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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. He had a Haltech, he removed it because he thought the PowerFC is better. FWIW, my microwave at home has more features and computing power than a PowerFC.
  2. send me your map again, I'll have look if there's some silly business going on
  3. nice exhaust system looks like a few people with the same idea as I had initially.. still a cat in there? Can you post up a log from the halaltech when you come on boost say in 3rd or 2nd, etc.? I suspect could be timing related as there's a table that allows you to retard timing as you come on/off the throttle to make the transients smoother.
  4. R35 AFM might tap out unless you run it in a larger pipe say 3.5" or run it on the cold side before the TB. I did a S15 running a R35 AFM, although in a 3" pipe without any air straighteners installed and it was hitting 4.8V each time it came on boost for a car only making ~240kW. I prefer the HPX version of the R35 card as it supports more air flow in the same pipe.
  5. He has an auto, would not surprise me.if there are parts of the map that have timing pulled out where the gear changes happen.
  6. Is there a chance your car is misfiring coming onto boost or timing is so retarded EGTs go through the roof? If so youll get a spike as you're describing.
  7. You should not use the IAT off the R35 sensor (that's if you're pre turbo).
  8. The only time I think twins would truly work is if they were both mounted on proper manifolds, externally gated x2, intercooler x2, plenum x2 (1-3 & 4-6). That way there's no turbulence or turbos "fighting" to push into one cooler pipe/core. By that time, effort and money you're better off with a big fat modern twin scroll single.
  9. Would be a good set up but if you're looking to make over the 400kW Mark I would seriously jam a bigger rear on. Once I outgrow my turbo I may look along those lines however a GTX3576 with a 1.0x ish rear and twin scroll everything - blah blah blah lol
  10. It's because it's a complete bolt on solution, yes a GTX3071 "might" be bolt on, but you still need a new intake new water/oil lines and by the time you're done that's nearly double the price of a Hypergear. Most GTS-t owners: are on a budget usually do the work themselves because of point 1 want power fast want not so much lag want plug and play If someone had a built motor, and wanted 400kW+ etc. said they wanted power/response for roll racing/track work then I wouldn't recommend a Hypergear. There are other threads where I've mentioned GTX3576s or EFR8374s, etc. Just to be clear, I am not sponsored by Hypergear nor is there any financial benefit for me in recommending the brand.
  11. You're better off with a Hypergear turbo to be honest. His latest high flow will get you close to 300kW on 98RON in the stock location, stock dump, etc. (Just need the right supporting mods). On E85 or WMI you'll easily go 350kW+
  12. Must admit, your car doses well... 10 points.
  13. Went yalla habibi spec, 18x9.5 +22. Has some homosex 245 wide tyres, once the car is running again OR when I decide to put a motor and gearbox into it I will get the guards cut/reshaped to allow 265 semis to fit under the guards and look stock. No gay stretch no gay camber. And funny enough, the Rays 57S aka Gram Lights are indeed lighter than the OEM GT-R wheels. Thank you sir, need to make the car look good before it runs lol
  14. I'll setup anti-lag to shoot flames and scare hondas. Will make you happy.
  15. GTW3476 won't come on at where you're expecting. Remember the RB25 is an outdated 2.5L port injected low compression motor.
  16. Hypergear ATRG3SAT would easily do that on 98RON and give you a bit of headroom in future if you ever decide to spray some WMI or go E85. Another question before you start throwing out turbo makes/models etc. is when you want the turbo to come? yes any big turbo can "make" the numbers you want but when is another question? No point slapping a biggish turbo on your car to make only 300kW and have it come on late - very american mentality. "oh be dayem, it makes 500hp on a mustang dyno, and I dont' mind the lag because I'm american"
  17. If it is purely for street use and not used in a competitive motorsports environment, then 300kW is plenty for a car with basic suspension modifications (i.e. a set of coilovers) and the factory LSD. 270~300kW is very achievable with a small budget and will be "fast" enough and "fun" enough. Once you start go to beyond that, expenditure increases exponentially where as before that it is linear some what lol.
  18. Also it's not the rods you worry about, it's the ring lands. They will break and take out your motor with that amount of power with time.
  19. My car has been dead quiet for years, albeit a bit too quiet. The exhaust cut out will be used on the track, roll racing, etc. Pretty much whenever the car is used in a competitive nature. I plan to have the cut out just after the mid muffler so it won't sound shit especially the external is plumbed after the cat into the mid muffler entry.
  20. I'm thinking of an electronic exhaust cut out valve, for extra kWs. The whole varex muffler is good but you restrict flow when it's in stealth mode. Start off with a dead quiet good flowing system and add a cut out where you want. Current exhaust is as quiet as a stock bogandore SS. 3.5" and runs a cat, a mid muffler, a resonator and into a 2.75" Jasma cert choker HKS Muffler (will be removed EOY).
  21. When a basic Hypergear turbo, low mounted on a stock modded manifold is making 1.8bar at 4200rpm you start to wonder
  22. Needs moar blast pipes ulleh like Reinhard styles. Much sex.
  23. 1.2bar at 5600rpm.. That's not really remarkable to be honest.
  24. Hahaha man the rust inside!
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