to push it a bit
  3. Install it post cooler, won't have to deal with the reversion issues (minor with R35 MAF) and looks nicer too in your engine bay
  4. might have to till the box goes boom lol... from there, well I am not sure.. these are my options: New OEM Box, use it till it goes boom again CD009 Conversion PPG helical set
  5. hahah well that motor was totes fuuarked, the bores were cooked the head was fuuarked too.. had engine bits and pieces holding some of the valves opened. Had to buy another motor! #neoforlyfe
  6. Overnight parts from Australia. This should help me blow the gear box faster! It already grinds 2nd, 3rd, 4th and the input shaft has heaps of free play.
  7. Me too I have a new motor, it is unfortunately built lol I blew (well Phil did) cylinders 1/5/6. Smashed a bunch of ring lands, filled the sump with metal, destroyed the head, and destroyed a fairly new turbo. Same as Matt, plenty of abuse and anti-lag launches LOL
  8. Another popular (modern) option now is to use the Platinum Racing R35 Coilpack kit. Keeps everything Nissan
  9. Lean at peak torque is not good. Could be fuel pressure related unless the tune is a bit..
  10. Noooooo it's drag life now
  11. They make silly amounts of spark and don't have issues like LS truck coils which at times like to fire early when you add the wrong dwell which can lead to you taking out a motor. Also who wants LS parts on their motor? Haha
  12. Step it up a game, GTX3584RS would be good fun. Or get a GTW3884, good on the wallet. Plenty of 2JZ boys are using them and making some decent HP with good response (no idea about transient throttle). @timmy_89 might be able to comment
  13. Don't see many fast and competitive GT-Rs at the track with twins. Most if not all RB powered GT-Rs at WTAC run singles. They run it for a reason.
  14. Trim part of the bonnet, if not a GReedy plenum would do the trick, however you'll lose some low-end due to the runner design. Alternatively if you have some time to burn, get an Otaku plenum (which looks like a Hypertune knock off). They're all made to order from China and shipped direct to you (tried to order one myself, told me it's 4x weeks to make) also MADCAT Industries has an indentical kit for sale too on eBay, just wait for those store wide sales and grab one for cheap. If you move to a Plazmaman plenum you'll still have the same issue as OEM. The Yez Racing boys are having the same issue, albeit in a S13.
  15. Nah don't do that. Plenty of good turbos on the market Of course like GT-RS turbos. Comes on at 5700rpm and quickly shift before you 1. Smash the limiter because you have a "great" powerband OR 2.shift too slowly and fall off boost. Amazing
  16. At the end of the day we are all playing with port injected motors. Spray pattern doesn't need to be 100% not does 100% perfect atomization. Just as long as the fuel doesn't dribble in and the correct amounts are injected. Regardless of perfect spray or perfect spray pattern, you'll still exhibit fuel pooling. Its not a direct injected motor.
  17. That too, but you could have combustion gasses aiding the oil vapour out too. Worth a shot, speak to your mechanic or tuner and see how you go
  18. maybe do the valve stem seals and see how you go
  19. Make sure you source the Yaris coils yourself, as the "kit" ones often come with generic Yaris coils.. Buy the loom/bracket, but better off getting brand new coils from Toyota OR remove them from a wrecked Yaris. Sump wise, just get an ASR one - great quality and you have options for trap doors/baffles. I had one made up specifically for my AWD NEO motor to fit a RWD R33. They provided a brand new pick up, and welded up the sump too suit. If you're injectors are 3/4~1/2 height (without the extensions) then you can re-use it on the NEO intake manifold without any fancy injector bosses. I suggest you get a decent oil pump OR alternatively get billet gears by Spool to suit the pump.
  20. take it all, $200 Stock Used Parts: Cams (IN/EX) Cam Belt Sprocket & 2x plates (sits on crank) Cam Idler/Tensioner pulleys Valve Springs & Retainers Head Bolts, washers (aka head studs) Pistons, Connecting Rods (complete) Air Conditioning Pump & bracket Stock injectors, rail, FPR, dampener Stock OEM Brand New Parts: Genuine Nissan RB25DET Head Gasket Genuine Nissan RB25DET Turbo Outlet Elbow & Dump Gasket Genuine Nissan RB25DET Exhaust Manifold Gasket
  21. Ooots! Stellar result! When you get really bored weld up an external to your manifold and make even more power!
  22. Or run some laggy twins and blow the 2nd turbo
  23. Dose pipe installed, should dose pretty good Last night, connected up all of the harness, re-pinned the CAS connector, and installed a new VCT plug to suit the R34 NEO head. Next big challenge is to make all the oil lines for the oil relocator and oil cooler.
  24. I think Andy from Adaptronic has, I believe they even used a dedicated compressed gas of some sort to control boost. I read it a while back on the Guild of EFI Tuners.
  25. R33 Plaz plenum won't fit the NEO lower section of the Intake Manifold - however just did what I did and move the entire R33 intake plenum over. Your VCT plug will also need to be replaced, and the CAS will need to be re-pinned in reverse order if you're going from metal CAS to plastic CAS. If your car already had a plastic CAS (1997 and 1998 R33s) then no need to do anything.
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